Rembrant Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 How is the module mounted? Would it be beneficial if I allowed more air flow underneath it? That probably wouldn't hurt (or to use a heat sink like Vinny is suggesting). There is a pic of a lifted box in one of threads above. For the few cents is costs, probably not a bad idea. The plastic fender liner isn't dissipating any heat. There was a comment in one of the threads linked above where the guy said he was melting a module every six months until he moved it into the cab somewhere. After that, no more issues. In his particular case, it sounds like the engine bay heat was killing it, OR there was a wiring issue that he inadvertently fixed when he ran new wires into the cab. Interesting stuff none the less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 I took my ‘81 to BHC this August and the ambient temp was 122*F, plus whatever the engine bay and coil current added. Jon, I swear to god even reading that makes me start to perspire... I've only been to AZ a few times, and the last trip when I did Camelback Mountain it was only around 110-111*F. However, I've spent a little bit of time in the middle east, and have experienced 122*F. My pale Canadian skin likes it much better when it's only about 75 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 How is the module mounted? Would it be beneficial if I allowed more air flow underneath it? That probably wouldn't hurt (or to use a heat sink like Vinny is suggesting). There is a pic of a lifted box in one of threads above. For the few cents is costs, probably not a bad idea. The plastic fender liner isn't dissipating any heat. There was a comment in one of the threads linked above where the guy said he was melting a module every six months until he moved it into the cab somewhere. After that, no more issues. In his particular case, it sounds like the engine bay heat was killing it, OR there was a wiring issue that he inadvertently fixed when he ran new wires into the cab. Interesting stuff none the less. Spacing the module up may help. But you can also gain a bit of cooling by stacking another module above that one this way. It doesn't dramatically help as the contact area of the nuts and bolts is relatively small, but at least the backup unit is ready to go when/if the time comes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Jon, I swear to god even reading that makes me start to perspire... I've only been to AZ a few times, and the last trip when I did Camelback Mountain it was only around 110-111*F. However, I've spent a little bit of time in the middle east, and have experienced 122*F. My pale Canadian skin likes it much better when it's only about 75 degrees. Unfortunately I never got my AC install done, so yeah... I couldn’t wait to get back over the mountain to Golden Valley where it was only 107*F ha ha. I had a cooler full of ice water and rags. I would not have gone except we found a deal on some water haul tanks that I didn’t want to miss out on. The truck did fine though, no overheating even on the long climb out of BHC. And no melted DSII 👍 Edit: and now it’s our turn to enjoy the 70’s*F 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neoniacin Posted November 20, 2018 Author Share Posted November 20, 2018 Jon, I swear to god even reading that makes me start to perspire...:nabble_smiley_oh:I've only been to AZ a few times, and the last trip when I did Camelback Mountain it was only around 110-111*F. However, I've spent a little bit of time in the middle east, and have experienced 122*F. My pale Canadian skin likes it much better when it's only about 75 degrees.Unfortunately I never got my AC install done, so yeah... I couldn’t wait to get back over the mountain to Golden Valley where it was only 107*F ha ha. I had a cooler full of ice water and rags. I would not have gone except we found a deal on some water haul tanks that I didn’t want to miss out on. The truck did fine though, no overheating even on the long climb out of BHC. And no melted DSII 👍Edit: and now it’s our turn to enjoy the 70’s*F 🙂Got my module today and was going to install it but but the old connectors are too corroded for my liking. See below for pics Is there a good way to clean them before putting new module in? Especially inside where the contacts are. Just use contact cleaner and a brush? Oh and here is the new one next to old one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 I've used a CRC electrical contact cleaner pretty successfully on connectors like that. That and a nylon brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
can0fspam Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 How is the module mounted? Would it be beneficial if I allowed more air flow underneath it? That probably wouldn't hurt (or to use a heat sink like Vinny is suggesting). There is a pic of a lifted box in one of threads above. For the few cents is costs, probably not a bad idea. The plastic fender liner isn't dissipating any heat. There was a comment in one of the threads linked above where the guy said he was melting a module every six months until he moved it into the cab somewhere. After that, no more issues. In his particular case, it sounds like the engine bay heat was killing it, OR there was a wiring issue that he inadvertently fixed when he ran new wires into the cab. Interesting stuff none the less. I never have melted a module, but I had problems over the summer where my box would stop working when the temperature outside neared triple digits. I replaced the box, and it happened less often but still was likely to kill the motor if I tried to go up a big hill. I finally put some washers between the box and the inner fender to give it airflow, and that fixed the problem completely. It has never had that problem again, and it fixed it immediately. I would highly recommend it to everyone even if your box hasn't overheated yet. It goes to show, most of my biggest and most important fixes I do on this truck are either free or ridiculously cheap -- and easy. It likes to teach me lessons about working with what I've got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neoniacin Posted November 20, 2018 Author Share Posted November 20, 2018 I never have melted a module, but I had problems over the summer where my box would stop working when the temperature outside neared triple digits.I replaced the box, and it happened less often but still was likely to kill the motor if I tried to go up a big hill. I finally put some washers between the box and the inner fender to give it airflow, and that fixed the problem completely.It has never had that problem again, and it fixed it immediately. I would highly recommend it to everyone even if your box hasn't overheated yet.It goes to show, most of my biggest and most important fixes I do on this truck are either free or ridiculously cheap -- and easy. It likes to teach me lessons about working with what I've got.I plan on increasing the airflow by adding spacers. Seems to be the easiest way. I’ll pick up some contact cleaner tomorrow and clean the connectors up. I’ll keep the melted one as an emergency backup as it was working. Just as a side note.....what other parts does everyone else keep in the cab for emergencies? I have a starter solenoid, vacuum caps, hose clamps, and now this module. Anyone have recommendations for anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
can0fspam Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 This isn't only parts but also some less common tools I always keep with me... Make sure you have jumper cables, not just for jump starting, but in case something electrical stops working. I had to use them in the middle of a long road trip because I pulled into a gas station and the truck wouldn't turn back on! No dash lights, no starter, nothing. I jumped the battery power straight to the starter and got the truck to start right up and get me to the parts store. Turned out to be a shoddy connection from the battery to the starter solenoid -- truck could only run off the alternator till I fixed it. Other than that, I keep some bailing wire in case I need to replace a cotter pin (still have wire in my clutch linkage instead of pins -- I really should replace that) and wire also helps to hang up exhaust or anything hangy if it gets knocked down partially. You could wire your choke in position if that goes out and you have to drive somewhere... or you could use the little wire to poke an obstruction out of the carburetor or clean up an electrical connector on the side of the road. Make sure you have wire cutters too -- otherwise you won't be able to do much with your wire! Keep channel locks in case you need to remove a stripped nut. I had to use channel locks on one of my fuel line nuts because it was unbelievably rounded off. Ended up converting to a soft fuel line with an inline filter. It's always a good idea to keep extra bulbs too -- whether they're the little 194 interior bulbs or the exterior ones. Might even help to have a sealed beam lamp somewhere if you have room. I keep a nice little rubber mallet under the seat. Haven't needed it much but it's sure a whole lot better than using your hand to give something a good whack if you need to mess with a drum brake or a u-joint or the like. My friend borrowed it once when his Ranger blew a u-joint, and it came in handy that day for sure! Last but not least I always swear by zip ties. A pack of 100 is super cheap and they'll fit anywhere in the truck. You can use them to keep wires or hoses out of the way or attach something back together if it's not load-bearing. I keep on using them, usually for "temporary" fixes, but I would not go anywhere without a pack or two under the seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vjsimone Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY = k = W/(m k) MATERIAL @25C Diamond 1000 Silver 429 Copper 401 Gold 310 Lithium 301 Beryllium 218 Aluminium 205 Tungsten 174 Graphite 168 Pinchbeck 159 Magnesium 156 AIR 000.025 Maybe 0.025 W/m.K. is all that is needed to keep the failing boxes at bay.. Time will tell... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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