reamer Posted January 29, 2019 Author Share Posted January 29, 2019 I want to monitor battery voltage, not cab voltage since it will vary by the number of accessories that are on. Which is why I'm going to use a key-on relay to power the volt meter. But, that's just my preference. As for Bob, I didn't know that he did all that. We need to get his info on the Resource page. What can we share? On the ground, I like your idea. That way you can put it back. Yes, it the "six sided hotdog" with two threaded ports, The end one was cut at 45 degrees and the second on one of the sides. Was a bi%*h to get the two to fit and then have them not to hit the P.S. pump when installed. I had to pitch the stock sender towards the fire wall, so it would clear the P.S. pump, but then had to install a 90 degree elbow to mount the electronic sender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyn Blin Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 Yes, it the "six sided hotdog" with two threaded ports, The end one was cut at 45 degrees and the second on one of the sides. Was a bi%*h to get the two to fit and then have them not to hit the P.S. pump when installed. I had to pitch the stock sender towards the fire wall, so it would clear the P.S. pump, but then had to install a 90 degree elbow to mount the electronic sender. I had that same issue and although it's pretty stout, worried I might strip it trying to turn it enough to seal & enough to point in a direction that didn't intefere with anything else. I ordered, but didn't install, a sandwich adapter under the oil filter. If ever needed. Nice work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyn Blin Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 I want to monitor battery voltage, not cab voltage since it will vary by the number of accessories that are on. Which is why I'm going to use a key-on relay to power the volt meter. But, that's just my preference... I get a battery reading when I turn to key to accessory position prior to ignition. My second plank question in 72 hours: The original ammeter "voltage" comes from the alternator, correct? Anything tapped after the voltage regulator is not battery voltage either? (That's 2 plank questions) One more question- if tapping at the fuse box, would that tell me if my voltage regulator was going bad if I see a bunch of bouncing at the gauge, or a consistent "over-voltage" in excess of 14.5? (plank hat trick! I'm opening my EVTM when I get home) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 I want to monitor battery voltage, not cab voltage since it will vary by the number of accessories that are on. Which is why I'm going to use a key-on relay to power the volt meter. But, that's just my preference... I get a battery reading when I turn to key to accessory position prior to ignition. My second plank question in 72 hours: The original ammeter "voltage" comes from the alternator, correct? Anything tapped after the voltage regulator is not battery voltage either? (That's 2 plank questions) One more question- if tapping at the fuse box, would that tell me if my voltage regulator was going bad if I see a bunch of bouncing at the gauge, or a consistent "over-voltage" in excess of 14.5? (plank hat trick! I'm opening my EVTM when I get home) Yes, you should get the battery's voltage when you turn the key to Run. It'll be a bit less than with everything turned off as the ignition, at the very least, will be on. But, it doesn't pull much. As for #2, the ammeter is seeing essentially battery voltage. So when Ron used the lead from the shunt, the original lead to the ammeter, it'll be pretty close to battery voltage. Now, for the swinging voltage, there really shouldn't be much change at the fuse box except for when accessories are turned on and off. But Ford used pretty small wiring, so there is an appreciable voltage drop from the battery to the fuse box. However, it should not swing back and forth. That might be a sign of a bad voltage regulator. But voltage can go to something like 14.7 volts in cold conditions when the battery is a bit low. However, it should come back to about 14.4 when things warm up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 Yes, you should get the battery's voltage when you turn the key to Run. It'll be a bit less than with everything turned off as the ignition, at the very least, will be on. But, it doesn't pull much. As for #2, the ammeter is seeing essentially battery voltage. So when Ron used the lead from the shunt, the original lead to the ammeter, it'll be pretty close to battery voltage. Now, for the swinging voltage, there really shouldn't be much change at the fuse box except for when accessories are turned on and off. But Ford used pretty small wiring, so there is an appreciable voltage drop from the battery to the fuse box. However, it should not swing back and forth. That might be a sign of a bad voltage regulator. But voltage can go to something like 14.7 volts in cold conditions when the battery is a bit low. However, it should come back to about 14.4 when things warm up. Took OO-BGUB out today to get it hot and watch the oil pressure drop (as it usually does) the needle usually sits between "N" and "O", at idle, da pressure is 30 psi... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Took OO-BGUB out today to get it hot and watch the oil pressure drop (as it usually does) the needle usually sits between "N" and "O", at idle, da pressure is 30 psi... That's lots of pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 That's lots of pressure. I was figuring it would be 6 or 7 psi, (with just the stock gauge) But I can hold off on a rebuild for some time with 25+ psi.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 That's lots of pressure. If the engine is otherwise running well and not using a lot of oil there's no reason to rebuild based on that oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 I was figuring it would be 6 or 7 psi, (with just the stock gauge) But I can hold off on a rebuild for some time with 25+ psi.... Good oil pressure indicates the pump & bearings are probably good. But decide about a rebuild, I'd also consider compression & vacuum: https://supermotors.net/getfile/248051/thumbnail/compression-pressures.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Good oil pressure indicates the pump & bearings are probably good. But decide about a rebuild, I'd also consider compression & vacuum: https://supermotors.net/getfile/248051/thumbnail/compression-pressures.jpg Vacuum and compression tests do help determine how the engine is performing. However, in my experience a leak-down test takes it even further. I had an '82 351W that idled very roughly, but passed the compression test with flying colors. And the vacuum at idle was reasonable, although it had glitches in it. But a leak-down test determined that 4 cylinders had leaking valves - and two sets of those four were adjacent to each other in the firing order, which caused the roughness. On the other hand, there was little leakage past the rings. So having the valves ground solved the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts