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Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer


reamer

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With OO-BEGUB away for the winter, I installed the "converted-to-volt meter" gauge, and also installed a digital oil pressure gauge.

I used a dual port extension so I can run the stock pressure sender and also the new electronic sender.

After running for a awhile, the oil pressure goes to "N".... I just don't know how much pressure is "N".

Right now "R" = 52 psi, will be interesting to see what "N" equals.

Notice the volt meter, showing its "charging at @ 14 volts.....:nabble_smiley_good:

Dual_oil.thumb.jpg.def8272b66c921840ec3b96dbb8af6ae.jpg

 

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Looks good, Ron. :nabble_smiley_good: Where did you tell Rocketman you wanted the gauge to read? I told him I wanted the center to be 12.8v. How/where did you wire it? With a relay or to switched power?

And, I'll show my ignorance - who is OO-BEGUB?

When I registered it in the state of "Confusion," otherwise known as "the Peoples Republic of Connecticut"

They named it for me.... (look at the plate):nabble_smiley_tongue::nabble_anim_blbl:

On the volt meter, its wired with for 12.5 on "center" and No relay, used the original gauge wire and grounded the other post on the back of the cluster....

Finished_Rear.thumb.jpg.59bb19d549879d03bc4589a7c6170c97.jpg

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When I registered it in the state of "Confusion," otherwise known as "the Peoples Republic of Connecticut"

They named it for me.... (look at the plate):nabble_smiley_tongue::nabble_anim_blbl:

On the volt meter, its wired with for 12.5 on "center" and No relay, used the original gauge wire and grounded the other post on the back of the cluster....

OO - I see! :nabble_anim_claps:

On the voltmeter, does it read with the key off?

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Ron, was the extension you used for the sender the six-sided "hot dog" that extends from the port?

(and man- that carpet is clean!)

Great modification. Bob aka "Rocketman" is one of the most knowledgeable and accommodating resources I've found, between him and the members here, I'm not sure there's much that can't be answered.

If someone purchases a voltmeter and later decides they want it re-calibrated so the markers point to other benchmarks outside the default range, he'll do so for a nominal fee.

I ended up using an "add-a-circuit" from the fusebox to ensure key-off was not presenting a parasitic drain, and I figured it would be a good indication of true voltage making it through the harness . Going from the fuse-box makes it a bit easier to troubleshoot and isolate if needed.

The "hardest" part was isolating the ground post from the old double-hot set up from the ammeter on the . To preserve as much as possible, I widened the diameter of the printed film with a drill bit to make sure it did not contact the negative post in the voltmeter, but not wide enough that the (removed) nut wouldn't touch if there was ever a desire to convert back.

Rocketma/Bob makes a great headlight relay harness, too, and can fix broken tachometers.

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Ron, was the extension you used for the sender the six-sided "hot dog" that extends from the port?

(and man- that carpet is clean!)

Great modification. Bob aka "Rocketman" is one of the most knowledgeable and accommodating resources I've found, between him and the members here, I'm not sure there's much that can't be answered.

If someone purchases a voltmeter and later decides they want it re-calibrated so the markers point to other benchmarks outside the default range, he'll do so for a nominal fee.

I ended up using an "add-a-circuit" from the fusebox to ensure key-off was not presenting a parasitic drain, and I figured it would be a good indication of true voltage making it through the harness . Going from the fuse-box makes it a bit easier to troubleshoot and isolate if needed.

The "hardest" part was isolating the ground post from the old double-hot set up from the ammeter on the . To preserve as much as possible, I widened the diameter of the printed film with a drill bit to make sure it did not contact the negative post in the voltmeter, but not wide enough that the (removed) nut wouldn't touch if there was ever a desire to convert back.

Rocketma/Bob makes a great headlight relay harness, too, and can fix broken tachometers.

I want to monitor battery voltage, not cab voltage since it will vary by the number of accessories that are on. Which is why I'm going to use a key-on relay to power the volt meter. But, that's just my preference.

As for Bob, I didn't know that he did all that. We need to get his info on the Resource page. What can we share?

On the ground, I like your idea. That way you can put it back.

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