Heater Cable Help

[Dyn Blin]

Good afternoon all,

While I was troubleshooting my "always on" heat today, I snapped the temperature control cable.

Which one of these do I look for (From Gary's helpful parts page)?

I presume they are no longer offered at the dealer, so eBay and junk yard?

[Gary Lewis]

I think since you have an '82, and assume that you have Integral A/C, that it is E0TZ 19988-A. And Rear Counter says there's one in captivity: https://www.rearcounter.com/E0TZ-19988-A-parts194938.html. You can email that dealer for pricing. But, you might also send them a pic of yours to ensure it is the right one. One of the changes had to do with the mounting style, and another had to do with the shape of the end of the cable.

Having said that, I might have one, although I don't know how easy it is to tell. So could you post a pic here of both ends?

[85lebaront2]

I think since you have an '82, and assume that you have Integral A/C, that it is E0TZ 19988-A. And Rear Counter says there's one in captivity: https://www.rearcounter.com/E0TZ-19988-A-parts194938.html. You can email that dealer for pricing. But, you might also send them a pic of yours to ensure it is the right one. One of the changes had to do with the mounting style, and another had to do with the shape of the end of the cable.

Having said that, I might have one, although I don't know how easy it is to tell. So could you post a pic here of both ends?

If only the inner core is broken a lawn and garden shop might have bulk inner wire so you can make a new piece.

[Ford F834]

If only the inner core is broken a lawn and garden shop might have bulk inner wire so you can make a new piece.

Usually it is the plastic tab that secures the cable sheath to the heater box that fails. Without that the wire inside has nothing to pull against.

[Dyn Blin]

I think since you have an '82, and assume that you have Integral A/C, that it is E0TZ 19988-A. And Rear Counter says there's one in captivity: https://www.rearcounter.com/E0TZ-19988-A-parts194938.html. You can email that dealer for pricing. But, you might also send them a pic of yours to ensure it is the right one. One of the changes had to do with the mounting style, and another had to do with the shape of the end of the cable.

Having said that, I might have one, although I don't know how easy it is to tell. So could you post a pic here of both ends?

Hmm, I thought I added a line that said "base heat, no AC", but it's gone.

It's definitely the inner wire, snapped at the control elbow behind the control panel.

Sun is behind the hill and I re-fitted the dash-top after. I'll take a pic and post it next week.

Great idea on the lawn shop, too. Thanks gentlemen.

[Gary Lewis]

Hmm, I thought I added a line that said "base heat, no AC", but it's gone.

It's definitely the inner wire, snapped at the control elbow behind the control panel.

Sun is behind the hill and I re-fitted the dash-top after. I'll take a pic and post it next week.

Great idea on the lawn shop, too. Thanks gentlemen.

Given that, yours should be E1TZ 18518-A. But replacing the wire might be the way to go.

[Dyn Blin]

If only the inner core is broken a lawn and garden shop might have bulk inner wire so you can make a new piece.

'finishing this thread out- I found a small engine repair shop that had a couple loops of scrap oil-tempered spring steel push-pull wire that did the trick. It slipped right into the sheath.

The only "tough" part was accessing the upside down screw that secured the end to the adjustment lever behind the dash control. In hindsight, I likely didn't need to even remove it, but I did so to get as straight a path as I could when I was threading the new wire in. The only other part that required caution was removing the retaining clip on the plastic adjustment arm that connects to the control lever on the console- that plastic is pretty brittle.

$5 and a good Ford conversation and I am good to go. I'll post back with the gauge diameter and working length for future reference.

EDIT: 18 gauge and 55" between the loops to secure the ends.

[grumpin]

'finishing this thread out- I found a small engine repair shop that had a couple loops of scrap oil-tempered spring steel push-pull wire that did the trick. It slipped right into the sheath.

The only "tough" part was accessing the upside down screw that secured the end to the adjustment lever behind the dash control. In hindsight, I likely didn't need to even remove it, but I did so to get as straight a path as I could when I was threading the new wire in. The only other part that required caution was removing the retaining clip on the plastic adjustment arm that connects to the control lever on the console- that plastic is pretty brittle.

$5 and a good Ford conversation and I am good to go. I'll post back with the gauge diameter and working length for future reference.

EDIT: 18 gauge and 55" between the loops to secure the ends.

That's great! Good job!

[Gary Lewis]

'finishing this thread out- I found a small engine repair shop that had a couple loops of scrap oil-tempered spring steel push-pull wire that did the trick. It slipped right into the sheath.

The only "tough" part was accessing the upside down screw that secured the end to the adjustment lever behind the dash control. In hindsight, I likely didn't need to even remove it, but I did so to get as straight a path as I could when I was threading the new wire in. The only other part that required caution was removing the retaining clip on the plastic adjustment arm that connects to the control lever on the console- that plastic is pretty brittle.

$5 and a good Ford conversation and I am good to go. I'll post back with the gauge diameter and working length for future reference.

EDIT: 18 gauge and 55" between the loops to secure the ends.

Cool! Easy enough fix for what seems to be a fairly common problem. But the measurements will surely help someone. TIA.