Rear Brake Drums

[baddog8it]

I'm planning on doing a full brake job and am making the assumption that my beast can use new drums and rotors.

This work is being accelerated due to the fact that it feels like my brakes are staying partially engaged after I remove my foot from the brake pedal. I've also noticed a drop in my mpg, although this could be more due to the cold weather (both kicked in about the same time). After drives, I've checked the wheel temps and feel nothing out of the ordinary. It appears that MAYBE the brakes are letting loose once I start moving again.

I'm trying to save myself the trouble of tearing everything down, surveying to determine which parts are needed, and then reassembling, only to take it back apart later after the parts arrive. (this is my daily driver)

When shopping for rear drums, many of the parts on my favorite parts web site mentions 10.25 ring gear. I have no idea what my ring gear size is. What info I have gleaned off of my differential is that it has a 3.54 ratio. Looking at other info on this (fantastic) website tells me that my rear end could be one of eight different models. I started researching each of these 8 models, but I was getting nowhere fast - not finding anything telling me the size of a ring gear.

Here's the digits that I've gotten off of my differential:

3 54 VE17A YA

60 247 1

I do plan on adding a camper in the near future (undecided on a truck slide-out or a pull behind - what appears in the local used market will dictate), so I'm leaning towards heavy duty components (vs economy or daily driver).

Any sage advice?

[Rembrant]

I think that's a Dana isn't it?

Can you post a picture of your certification label?

Or tell us what the letters/numbers are under "Axle".

 

[baddog8it]

I think that's a Dana isn't it?

Can you post a picture of your certification label?

Or tell us what the letters/numbers are under "Axle".

I don't have a certification label. Now that it's mentioned, I need to contact Ford and see if they can get me one. I did get a build date from them, but didn't know at the time to ask for a build sheet.

I'll have to wait until I can access my pictures at home to give you any more info on the differential/axle tag.

Going off of the 3.54 ratio, I figure it's one of the following:

Ford B3 Dana 5.3M Limited Slip

Ford 33 Dana 6.25M

Ford G3 Dana 6.3M

Ford 73 Dana 6.3M

Ford 43 Dana 7.4M

Ford D3 Dana 7.4M Limited Slip

Ford F3 Dana 8.2M Locking

Ford 63 Dana 8.2M

[Rembrant]

I don't have a certification label. Now that it's mentioned, I need to contact Ford and see if they can get me one. I did get a build date from them, but didn't know at the time to ask for a build sheet.

I'll have to wait until I can access my pictures at home to give you any more info on the differential/axle tag.

Going off of the 3.54 ratio, I figure it's one of the following:

Ford B3 Dana 5.3M Limited Slip

Ford 33 Dana 6.25M

Ford G3 Dana 6.3M

Ford 73 Dana 6.3M

Ford 43 Dana 7.4M

Ford D3 Dana 7.4M Limited Slip

Ford F3 Dana 8.2M Locking

Ford 63 Dana 8.2M

Is there any chance the 60_247_1 you posted above is actually 605247-1?

That shows up as the BOM for a 1985 F350 Dana 70 with 3.54 gears...

605247 FORD 70 REAR 1985 F-350 CHASSIS – 70U

Somebody else on here might be able to confirm the ring gear diameter of the Dana 70. Or Dr. Google may know.

[Rembrant]

Here's the digits that I've gotten off of my differential:

3 54 VE17A YA

60 247 1

If your diff tag looks like the ones below, it kind of gives you an idea of where the numbers sit, and what they are...

The 3 54 is the R&P.

The VE1&A YA is the assembly number and suffix

The 60 247 1 is going to be the BOM (Bill Of Materials) which we assume is actually 605247-1? (Guessing)

It must be an open diff since there is no "L-S" indicated.

 

[85lebaront2]

I don't have a certification label. Now that it's mentioned, I need to contact Ford and see if they can get me one. I did get a build date from them, but didn't know at the time to ask for a build sheet.

I'll have to wait until I can access my pictures at home to give you any more info on the differential/axle tag.

Going off of the 3.54 ratio, I figure it's one of the following:

Ford B3 Dana 5.3M Limited Slip

Ford 33 Dana 6.25M

Ford G3 Dana 6.3M

Ford 73 Dana 6.3M

Ford 43 Dana 7.4M

Ford D3 Dana 7.4M Limited Slip

Ford F3 Dana 8.2M Locking

Ford 63 Dana 8.2M

Easiest way to tell, first was the truck a cab and chassis or a complete vehicle? Second, have you tried removing the rear drums yet? If your rear drum and hub are a single assembly then you have a Dana rear, if the drums are removable without disassembling the hub, then you have the Ford/Sterling 10.25". This was introduced in 1985 on the pickups, cab and chassis models continued the Dana rear.

[baddog8it]

Easiest way to tell, first was the truck a cab and chassis or a complete vehicle? Second, have you tried removing the rear drums yet? If your rear drum and hub are a single assembly then you have a Dana rear, if the drums are removable without disassembling the hub, then you have the Ford/Sterling 10.25". This was introduced in 1985 on the pickups, cab and chassis models continued the Dana rear.

Now this is starting to make sense...

I believe that the truck has always been a full/complete vehicle (not 100% sure, but would be willing to bet money on it).

No, have not tried removing the rear drums yet.

If it matters any, although it is a 1985 model, it was actually produced on 3 Oct 1984.

[Gary Lewis]

Now this is starting to make sense...

I believe that the truck has always been a full/complete vehicle (not 100% sure, but would be willing to bet money on it).

No, have not tried removing the rear drums yet.

If it matters any, although it is a 1985 model, it was actually produced on 3 Oct 1984.

I assume that you've checked this page out: Driveline:Axles & Differentials and then the Rear Axles & Differentials tab.

That shows the pic below, which shows where you should be able to find info on the diff. Is that where you got the info? I think the "where" might help us determine what it is.

[Ford F834]

The fact that it is a 3.54 ratio indicates to me that it is a Dana axle. The Ford/Sterling 10.25 would be 3.55, not 3.54 based on the math of ring to pinion teeth.

The drum, therefore, will be mounted behind the hub (instead of slipping on over the wheel studs). They are a pain to remove, since you must first pull the inner axle then the giant nut that retains the wheel bearing. You might want to buy the large socket for this before you start the job. A lot of shade tree mechanics use the chisel method, but it is not a best practice... at all. It is, I believe, only available in 3/4” drive so you may need the adapter down to 1/2” drive depending on your tool set. I wish I remembered the socket size off the top of my head but I don’t. I will see if I can find mine and report back. Be sure you have wheel bearing grease on hand, as well as rtv silicone to seal the axle flange against the hub.

The drums are probably a bit pricey to replace “just to be safe”. I fully understand not wanting the down time but I would wait and look at them before assuming they need replaced. They might be okay, or just need turning. If you do buy them in advance, consider getting them locally and ask if they can be returned if not needed. Buy the drum brake hardware kit and apply the lube. When I researched the different pad types, I decided on semi metallic. The ceramic were higher performance for single hard stops or race applications, but semi metallic had better heat build up and brake fade characteristics. They are also not as hard, and give you better life out of the rotors and drums. They do produce a lot of dust, however. The cheap economy line organic pads have a spongier feel, don’t stop as effectively, suffer much more from heat build up / brake fade and have the shortest life. Avoid those.

[Ford F834]

The fact that it is a 3.54 ratio indicates to me that it is a Dana axle. The Ford/Sterling 10.25 would be 3.55, not 3.54 based on the math of ring to pinion teeth.

The drum, therefore, will be mounted behind the hub (instead of slipping on over the wheel studs). They are a pain to remove, since you must first pull the inner axle then the giant nut that retains the wheel bearing. You might want to buy the large socket for this before you start the job. A lot of shade tree mechanics use the chisel method, but it is not a best practice... at all. It is, I believe, only available in 3/4” drive so you may need the adapter down to 1/2” drive depending on your tool set. I wish I remembered the socket size off the top of my head but I don’t. I will see if I can find mine and report back. Be sure you have wheel bearing grease on hand, as well as rtv silicone to seal the axle flange against the hub.

The drums are probably a bit pricey to replace “just to be safe”. I fully understand not wanting the down time but I would wait and look at them before assuming they need replaced. They might be okay, or just need turning. If you do buy them in advance, consider getting them locally and ask if they can be returned if not needed. Buy the drum brake hardware kit and apply the lube. When I researched the different pad types, I decided on semi metallic. The ceramic were higher performance for single hard stops or race applications, but semi metallic had better heat build up and brake fade characteristics. They are also not as hard, and give you better life out of the rotors and drums. They do produce a lot of dust, however. The cheap economy line organic pads have a spongier feel, don’t stop as effectively, suffer much more from heat build up / brake fade and have the shortest life. Avoid those.

I have a 2-3/8” socket, 3/4” drive reduced to 1/2” drive that worked on my 1968 F250 (Dana 60 rear) and also fit my slick body with a Dana 60 rear out of a 1973 F250. I am guessing it would be the same for a 1985 Dana 60. I don’t know if this will fit my sterling 10.25 but I’m hoping it will...