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351w 2bbl to 4bbl & intake swap


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Hi everyone,

I’m planning on removing the 2bbl carb and intake on my 351w and fitting a 4bbl Holley and Edelbrock intake. I’ll be removing the smog system and egr as well.

Has anyone else done this and did you have any issues with the swap?

Many thanks for any info,

Alan

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When I bought Rusty, an '81 F150 w/a built 351M, it had an Edelbrock intake and a Holley 4160. It ran like a bandit at WOT, but didn't idle well and stumbled a bit when coming off idle. I had an Edelbrock 1406, which is also a 600 CFM carb, sitting on the shelf so I installed it. That cured the idle and off-idle issues, but cut back a bit on the WOT acceleration.

I'm not saying that the Edelbrock is better than a Holley, but those were out-of-the box carbs and one was tuned nicely for the application and one wasn't. Given that, you may need to dial the Holley in to get it to run "right".

But the Edelbrock intake is a good one, and the Holley can be tuned to fit about any application.

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When I bought Rusty, an '81 F150 w/a built 351M, it had an Edelbrock intake and a Holley 4160. It ran like a bandit at WOT, but didn't idle well and stumbled a bit when coming off idle. I had an Edelbrock 1406, which is also a 600 CFM carb, sitting on the shelf so I installed it. That cured the idle and off-idle issues, but cut back a bit on the WOT acceleration.

I'm not saying that the Edelbrock is better than a Holley, but those were out-of-the box carbs and one was tuned nicely for the application and one wasn't. Given that, you may need to dial the Holley in to get it to run "right".

But the Edelbrock intake is a good one, and the Holley can be tuned to fit about any application.

Been there, Done that!:nabble_anim_blbl:

Pulled over 50 lbs of emissions crap and installed the Eddy 4-v Non-egr intake and Eddy 4-V

Pulling the emissions was highly suggested by my Ford dealer.

Has he put it, "will run a hell of a lot better without that crap.....and it DOES:nabble_anim_jump:

When installing the intake, use brake cleaner to clean the block where it mates to the intake.

Do not use the front and rear gaskets, RTV only, AND make double sure to clean the point there the heads, block and intake mate, clean it and then clean them again and again. This is where your oil leak will form within an hour of running:nabble_smiley_oh_no::nabble_smiley_cry:

For some reason the oil pump shaft to the dizzy was too short! I had to find one @1/2 longer. make sure the dizzy will not spin free once installed.,,

51 Lbs of crap

51lbs_of_crap.jpg.56373d0d73cd6b3f1d91d1745c7705df.jpg

Shiny....

intakecarb2.jpg.475c233ac7f21a6f99c82c7d822863f6.jpg

And By the way, I ditched in the trash-can that POS HEI 1-wire, the shaft bering, or should I say, bushing, wore out in one season, got a replacement dizzy assembly, and that one toasted the module.

Went back to a Motrorcraft Dizzy and Duraspark II and never needed to look back! (thanks to Gary on the help wiring it correctly!)

 

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When I bought Rusty, an '81 F150 w/a built 351M, it had an Edelbrock intake and a Holley 4160. It ran like a bandit at WOT, but didn't idle well and stumbled a bit when coming off idle. I had an Edelbrock 1406, which is also a 600 CFM carb, sitting on the shelf so I installed it. That cured the idle and off-idle issues, but cut back a bit on the WOT acceleration.

I'm not saying that the Edelbrock is better than a Holley, but those were out-of-the box carbs and one was tuned nicely for the application and one wasn't. Given that, you may need to dial the Holley in to get it to run "right".

But the Edelbrock intake is a good one, and the Holley can be tuned to fit about any application.

Thanks for the reply👍

I have done this swap before on a 302w in my mustang so I’m familiar with setting up a Holley to run. I use an air fuel ratio gauge to get the jetting right.

My only concern is wether I might run into issues with engine control module and fault codes etc. I think my truck has the computer controlled carb on it. Does the engine module also control ignition timing as well as the carb or are they two separate systems?

Alan

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Been there, Done that!:nabble_anim_blbl:

Pulled over 50 lbs of emissions crap and installed the Eddy 4-v Non-egr intake and Eddy 4-V

Pulling the emissions was highly suggested by my Ford dealer.

Has he put it, "will run a hell of a lot better without that crap.....and it DOES:nabble_anim_jump:

When installing the intake, use brake cleaner to clean the block where it mates to the intake.

Do not use the front and rear gaskets, RTV only, AND make double sure to clean the point there the heads, block and intake mate, clean it and then clean them again and again. This is where your oil leak will form within an hour of running:nabble_smiley_oh_no::nabble_smiley_cry:

For some reason the oil pump shaft to the dizzy was too short! I had to find one @1/2 longer. make sure the dizzy will not spin free once installed.,,

51 Lbs of crap

Shiny....

And By the way, I ditched in the trash-can that POS HEI 1-wire, the shaft bering, or should I say, bushing, wore out in one season, got a replacement dizzy assembly, and that one toasted the module.

Went back to a Motrorcraft Dizzy and Duraspark II and never needed to look back! (thanks to Gary on the help wiring it correctly!)

Definitely a worthwhile mod Reamer, yours looks so much cleaner and I bet it runs way better too!

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Definitely a worthwhile mod Reamer, yours looks so much cleaner and I bet it runs way better too!

Amazing how much better! 750 rpm at idle, 85+mph (installed a ZF 5-sp)

Don't even have the computer box, al went bye-bye...

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Thanks for the reply👍

I have done this swap before on a 302w in my mustang so I’m familiar with setting up a Holley to run. I use an air fuel ratio gauge to get the jetting right.

My only concern is wether I might run into issues with engine control module and fault codes etc. I think my truck has the computer controlled carb on it. Does the engine module also control ignition timing as well as the carb or are they two separate systems?

Alan

The computer has to be neutered, if not removed. If you have a computer it controls the ignition timing, and it will get its knickers in a twist when you remove ANYTHING and kill the timing advance. So the dizzy has to be replaced with a DS-II or HEI, although Ron/reamer tells you why you might want to go w/a DS-II.

If you pull the computer you have nothing to control the EGR, nor the TAB and TAD relays, nor ........ So everything Ron showed might as well come off/out.

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The computer has to be neutered, if not removed. If you have a computer it controls the ignition timing, and it will get its knickers in a twist when you remove ANYTHING and kill the timing advance. So the dizzy has to be replaced with a DS-II or HEI, although Ron/reamer tells you why you might want to go w/a DS-II.

If you pull the computer you have nothing to control the EGR, nor the TAB and TAD relays, nor ........ So everything Ron showed might as well come off/out.

I have a hei module already so will source a duraspark distributor to replace the tfi one currently fitted.

Alan

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I have a hei module already so will source a duraspark distributor to replace the tfi one currently fitted.

Alan

I've missed something. If you have an HEI module and are looking for a Duraspark distributor, are you going to install the HEI module in the DS distributor? Because the two don't usually get wired together.

So, what did I miss?

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I've missed something. If you have an HEI module and are looking for a Duraspark distributor, are you going to install the HEI module in the DS distributor? Because the two don't usually get wired together.

So, what did I miss?

I was thinking of removing the factory tfi ignition if it would give problems with the engine control module removed. I would then replace it with a duraspark distributor and wire in a hei module like this:

ford-302-hei-distributor-installation-lovely-duraspark-distributor-info-needed-of-ford-302-hei-distributor-installation.png.03c2290ce000de89e2745366d7e0010b.png

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