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Wiring Diagrams 1981 F100


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Well just a quick update drove the truck to work Monday morning no problem cranking what so ever. Got off that evening motor just spins over not firing messed with it a little more nothing just spinning over. Head on home Monday evening after catching a ride and look over the wiring diagrams head back to work Tuesday and going to try jumping some things to see if it will crank. First tried jumping straight from battery to batt side of coil while cranking still just spinning over. Tried just putting the switch in the run position and jumping across the solenoid so the switch would not have to be moving still the same result. Tried checking the 12 volts that goes to the ignition module red/bl wire while cranking was showing voltage at that time. Swapped ignition boxes once more just to see if that made a difference still just spin over. Plugged back up the one still mounted on the fender and messed with the connections as it was spinning over. It sounded like a time or two it wanted to crank but did not. Running out of ideas to keep trying after staying after work late I decided I would just have it towed to the house Wednesday. Meet tow truck driver in the parking lot and he ask what is going on with it need a jump or something else. I told him it would just spin over but not firing and I told him just a sec and I will show you. Well what do you know I open the door reach in give it a quick start to show him and it cranks like brand new. Turned it off tried it again cranked just soon as you touch the switch. I cranked it once more back it out of the spot pulled it up to his truck cut it off let him load it and take it to the house. Got home last night cranked and drive it about 8 miles or so working like brand new again. I guess now instead of trying to get it to work I will have to try and not get it to work to try and figure this aggravating problem out.

That has to be frustrating! At least it is now starting, but it is like driving a time bomb - you feel like it is going to fail to start every time you try. :nabble_smiley_cry:

You don't have a signature so I don't know what the truck is. But if it has an electric fuel pump then it may be a problem where the pump isn't running.

How 'bout creating a signature so we don't have to ask?

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That has to be frustrating! At least it is now starting, but it is like driving a time bomb - you feel like it is going to fail to start every time you try. :nabble_smiley_cry:

You don't have a signature so I don't know what the truck is. But if it has an electric fuel pump then it may be a problem where the pump isn't running.

How 'bout creating a signature so we don't have to ask?

Yes I agree it is frustrating its like I can't trust it but not sure what to replace when it starts like new now. It is a mechanical fuel pump. This truck originally came with a 255 V8 but has had a 302 in since before I ever owned it. It has none of the smog equipment what so ever left on it. It is down to the very basics of what is needed to run with the Duraspark II ignition system that was original. Could the distributor itself cause this issue? I know the negative lead for the coil comes out of the ignition module but does the distributor still control when the coil receives the ground to fire like in the old points systems?

7020620_orig.thumb.jpg.5fe95f122fa07f636c9f8a9526e8c800.jpg

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Yes I agree it is frustrating its like I can't trust it but not sure what to replace when it starts like new now. It is a mechanical fuel pump. This truck originally came with a 255 V8 but has had a 302 in since before I ever owned it. It has none of the smog equipment what so ever left on it. It is down to the very basics of what is needed to run with the Duraspark II ignition system that was original. Could the distributor itself cause this issue? I know the negative lead for the coil comes out of the ignition module but does the distributor still control when the coil receives the ground to fire like in the old points systems?

The electrical pickup unit in the bottom of the distributor can go bad. It generates a small electrical charge [millivolts?] which signals the ignition box.

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The electrical pickup unit in the bottom of the distributor can go bad. It generates a small electrical charge [millivolts?] which signals the ignition box.

Yes, David is correct. The pickup in the dizzy can go bad. But, the insulation to the pickup inside the dizzy is a known problem. Both he and I witnessed Paul/Rogue_Wulff troubleshoot Eli/SmokenChoken's problem wherein the engine would die if you put the vacuum to the distributor. Paul pulled the cap and pointed to the insulation falling off the pickup's leads. I had one in the attic, and we changed it out. Problem solved.

So, you might want to check that those wires in the dizzy aren't coming apart. If not, maybe replace the pickup for insurance?

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Yes, David is correct. The pickup in the dizzy can go bad. But, the insulation to the pickup inside the dizzy is a known problem. Both he and I witnessed Paul/Rogue_Wulff troubleshoot Eli/SmokenChoken's problem wherein the engine would die if you put the vacuum to the distributor. Paul pulled the cap and pointed to the insulation falling off the pickup's leads. I had one in the attic, and we changed it out. Problem solved.

So, you might want to check that those wires in the dizzy aren't coming apart. If not, maybe replace the pickup for insurance?

And Paul diagnosed this before even looking at it. :nabble_smiley_whistling:

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