Dyn Blin Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Good afternoon all. Happy New Year Eve. A hauling favor for a friend has me a couple hours from home. After stopping for gas, I had a no-start, with nothing coming on when I turned the key. It's cold today, so at first I thought it might be the key switch, but after a couple of jiggles, I popped the hood and found this: I got her started with a positap connection between the remnant of the wire coming out of the black grommet (the single wire stub has a back with orange solid stripe on the insulation exterior) and the blue/green wire that's not connected in the pic (it connects to the positive side of the starter solenoid). I don't have my EVTM at hand, and although I'm mobile, will stop for a cup of coffee and a sandwich while I review some web searches on the phone . (Edit, having some trouble with images from the phone-retry) While I do, can anyone tell me what that wire connects to, and if I should wire a fusable link between the two before I start home? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Mark - The black/orange wire is the fuselink to the main switch. You need it. I'm not sure you need to go find a fuselink to replace it with right now as it won't be an issue unless you have a short elsewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 According to my 1984 EVTM, that black wire with the orange stripe is the main power wire from the ALT to the Battery (positive side of starter relay). It should have a fusible link, yes...but if I was stuck on the side of the road I'd hook it up direct to get home and then fix is properly later when you have better control. How far do you have to go? 10 miles or 100? I'm no expert...so somebody may very correct me here. I can only say what I'd do if I was stuck somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Mark - The black/orange wire is the fuselink to the main switch. You need it. I'm not sure you need to go find a fuselink to replace it with right now as it won't be an issue unless you have a short elsewhere. Oh, sorry Gary, I was looking at the BK/O wire from the ALT with fuse link "D" a little below where you highlighted. Don't mind me...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Oh, sorry Gary, I was looking at the BK/O wire from the ALT with fuse link "D" a little below where you highlighted. Don't mind me...lol. Cory - Maybe I have the wrong one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Cory - Maybe I have the wrong one? I believe you have the right one Gary, because Dyn had no power. I had the fuse link Cory is talking about go out and had power but no charge. Butt connected it and drove about 700 miles from Salt Lake City to home, after an alternator change in a motel parking lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Cory - Maybe I have the wrong one? Well, the one you have highlighted (fuse link "D") on the BK/O wire looks like it supplies power to the headlights? I was looking at the other BK/O wire in the diagram below...fuse link "E", between the ALT and the hot side of the starter relay. I'm not sure how it would stop it from starting, but it also connects to the Voltage reg...so if that circuit was broken, maybe that stopped it from starting?...I dunno... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyn Blin Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 According to my 1984 EVTM, that black wire with the orange stripe is the main power wire from the ALT to the Battery (positive side of starter relay). It should have a fusible link, yes...but if I was stuck on the side of the road I'd hook it up direct to get home and then fix is properly later when you have better control. How far do you have to go? 10 miles or 100? I'm no expert...so somebody may very correct me here. I can only say what I'd do if I was stuck somewhere. I've got 150 miles to cover before I am back in the driveway. Lights work with it jumped. Doesn't seem to be getting hot, so hopefully not shorted somewhere else. Seems too small a guage for the alternator, but we'll find out. Thanks gentlemen, the fast response is appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 I believe you have the right one Gary, because Dyn had no power. I had the fuse link Cory is talking about go out and had power but no charge. Butt connected it and drove about 700 miles from Salt Lake City to home, after an alternator change in a motel parking lot. Right...good call. I think either way, he's plenty safe to splice it together for now to get home, and then fix properly with a fusible link later. IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Well, the one you have highlighted (fuse link "D") on the BK/O wire looks like it supplies power to the headlights? I was looking at the other BK/O wire in the diagram below...fuse link "E", between the ALT and the hot side of the starter relay. I'm not sure how it would stop it from starting, but it also connects to the Voltage reg...so if that circuit was broken, maybe that stopped it from starting?...I dunno... On these trucks, the power from the battery goes through the alternator harness then inside the cab. I swore the first time I was sorting things on a bullnose that I wanted whatever those EEs were smoking when they designed the system. In the words of Cheech and Chong, "must have been some dynomite sheet mon." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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