Edelbrock AVS2 Carburetor Has Annular Boosters!

[LARIAT 85]

Edelbrock is REALLY raving about the new annular boosters on their new AVS2 carburetors. For those of you who do not know, FORD engineers came up with the annular boosters back in the late 1950s and used them in their Autolite 2100/4100 and later Motorcraft 2150 carburetors, which is what our trucks came with. Even the later Motorcraft Holley 4180 used them in their primaries.

The video shows the difference annular boosters make very clearly. I have been saying how much better the annular discharge booster design is for years, and now even Edelbrock seems to think so. This should be another great option for someone who would like to purchase a new carburetor for their truck.

All they need now is a thermostatic choke, and they may very well have the best aftermarket carburetor ever!

 

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, Rick. I've seen the video and would like to try the new carb, which isn't priced too badly by the way.

And, you can embed a Youtube video here. Just hit the Share button on Youtube, copy the code, and then hit the Embed button here and paste the code between the ">" and the "

And, it doesn't work.

And, now it does.

[Quarterwave]

I have an AVS2, 650 cfm on my truck.

[Gary Lewis]

I have an AVS2, 650 cfm on my truck.

So, where's the how-I-like-it report?

[Quarterwave]

So, where's the how-I-like-it report?

Haha - not much to compare it to, unfortunately Gary.

I changed so much with the engine, it's a different animal compared to what it was stock (well worn 351W HO).

From the limited driving I've done so far, it starts first turn of the key after two pumps of the accelerator but still takes a minute or two to warm up from a cold start. Otherwise, the engine will stall.

It seems to idle nice in light traffic with the A/C on, but I have a lumpy cam, so that's hard to tell.

Throttle response is good and there don't seem to be any flat spots, but since it's pulling a heavy truck (roughly 6,000 lbs), it's not that noticeable.

In all honestly, it was a PITA to setup the throttle linkage and kick down - it's marketed as a "drop right in" application. To me, having to fabricate brackets etc... is not "drop right in", but maybe that's to be expected and I'm just being picky.

I also had to shorten the long bolt that holds the air filter onto the top of the carburetor - otherwise it wouldn't tighten up, and it comes with a label to NOT run E85 or gas with any ethanol, so I have to find stations that sell marine fuel.

However, out of the box it did idle nicely etc...

What else should I look for and I'll be happy to add whatever else I can.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Haha - not much to compare it to, unfortunately Gary.

I changed so much with the engine, it's a different animal compared to what it was stock (well worn 351W HO).

From the limited driving I've done so far, it starts first turn of the key after two pumps of the accelerator but still takes a minute or two to warm up from a cold start. Otherwise, the engine will stall.

It seems to idle nice in light traffic with the A/C on, but I have a lumpy cam, so that's hard to tell.

Throttle response is good and there don't seem to be any flat spots, but since it's pulling a heavy truck (roughly 6,000 lbs), it's not that noticeable.

In all honestly, it was a PITA to setup the throttle linkage and kick down - it's marketed as a "drop right in" application. To me, having to fabricate brackets etc... is not "drop right in", but maybe that's to be expected and I'm just being picky.

I also had to shorten the long bolt that holds the air filter onto the top of the carburetor - otherwise it wouldn't tighten up, and it comes with a label to NOT run E85 or gas with any ethanol, so I have to find stations that sell marine fuel.

However, out of the box it did idle nicely etc...

What else should I look for and I'll be happy to add whatever else I can.

It sounds like it is working nicely. It idles well and doesn't have flat spots. But, it may need a bit more choke - loosen the three screws holding the choke's heater down and turn it clockwise 1 notch and then snug the screws down. That should give you enough more choke that it will pull sooner w/o stumbling when cold.

As for what else, an MPG reading would be nice. Yes, you have a lumpy cam and a heavy truck so it won't be stellar, but it would be interesting to see what it can do with some highway driving.

[Quarterwave]

It sounds like it is working nicely. It idles well and doesn't have flat spots. But, it may need a bit more choke - loosen the three screws holding the choke's heater down and turn it clockwise 1 notch and then snug the screws down. That should give you enough more choke that it will pull sooner w/o stumbling when cold.

As for what else, an MPG reading would be nice. Yes, you have a lumpy cam and a heavy truck so it won't be stellar, but it would be interesting to see what it can do with some highway driving.

Hi Gary,

Ok, thanks for the tip re the choke.

In the past 6 months, I haven't been able to run the truck long enough to go through a full tank of gas, so I'm not sure of the mileage. However, if I ever get to that point before I get fed up and sell it, I'll be sure to update this thread.

[Gary Lewis]

Hi Gary,

Ok, thanks for the tip re the choke.

In the past 6 months, I haven't been able to run the truck long enough to go through a full tank of gas, so I'm not sure of the mileage. However, if I ever get to that point before I get fed up and sell it, I'll be sure to update this thread.

Fed up? Sell it? What's the problem this time?

[Quarterwave]

Fed up? Sell it? What's the problem this time?

Yeah, I've spent more time fixing this truck than driving it (every weekend for the past year) unfortunately and it's just wearing me out. I'm disappointed as the common opinion of these trucks seems to be that they are bullet proof.... just not in my case.

For example, I just took it for a drive around the block last weekend to keep things moving until I can get the new caster/camber parts that have enough movement to align the front end (now that it has a lift, the factory adjustment isn't enough).

When I get home, oil is dripping from the power steering box which dropped oil all over my driveway (not good when an HOA is involved) and engine oil is coming from somewhere - drips were on the top side of the oil filter and also coming from the back of the engine.

I was so ticked off, I just threw some cardboard under the truck to catch the oil and then went inside.

So, normally that's likely to be a leaking valve cover gasket hopefully (keeping in mind, they are Edelbrock covers on Edelbrock heads that I bought new and have less than 25 miles on them) and probably a rear main seal... I just don't have the facility at home to do these repairs and local hack mechanics are charging $125 an hour and want at least 10 hours to do the work... furthermore, most don't even know how to work on these trucks as they are all trained to work on newer vehicles (if they have any training at all) and end up learning on my truck and charging me for the lesson... Then, my truck comes back from each shop covered in crap, the interior dirty and so on.

All of which just gets be bummed out, which sucks.

Sorry to vent here, Gary, I'm just feeling defeated right now.

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, I've spent more time fixing this truck than driving it (every weekend for the past year) unfortunately and it's just wearing me out. I'm disappointed as the common opinion of these trucks seems to be that they are bullet proof.... just not in my case.

For example, I just took it for a drive around the block last weekend to keep things moving until I can get the new caster/camber parts that have enough movement to align the front end (now that it has a lift, the factory adjustment isn't enough).

When I get home, oil is dripping from the power steering box which dropped oil all over my driveway (not good when an HOA is involved) and engine oil is coming from somewhere - drips were on the top side of the oil filter and also coming from the back of the engine.

I was so ticked off, I just threw some cardboard under the truck to catch the oil and then went inside.

So, normally that's likely to be a leaking valve cover gasket hopefully (keeping in mind, they are Edelbrock covers on Edelbrock heads that I bought new and have less than 25 miles on them) and probably a rear main seal... I just don't have the facility at home to do these repairs and local hack mechanics are charging $125 an hour and want at least 10 hours to do the work... furthermore, most don't even know how to work on these trucks as they are all trained to work on newer vehicles (if they have any training at all) and end up learning on my truck and charging me for the lesson... Then, my truck comes back from each shop covered in crap, the interior dirty and so on.

All of which just gets be bummed out, which sucks.

Sorry to vent here, Gary, I'm just feeling defeated right now.

So sorry that you are having those problems. That's really a shame. That's the feeling that Vernon had when he was trying build Big Blue up. No one appeared to have a clue how to fix it.

Remind you where you are?