85lebaront2 Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 I can't find anything in the catalog that tells me which way the fluid flows. Maybe Bill knows? Do you have any pictures that show the cooler lines to transmission connections? At worst case. take a line loose, unplug the coil "horseshoe" so it won't start and crank the engine by jumping the starter relay and see which way the fluid comes out. Front line on transmission is out to cooler, rear is return to lube circuits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 15, 2018 Share Posted December 15, 2018 Do you have any pictures that show the cooler lines to transmission connections? At worst case. take a line loose, unplug the coil "horseshoe" so it won't start and crank the engine by jumping the starter relay and see which way the fluid comes out. Front line on transmission is out to cooler, rear is return to lube circuits. Bill - I have illustrations on the Cooling Lines tab here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/c6.html. But, it doesn't show which line is supply and which is return. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 15, 2018 Share Posted December 15, 2018 Bill - I have illustrations on the Cooling Lines tab here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/c6.html. But, it doesn't show which line is supply and which is return. No but when you look at the fluid diagram it shows out to cooler, then from the cooler back to rear lube. If you look at the transmission itself there is a fitting near the front, if I remember correctly right behind where the pump mounts, the other fitting is at the rear of the case, where it feeds into the lube passage in the output shaft. Logic says that the front fitting is going to be the hot oil from the torque converter and the rear fitting the cooled oil into the lube passages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 15, 2018 Share Posted December 15, 2018 how can I tell which is the "to" and which is the "from"?ATF (originally) comes from the trans, through the radiator, through the O2A cooler, then returns to the trans. So if you have even 1 original steel line intact, you should be able to tell which way it passed through the original radiator, which tells you the flow through the rest of the loop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarterwave Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 Hi everyone, I didn't add the in-line filter yet as I wanted to resolve the leak issue, which after sawing off the connector, filing it and then double clamping the hose, seems to have done the trick. If only the radiator hose didn't start leaking not long after, I would be much happier... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 Hi everyone, I didn't add the in-line filter yet as I wanted to resolve the leak issue, which after sawing off the connector, filing it and then double clamping the hose, seems to have done the trick. If only the radiator hose didn't start leaking not long after, I would be much happier... Well, at least there's one fewer layer on the onion now, and you are one ring closer to having a Bloomin' Onion. Cooling system leaks appear to be "the thing" at the mo. Our daughter, who is living with us currently, called yesterday just as Sunday school class was starting. The 2001 Subaru had overheated and she had stopped on the way to meet us there. It is only a mile home, so I went back to get her and we left the car. After church, when it had cooled down, I filled it up w/water and drove it home. It didn't leak until it got up to operating temp and the pressure came up. At that point the upper plastic tank started leaking where it was supposed to be sealed to the aluminum core, and steam started rising. The new $68 radiator will be in tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 ...the upper plastic tank started leaking where it was supposed to be sealed to the aluminum core...In some cases the Aluminum can simply be crimped back onto the tank without any other work. Mine lasted another ~3 years before the tank itself cracked in a different area. https://supermotors.net/getfile/943848/thumbnail/radiator17.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 ...the upper plastic tank started leaking where it was supposed to be sealed to the aluminum core...In some cases the Aluminum can simply be crimped back onto the tank without any other work. Mine lasted another ~3 years before the tank itself cracked in a different area. https://supermotors.net/getfile/943848/thumbnail/radiator17.jpg Steve, that was the original intent of the plastic/aluminum radiators, the theory being the tanks could removed, core cleaned, new gaskets installed and you would have an essentially new radiator. Fallacy was aluminum fatigue fails much quicker than steel or even brass, making uncrimping and recrimping a crapshoot as to whether it would seal or not. A good friend who owned a radiator shop told me that the failure rate on those repairs was close to 50%, so he stopped fooling with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Steve, that was the original intent of the plastic/aluminum radiators, the theory being the tanks could removed, core cleaned, new gaskets installed and you would have an essentially new radiator. Fallacy was aluminum fatigue fails much quicker than steel or even brass, making uncrimping and recrimping a crapshoot as to whether it would seal or not. A good friend who owned a radiator shop told me that the failure rate on those repairs was close to 50%, so he stopped fooling with them. Steve - I thought of trying to stake the crimps, but they aren't easily accessible. And by the time you get to all of them you have the radiator ready to come out. But for $68 and 2-day delivery for a car that my daughter and grandtwins ride in that became a no-brainer. Bill - That kind of information tells me that my days of buying plastic/aluminum radiators is over. Assuming, of course, that an all-aluminum one is available. And that's not the case for the Subie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Steve - I thought of trying to stake the crimps, but they aren't easily accessible. And by the time you get to all of them you have the radiator ready to come out. But for $68 and 2-day delivery for a car that my daughter and grandtwins ride in that became a no-brainer. Bill - That kind of information tells me that my days of buying plastic/aluminum radiators is over. Assuming, of course, that an all-aluminum one is available. And that's not the case for the Subie. I am just glad my konvertible has a copper/brass one and I have a spare complete with intercooler. Next one for Darth may be all aluminum and hopefully more than the two measly rows Ford used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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