Quarterwave Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 I am just glad my konvertible has a copper/brass one and I have a spare complete with intercooler. Next one for Darth may be all aluminum and hopefully more than the two measly rows Ford used. 85lebaront2 - mine is a 4 core aluminum unit from Summit (if memory serves) - I'm actually wondering if it's overkill for the 351W. Gary - seriously, it must be season. Out of nowhere I have a plumbing drip under my kitchen sink (main drain pipe) along with a toilet that just started running. Man, I can't keep up with the "honey-do" list!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 85lebaront2 - mine is a 4 core aluminum unit from Summit (if memory serves) - I'm actually wondering if it's overkill for the 351W. Gary - seriously, it must be season. Out of nowhere I have a plumbing drip under my kitchen sink (main drain pipe) along with a toilet that just started running. Man, I can't keep up with the "honey-do" list!!! Just and FYI on transmission cooler lines. Chrysler used molded hoses on the FWD cars, some 5/16" and some 3/8". My konvertible has the turbo II engine with an intercooler on the left end of a smaller than normal radiator. Since the turbo II engines were never originally built with an automatic and the intercooler prevents access to the cold end, I had to use and external cooler which I removed along with the quick connects from a Durango with a 4.7L V8. I figured since it was the only cooler used on the transmission it should be adequate for the little A413. I first tried just using a length of hose, but short of using two long pieces and having to secure them away so they wouldn't rub on things. I looked at the original molded pieces from the 1986 TBI cooler plumbing, but they really didn't like being twisted 90° to reach through to the cooler. What I ended up doing was cutting both of them just above where they turned up to go to the radiator. On the lower one, I just turned the cut off piece around to point it forward, the upper one I cut the last 90° section off, cut the lower portion like the lower hose and did the same reverse of the resulting L shaped section. To splice them, I didn't have a long straight section to make the connections in so I took my bubble flare kit and using the 8 mm tools made a nice "barb" section to assemble everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 Just and FYI on transmission cooler lines. Chrysler used molded hoses on the FWD cars, some 5/16" and some 3/8". My konvertible has the turbo II engine with an intercooler on the left end of a smaller than normal radiator. Since the turbo II engines were never originally built with an automatic and the intercooler prevents access to the cold end, I had to use and external cooler which I removed along with the quick connects from a Durango with a 4.7L V8. I figured since it was the only cooler used on the transmission it should be adequate for the little A413. I first tried just using a length of hose, but short of using two long pieces and having to secure them away so they wouldn't rub on things. I looked at the original molded pieces from the 1986 TBI cooler plumbing, but they really didn't like being twisted 90° to reach through to the cooler. What I ended up doing was cutting both of them just above where they turned up to go to the radiator. On the lower one, I just turned the cut off piece around to point it forward, the upper one I cut the last 90° section off, cut the lower portion like the lower hose and did the same reverse of the resulting L shaped section. To splice them, I didn't have a long straight section to make the connections in so I took my bubble flare kit and using the 8 mm tools made a nice "barb" section to assemble everything. Here are pictures of the completed job. Hose clamps on the transaxle and splice are the original fuel line clamps, I put all new ones on since the fuel pressure gets to 70 psi under boost. Slick idea, Bill. Don't think I'd have thought of that, but it worked out very nicely. I'll remember that - I hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 Slick idea, Bill. Don't think I'd have thought of that, but it worked out very nicely. I'll remember that - I hope. You could probably use a regular double flare kit and just do the first stage of the double flare, my set needs a new "vice" as the internal teeth that are supposed to grip the line are worn and no longer hold. I didn't push it all the way as I think it leaves the back side flat which could create a place where the hose could be cut internally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 You could probably use a regular double flare kit and just do the first stage of the double flare, my set needs a new "vice" as the internal teeth that are supposed to grip the line are worn and no longer hold. I didn't push it all the way as I think it leaves the back side flat which could create a place where the hose could be cut internally. Yes, I agree that you don't want sharp transitions where it could cut the line. A nice smooth bump seals the hose and ensures it can't come off when you have a clamp on the back side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 You could probably use a regular double flare kit and just do the first stage of the double flare, my set needs a new "vice" as the internal teeth that are supposed to grip the line are worn and no longer hold. I didn't push it all the way as I think it leaves the back side flat which could create a place where the hose could be cut internally. If you want the best seal between steel & rubber, buy a brass compression-to-barb adapter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 If you want the best seal between steel & rubber, buy a brass compression-to-barb adapter. Steve, it was rubber to rubber except at the cooler and I used the quick connect pieces from the Durango it came off of there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Steve, it was rubber to rubber except at the cooler and I used the quick connect pieces from the Durango it came off of there. Then a brass or Aluminum barb-to-barb would be best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Then a brass or Aluminum barb-to-barb would be best. That's all well and good IF i lived in an area where I can run to all sorts of sources for these type of fittings quickly. I have an ACE hardware about a mile away, one parts jobber who carries an amazing assortment of marine and farm equipment items and can make permanent crimped fittings for them, just not small stuff. I have a NAPA and AutoZone 15 miles away, no O'Reilly anywhere close (nearest one is 60 miles and an $18 round trip toll away) nearest Advance is 60 miles the opposite way. Tractor supply, who might have something is up where AutoZone and NAPA are. After spending 30 years in a laboratory where we frequently had to make parts needed to perform tests, I decided to make my connectors and use the nice full contact hose clamps I had saved off of three or four of these cars that were being scrapped. I also wanted to restrict the flow as little as possible as some Torqueflites are very sensitive to flow restrictions in the cooler lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 That's all well and good IF i lived in an area where I can run to all sorts of sources for these type of fittings quickly. I have an ACE hardware about a mile away, one parts jobber who carries an amazing assortment of marine and farm equipment items and can make permanent crimped fittings for them, just not small stuff. I have a NAPA and AutoZone 15 miles away, no O'Reilly anywhere close (nearest one is 60 miles and an $18 round trip toll away) nearest Advance is 60 miles the opposite way. Tractor supply, who might have something is up where AutoZone and NAPA are. After spending 30 years in a laboratory where we frequently had to make parts needed to perform tests, I decided to make my connectors and use the nice full contact hose clamps I had saved off of three or four of these cars that were being scrapped. I also wanted to restrict the flow as little as possible as some Torqueflites are very sensitive to flow restrictions in the cooler lines. Then something like this might be a good investment for you: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CC4TWLB I recently got this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OMKIDI But after searching up that link, I wish I had gotten one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DN6Z7T7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073V9R3FJ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077TPHPNC I've had this for a while: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KO1XK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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