Still Having Issues With Throttle Cable

[Quarterwave]

Hi everyone,

Well, after a few hours with the truck today, I'm still having issues with my throttle cable and trans shift rod.

To recap, I'm using an Edelbrock AVS2 650 cfm carburetor on my mild 351W (around 400 hp).

Below is an image of what I'm dealing with and I will explain after the image:

1) I tried to pull the trans shift rod forward to reach the rod with the black "E" clamp on it (located just above the spring in the image), but it just would not reach that far. So, I called Edelbrock and based on their recommendation, bought and installed an Edelbrock trans rod extension plate. This is my second attempt at an install and about as clean an install as I can get it. Thoughts?

2) The main issue I am having is with the throttle cable - I installed a ball end connector into the upper location hole (highlighted by the second red circle in the image) initially and thought all was good. But, it compresses the spring that is on the throttle cable too much, so that the secondaries will BARELY open at full throttle... Plus, the cable and connector is skewed off to the right when in that configuration.

Also, when I took the slack out of the pull-chain, it took all of the throw out of the accelerator in the cabin.

What are my options here? I've looked at new throttle cables, brackets etc... but can't seem to find a solution and as I'm teaching myself as I go along, it's testing my patience!

Any help is appreciated in advance.

 

[LARIAT 85]

The problem is you are trying to use stock parts on an aftermarket carburetor.

The original carburetor that Ford used in the 1980s on their V8 engines was either a Motorcraft 2150 2V or a Motorcraft 4180 4V - which were both very similar to Holley designs. As a result, Ford designed their throttle cable, cruise control cable, and kickdown rod around that design. In order to use the stock Ford throttle cable, cruise control cable, and kickdown rod, a Holley-style carburetor would work better and with minimal (if any) modifications.

The Edlebrock carburetor design is completely different in its dimensions. If you wish to keep the Edlebrock, it will be easier to use an aftermarket-style accelerator cable (no built-in return spring), and attach a separate return spring to to the throttle lever.

[Quarterwave]

The problem is you are trying to use stock parts on an aftermarket carburetor.

The original carburetor that Ford used in the 1980s on their V8 engines was either a Motorcraft 2150 2V or a Motorcraft 4180 4V - which were both very similar to Holley designs. As a result, Ford designed their throttle cable, cruise control cable, and kickdown rod around that design. In order to use the stock Ford throttle cable, cruise control cable, and kickdown rod, a Holley-style carburetor would work better and with minimal (if any) modifications.

The Edlebrock carburetor design is completely different in its dimensions. If you wish to keep the Edlebrock, it will be easier to use an aftermarket-style accelerator cable (no built-in return spring), and attach a separate return spring to to the throttle lever.

Yeah, thanks Lariat.

I figured posting here for a solution might be a bit out of the box as it is not a piece of factory equipment.

As the carburetor is brand new (well, less than 10 miles old) buying a Holley is not really in my budget, so I'll reach out to Edelbrock to see what they have available for my application and then try to just figure it out myself.

[85lebaront2]

Yeah, thanks Lariat.

I figured posting here for a solution might be a bit out of the box as it is not a piece of factory equipment.

As the carburetor is brand new (well, less than 10 miles old) buying a Holley is not really in my budget, so I'll reach out to Edelbrock to see what they have available for my application and then try to just figure it out myself.

On the cable, take the factory bracket off the manifold, open the throttle all the way and tie it open, then hook the cable up and compress the spring as far as it will go. With the bracket in the approximate location it needs to be, measure and mark this. Find a small piece of angle stock and make an extension to move the cable outboard and back where it (a) pulls straight and (b) opens the throttle fully.

I personally agree with Lariat85, every Carter carb I have replaced a Holley with except for the Chrysler cars where the Holley had a long extended throttle shaft I have had to relocate the throttle cable to work correctly. If you were closer I could do it in an hour or less.

[Quarterwave]

Hi everyone,

Ok, after ordering an Edelbrock carburetor kick out plate and then expanding some of the holes in that plate, I have a much cleaner set up. The throttle isn't ideal, but it's a much more effective arrangement.

The first image below is the extender plate that the factory throttle cable plate bolts onto. It all then bolts into the intake manifold. The red circles indicate the holes that I had to trim out with a Dremel and diamond tipped grinding bit.

When I used the factory holes, I could only get one to line up with the manifold, so I extended one of them which ensured that I could use two of the holes to bolt it to the manifold.

The issue then was that the actual cable ball connector cup was a fraction too short, which when connected to the throttle ball, caused the engine to idle at around 1,200-1,500 rpm. By manually pulling the connector forward, the RPM's dropped to idle so, I took it all apart and then ground out the areas marked in red which gave me some room to move the whole assembly forward a fraction of an inch to get that sorted out.

Apologies for not taking a photo of the actual part when it was finished!

The next image is the actual assembly bolted to the manifold:

... and the last one shows the cables lined up with the throttle ball connector:

The throttle cable is still a little curved as it's close to the firewall but it's a good starting point for further adjustment.

Here are the Edelbrock parts that were needed for my truck - which has a C6 transmission, which needed the shift cable linkage extender as well. The carburetor is an Edelbrock AVS2 650 CFM with an electric choke.

Throttle Lever Adapter: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1483

Transmission Shift Cable Extension: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8011

Cable Plate: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1491

I hope this helps anyone else that is looking at making this carburetor change. If you have any questions, post on this thread or PM me.

Thanks!

 

[Gary Lewis]

Hi everyone,

Ok, after ordering an Edelbrock carburetor kick out plate and then expanding some of the holes in that plate, I have a much cleaner set up. The throttle isn't ideal, but it's a much more effective arrangement.

The first image below is the extender plate that the factory throttle cable plate bolts onto. It all then bolts into the intake manifold. The red circles indicate the holes that I had to trim out with a Dremel and diamond tipped grinding bit.

When I used the factory holes, I could only get one to line up with the manifold, so I extended one of them which ensured that I could use two of the holes to bolt it to the manifold.

The issue then was that the actual cable ball connector cup was a fraction too short, which when connected to the throttle ball, caused the engine to idle at around 1,200-1,500 rpm. By manually pulling the connector forward, the RPM's dropped to idle so, I took it all apart and then ground out the areas marked in red which gave me some room to move the whole assembly forward a fraction of an inch to get that sorted out.

Apologies for not taking a photo of the actual part when it was finished!

The next image is the actual assembly bolted to the manifold:

... and the last one shows the cables lined up with the throttle ball connector:

The throttle cable is still a little curved as it's close to the firewall but it's a good starting point for further adjustment.

Here are the Edelbrock parts that were needed for my truck - which has a C6 transmission, which needed the shift cable linkage extender as well. The carburetor is an Edelbrock AVS2 650 CFM with an electric choke.

Throttle Lever Adapter: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1483

Transmission Shift Cable Extension: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8011

Cable Plate: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1491

I hope this helps anyone else that is looking at making this carburetor change. If you have any questions, post on this thread or PM me.

Thanks!

Thanks for the followup and thoroughness. That should definitely help others in the future.

Your installation looks good. You are going to like that setup.

[85lebaront2]

Hi everyone,

Ok, after ordering an Edelbrock carburetor kick out plate and then expanding some of the holes in that plate, I have a much cleaner set up. The throttle isn't ideal, but it's a much more effective arrangement.

The first image below is the extender plate that the factory throttle cable plate bolts onto. It all then bolts into the intake manifold. The red circles indicate the holes that I had to trim out with a Dremel and diamond tipped grinding bit.

When I used the factory holes, I could only get one to line up with the manifold, so I extended one of them which ensured that I could use two of the holes to bolt it to the manifold.

The issue then was that the actual cable ball connector cup was a fraction too short, which when connected to the throttle ball, caused the engine to idle at around 1,200-1,500 rpm. By manually pulling the connector forward, the RPM's dropped to idle so, I took it all apart and then ground out the areas marked in red which gave me some room to move the whole assembly forward a fraction of an inch to get that sorted out.

Apologies for not taking a photo of the actual part when it was finished!

The next image is the actual assembly bolted to the manifold:

... and the last one shows the cables lined up with the throttle ball connector:

The throttle cable is still a little curved as it's close to the firewall but it's a good starting point for further adjustment.

Here are the Edelbrock parts that were needed for my truck - which has a C6 transmission, which needed the shift cable linkage extender as well. The carburetor is an Edelbrock AVS2 650 CFM with an electric choke.

Throttle Lever Adapter: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1483

Transmission Shift Cable Extension: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8011

Cable Plate: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1491

I hope this helps anyone else that is looking at making this carburetor change. If you have any questions, post on this thread or PM me.

Thanks!

Excellent job sir! Shame your "mechanic" wasn't knowledgeable or competent enough to do the job right the first time. One small suggestion, on the cruise control cable mount, is there room to bend it in slightly so the cable pull is straighter?

In my shop, I used to have a container where extra pieces of installation kits were put, along with removed factory brackets (unless the customer wanted them back, and we always asked). That way we had a "stash" of strange looking brackets, extensions etc. to make these jobs easier.

[Quarterwave]

Excellent job sir! Shame your "mechanic" wasn't knowledgeable or competent enough to do the job right the first time. One small suggestion, on the cruise control cable mount, is there room to bend it in slightly so the cable pull is straighter?

In my shop, I used to have a container where extra pieces of installation kits were put, along with removed factory brackets (unless the customer wanted them back, and we always asked). That way we had a "stash" of strange looking brackets, extensions etc. to make these jobs easier.

Thanks everyone.

85lebaron2 - yes, there is room behind to straighten it out a bit and I hope to get that done this weekend.

My primary goal was to get the mechanism working, which it is now doing.

I agree 100% with the "parts bin". I can imagine how they would come in handy sometimes.

[Jason2215]

Thanks everyone.

85lebaron2 - yes, there is room behind to straighten it out a bit and I hope to get that done this weekend.

My primary goal was to get the mechanism working, which it is now doing.

I agree 100% with the "parts bin". I can imagine how they would come in handy sometimes.

I wanted to resurrect this to say it DID help someone as I have just purchased the same 650. I had bought 1483 and 1491 assuming they’d be required but it looks like I’ll need the third part you mentioned as well. It’s not lining up correctly for me. I don’t have cruise control so I think that’s the only difference. Also my manifold is a Weiand Stealth.

[Gary Lewis]

I wanted to resurrect this to say it DID help someone as I have just purchased the same 650. I had bought 1483 and 1491 assuming they’d be required but it looks like I’ll need the third part you mentioned as well. It’s not lining up correctly for me. I don’t have cruise control so I think that’s the only difference. Also my manifold is a Weiand Stealth.

Good to know, Jason. Thanks for the follow up.