Gary Lewis Posted April 14 Share Posted April 14 Progress is Gooooood! Yes, progress is GOOD! And you are making progress, little by little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 14 Author Share Posted April 14 Yes, progress is GOOD! And you are making progress, little by little. Spent the afternoon bringing the cab down. Everything went smoothly and I'm thankful for that. I don't think I'll ever tip a cab back that way again because I was N-E-R-V-O-U-S. If there ever was a next time, I would lift the cab up, roll the frame out, lower the cab to the ground, and THEN flip it. But it's done and I'm happy to have the cab back down where it belongs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted April 14 Share Posted April 14 But it's done and I'm happy to have the cab back down where it belongs. Cooool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 19 Author Share Posted April 19 But it's done and I'm happy to have the cab back down where it belongs. Cooool! Started cutting out the rust from my passenger kick panel tonight. First impressions, it's not that bad. It definitely will require some ingenuity since the kick panels have layered joints between the floor, kick panel, and the rockers at the bottom, but I should be able to work with that. The cab mount box is untouched, and it looks like the inside of the kick panel is untouched as well. The crud in the second photo is some sort of foam that I assume Ford shot up into that area. I've found it in all four corners of the cab now. Not really sure what the purpose was, but should I do something similar when I piece all of this back together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 Started cutting out the rust from my passenger kick panel tonight. First impressions, it's not that bad. It definitely will require some ingenuity since the kick panels have layered joints between the floor, kick panel, and the rockers at the bottom, but I should be able to work with that. The cab mount box is untouched, and it looks like the inside of the kick panel is untouched as well. The crud in the second photo is some sort of foam that I assume Ford shot up into that area. I've found it in all four corners of the cab now. Not really sure what the purpose was, but should I do something similar when I piece all of this back together? Spent half of today knocking out my lower fender mounts. This is a bricknose truck, so the lower fender mounts were different than those on a bullnose. I had to modify the lower mounts to accept the vertical bolt, so I welded a plate to the bottom of the cut-down bricknose bracket and then drilled and reamed the hole for the bolt to pass through. Everything test fit well and I have plenty of adjustment. Bullnose mount: My modified bricknose mount: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 Started cutting out the rust from my passenger kick panel tonight. First impressions, it's not that bad. It definitely will require some ingenuity since the kick panels have layered joints between the floor, kick panel, and the rockers at the bottom, but I should be able to work with that. The cab mount box is untouched, and it looks like the inside of the kick panel is untouched as well. The crud in the second photo is some sort of foam that I assume Ford shot up into that area. I've found it in all four corners of the cab now. Not really sure what the purpose was, but should I do something similar when I piece all of this back together? any chance that you have another cab to source the panels from . i dont know of a source of patch panels for the inner area of the vertical/ inner rocker area. floor pan, and outer rockers yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 any chance that you have another cab to source the panels from . i dont know of a source of patch panels for the inner area of the vertical/ inner rocker area. floor pan, and outer rockers yes. I did at one point, but I think these areas were rusted out on that one too. I have old rusted-out doors that I have been using for patch panels and have just been hand-forming the sheet metal from those to fit and will likely do the same for the kick panel area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 Spent half of today knocking out my lower fender mounts. This is a bricknose truck, so the lower fender mounts were different than those on a bullnose. I had to modify the lower mounts to accept the vertical bolt, so I welded a plate to the bottom of the cut-down bricknose bracket and then drilled and reamed the hole for the bolt to pass through. Everything test fit well and I have plenty of adjustment. Bullnose mount: My modified bricknose mount: Good work, Shaun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 Good work, Shaun! Thanks Gary! Feels good to check things off the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 29 Author Share Posted April 29 Good work, Shaun! Thanks Gary! Feels good to check things off the list. This weekend's project was to start working on plugs for the doors where the old mirrors were. The doors on my truck are from a 95-97 with the extra support at the bottom (my cab is a bricknose cab which is why the doors fit). They originally came with the aero mirrors, and none of the holes line-up with any mirror offered on a bullnose or bricknose truck. There are also extra holes for bracing and for who knows what else. I spent the weekend creating plugs and then one by one welding them in. The three smaller holes in the door are for the bullnose mirrors I will be installing (Type 9 2-position). You can see how they're lower than what was there for the aeronose mirrors. I specifically sought out doors from a 1992-1996 because it's easier to find doors without the lower rivnuts for type 9 mirrors. The 2-position Type 9 mirrors have three bolts at the top and bottom, and none of the bolts on the bottom line up with the normal Type 9 mirrors. I wanted to be able to make my own holes for the mirrors where I need them to be with my own rivnuts. I still need to fill in one more hole, but I was running out of daylight and still needed to make the plug. I'll knock out the driver's side this week as well, and then I'll have to do a little body work to even everything out. No thick gobs of bondo like my old doors though. Mirrors I'm installing: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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