eternaltruck Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 I have several question regarding the Duraspark 2 conversion. My F150 is a 1986 shortbed with the 4.9, and the carter feedback carb. It was mentioned that if I did the conversion, that the computer, and all the wiring would go, but by that, does that mean that every wire that connects to the ecm gets removed? Also, if my current understanding is true, what would happen to parts like this one ? I'm assuming that it would get swapped with a older identical part before the feedback carb. lastly, what are the best parts to use for this conversion, specifically what year carter carb works the best, and how do I know if I have the correct distributor? do they still sell them new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eternaltruck Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 Here's some additional pictures of the engine bay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eternaltruck Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 In my experience, which isn't vast, all of the wires to/from the ECM can be removed. Ford seems to have made that wiring completely standalone. For instance, there was a temp sender for the gauges and one for the ECM. Etc. But, if it was me I'd trace the wires from the ECM as best I can and make sure that what I'm telling you is correct. One way to trace the wires is to go to the page on the 1986 EVTM and look at each wire to the ECM and then find that wire under the hood. Make sure what it hooks to, and if you have questions come back here and ask them. Speaking of extra temp senders, I think that's what you have in the first pic. Pull the convolute back and see what wire colors you have. I'll bet they are bk/white and light green/yellow, which are the temp sender wires to the ECM. If so, they can be taken out, and you can either leave the sender or pull it and plug the opening. The carb you want is the one David/1986F150Six has in his truck. I think it is from a 1970 truck, but I'll have to find his info and get back with you. As for the distributor, ideally you'd get one to match the carb, but that's not the easiest thing to do. Let me do some looking tomorrow to see what I can come up with on that, unless someone else beats me to the answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Since David is not usually online on the weekends... I will relay what he told me via email. On the advice of the straight six guru Frenchtown Flyer he bought a Carter YF carburetor for a 1970 F350. That age and GVWR meant that it was calibrated for a NON- EGR application. If you have deleted your smog pump this is the carb to order. Regarding the Duraspark II conversion itself, most of the write ups are for upgrading an older points style ignition to electronic ignition... (not retro converting a feedback system), but the wiring is going to be the same. You may find this link helpful. (Note, it says V8 engines, but everything is the same for a I6 except the distributor): http://www.suddenlink.net/pages/jonknapek/fordv8/duraspark.html As you can see here the system is pretty well self contained: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Since David is not usually online on the weekends... I will relay what he told me via email. On the advice of the straight six guru Frenchtown Flyer he bought a Carter YF carburetor for a 1970 F350. That age and GVWR meant that it was calibrated for a NON- EGR application. If you have deleted your smog pump this is the carb to order. Regarding the Duraspark II conversion itself, most of the write ups are for upgrading an older points style ignition to electronic ignition... (not retro converting a feedback system), but the wiring is going to be the same. You may find this link helpful. (Note, it says V8 engines, but everything is the same for a I6 except the distributor): http://www.suddenlink.net/pages/jonknapek/fordv8/duraspark.html As you can see here the system is pretty well self contained: Here is exactly how I would do the ignition upgrade. Buy a rebuilt Duraspark distributor from any parts supplier. They are very affordable. You can remove all your ECM wiring, not needed. I would then use a GM HEI module to work with the Duraspark distributor. Frankly, it does a better job than the Duraspark box. It is very easy to wire and all you need to do is fab an aluminum mount for the module. I have done this conversion before. The wiring schematic is easy to find online, but I can help if you decide to go this way. It can be very stealth. I have seen people hide the HEI in a gutted Duraspark box :) I hid mine under some plastic that was standard in the engine compartment to hide the stock relays. If this seems interesting to you . I can provide more help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Here is exactly how I would do the ignition upgrade. Buy a rebuilt Duraspark distributor from any parts supplier. They are very affordable. You can remove all your ECM wiring, not needed. I would then use a GM HEI module to work with the Duraspark distributor. Frankly, it does a better job than the Duraspark box. It is very easy to wire and all you need to do is fab an aluminum mount for the module. I have done this conversion before. The wiring schematic is easy to find online, but I can help if you decide to go this way. It can be very stealth. I have seen people hide the HEI in a gutted Duraspark box :) I hid mine under some plastic that was standard in the engine compartment to hide the stock relays. If this seems interesting to you . I can provide more help. Pete - It is interesting that you suggest that. Tim Meyer is selling exactly that - a distributor with the HEI module in it: Track Boss Ready To Run (RTR) Distributor. I actually had SN#1 of that distributor. It was on my engine when Tim ran it on the dyno, and it performed perfectly. But, since I'm going with Ford's EEC-V EFI system the timing will be controlled by the ECM. So when Tim was out of those distributors I sold mine to a guy that needed one and it is in service somewhere. Unfortunately, at this time Tim doesn't seem to have one for the 300 six, but perhaps we could persuade him to make it? And, dial in the advance curve for a non-EGR engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Pete - It is interesting that you suggest that. Tim Meyer is selling exactly that - a distributor with the HEI module in it: Track Boss Ready To Run (RTR) Distributor. I actually had SN#1 of that distributor. It was on my engine when Tim ran it on the dyno, and it performed perfectly. But, since I'm going with Ford's EEC-V EFI system the timing will be controlled by the ECM. So when Tim was out of those distributors I sold mine to a guy that needed one and it is in service somewhere. Unfortunately, at this time Tim doesn't seem to have one for the 300 six, but perhaps we could persuade him to make it? And, dial in the advance curve for a non-EGR engine? Gary/Pete, what exactly is the advantage of HEI? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Gary/Pete, what exactly is the advantage of HEI? It just does a better job mainly, I believe, because it is a full voltage device. The Duraspark uses resistance like points do to cut voltage to 8-9V. If you start with more voltage, you'll end up with more voltage. Ive had the Ford boxes die on me, the HEI module is maybe more reliable, but only $20 anywhere. But running full voltage is a benefit. here's a stealth application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 It just does a better job mainly, I believe, because it is a full voltage device. The Duraspark uses resistance like points do to cut voltage to 8-9V. If you start with more voltage, you'll end up with more voltage. Ive had the Ford boxes die on me, the HEI module is maybe more reliable, but only $20 anywhere. But running full voltage is a benefit. here's a stealth application. There are advantages to the HEI module, but there are also disadvantages. One is the lack of ignition retard when cranking. Not all DS-II modules have that feature - it was designed in by Ford, but not all manufacturers have included it. In fact, I have two blue-grommet modules on Big Blue and only one of them has it, and the engine struggles to crank when it is the one in service, but cranks easily when the other is being used. Another disadvantage is because the HEI module pulls more current than the DS-II module does, so it needs to have new wiring run instead of using the small factory wiring. In fact, it really should have at least a #12 wire, and my reading says that GM used #10 wire to it from the factory. And that will require a relay as the wiring to the ignition switch on a Ford isn't nearly that large. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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