Duraspark Conversion Fail

[PetesPonies]

Thank you Gary for the help!! At least I know the resistor is working I have that brown wire taped so it stops at the coil. So now I will check the grounds and play with the solenoid again next week. Just frustrated that a simple wiring job is kicking my rear!🤔

Painless harnesses are many times, not. I do Mustang Restorations and Painless comes up a lot with swap and replacements of harnesses. I'm not impressed and I would never use one. But . . . it should work, right ? :) Let us know what you find next. It really is a simple circuit.

[Gary Lewis]

Painless harnesses are many times, not. I do Mustang Restorations and Painless comes up a lot with swap and replacements of harnesses. I'm not impressed and I would never use one. But . . . it should work, right ? :) Let us know what you find next. It really is a simple circuit.

Kevin - You'll get there. Don't worry.

Pete - I agree that Painless isn't. We have this one listed in the Resources folder: American Autowire. But I've not used one so don't know if they are painful or not.

[844rd]

Kevin - You'll get there. Don't worry.

Pete - I agree that Painless isn't. We have this one listed in the Resources folder: American Autowire. But I've not used one so don't know if they are painful or not.

UPDATE: Got it running!!!!! But wired up way different from the painless diagram. So coming off of the Ignition module they had the white wire going to the starter solenoid "S" with the key to start wire and a brown wire to the "I". Well no start. so pull the brown wire off still nothing except the key switch wire has 12 volts so I replace the solenoid and just hook up the original key to crank wire still got 12.4 volts when I turn the key but wont engage the starter. Now I get jumper cables, go from hot post of the battery to starter side and fires right up. So did I get 2 new bad solenoids or does it just not like the 4 point ones. Anyway I have ordered a Motorcraft SW1951C solenoid maybe that will solve the issue. On another note that white wire I took off of the solenoid that goes straight to the module I checked the voltage and it has 12 volts all the time with it just coming from the module? so I don't understand why they showed it going to the solenoid. The truck runs with nothing on the white wire side of the module?

[Gary Lewis]

UPDATE: Got it running!!!!! But wired up way different from the painless diagram. So coming off of the Ignition module they had the white wire going to the starter solenoid "S" with the key to start wire and a brown wire to the "I". Well no start. so pull the brown wire off still nothing except the key switch wire has 12 volts so I replace the solenoid and just hook up the original key to crank wire still got 12.4 volts when I turn the key but wont engage the starter. Now I get jumper cables, go from hot post of the battery to starter side and fires right up. So did I get 2 new bad solenoids or does it just not like the 4 point ones. Anyway I have ordered a Motorcraft SW1951C solenoid maybe that will solve the issue. On another note that white wire I took off of the solenoid that goes straight to the module I checked the voltage and it has 12 volts all the time with it just coming from the module? so I don't understand why they showed it going to the solenoid. The truck runs with nothing on the white wire side of the module?

Glad you got it running. And, you might have gotten two bad solenoids. I've heard that it happens.

As for the white wire, it is to tell the ignition module that the engine is being cranked and, therefore, needs a bit of retard to the timing. But you don't need that function. In fact, some modules don't even have it.

[844rd]

Glad you got it running. And, you might have gotten two bad solenoids. I've heard that it happens.

As for the white wire, it is to tell the ignition module that the engine is being cranked and, therefore, needs a bit of retard to the timing. But you don't need that function. In fact, some modules don't even have it.

That's good to know. I will leave if like it is. I've only drove it around the yard today and messed with the trimming. I'm somewhere around 14 deg. BTDC. Idles good but will try it on the hwy tomorrow and try to find the balance between good idle and no pinging. I'm sure I will need some more advice... Thanks

[Ferdinand]

Way to stick with it Kevin! I have always wondered about "Painless" wiring harnesses. But I am glad you are up and running.

My project is kicking my tail so others' success is keeping me motivated 😉

I have been kicking around the idea of a ready to run Distributor from MSD but I just bought 2 new DSII modules and a new factory replacement distributor so I'll keep the old tech for now. I had an '82 F150 and never had any issues with the modules.

[844rd]

Way to stick with it Kevin! I have always wondered about "Painless" wiring harnesses. But I am glad you are up and running.

My project is kicking my tail so others' success is keeping me motivated 😉

I have been kicking around the idea of a ready to run Distributor from MSD but I just bought 2 new DSII modules and a new factory replacement distributor so I'll keep the old tech for now. I had an '82 F150 and never had any issues with the modules.

I pondered that for a short time, looked at the Davis United all in one set up but it was an expenses unit and I worried if I had issues with it might be hard to finger out and get parts for. I like the DS2, easy to find parts that doesn't cost much. The only thing I would not do again is NOT get that Painless harness . My local junk yard didn't have any, but if I could do it again, I would have kept looking for sure.

[844rd]

Glad you got it running. And, you might have gotten two bad solenoids. I've heard that it happens.

As for the white wire, it is to tell the ignition module that the engine is being cranked and, therefore, needs a bit of retard to the timing. But you don't need that function. In fact, some modules don't even have it.

I have a question on the tach wire..If I understand right, the plug from the fire wall is a two prong plug one green and one black. On the TFI set up there was one green wire coming from the coil and distributor. I understand the black wire on the plug was only used on V8's. Painless harness has a yellow wire that says goes to aftermarket tach so would I just tie the yellow into the green that goes into the firewall?

[Gary Lewis]

I have a question on the tach wire..If I understand right, the plug from the fire wall is a two prong plug one green and one black. On the TFI set up there was one green wire coming from the coil and distributor. I understand the black wire on the plug was only used on V8's. Painless harness has a yellow wire that says goes to aftermarket tach so would I just tie the yellow into the green that goes into the firewall?

If the yellow Painless wire comes from the Tach terminal on the coil, then it does go to the dark green/yellow wire going to the firewall. And the black/light green wire is grounded to tell the tach that it is getting a signal from a V8. Otherwise it assumes it is a 6 cylinder engine.

[844rd]

If the yellow Painless wire comes from the Tach terminal on the coil, then it does go to the dark green/yellow wire going to the firewall. And the black/light green wire is grounded to tell the tach that it is getting a signal from a V8. Otherwise it assumes it is a 6 cylinder engine.

Yes the yellow wire goes straight to the coil horseshoe so I will hook that up. Currently I don't have a tach but I have a whole gauge cluster from eBay with a tack and trip odometer. I bought the blue LEDs you put in your truck, so I should be able to see it now. I do have a question on were I mounted the coil. I used the same bolt that the TFI was on but its right up against the plug wire boot. So should I move it to another location and would it make a difference if it is horizontal or vertical? AND on the TFI the plug gap is 44-46 will that be the same on the DS2? Thanks for the help…