Flareside bedsides on Ebay?

[Rembrant]

They REALLY look good!

So, I had new stake pockets and extension panels made at a local sheet metal shop. Unfortunately they made the two rear pockets incorrectly so I have to pick the replacements up sometime this week. Did a dry fit on the front pockets this morning and I think they're going to work great.

They made the extension panels a little too thick I think, but I don't think it will matter all that much.

My only issue now is, I had kind of planned on having the sheet metal shop spot-weld these in place for me for a factory look, but they are telling me that they cannot do it. So I'll have to weld them. Has anybody ever tried one of those spot-weld tips for their MIG welder? Or, should I just do plug-welds? If yes to the plug welds, what size holes should I drill? 1/8"? 1/4"? The factory spot welds look to be around 5/16" or so and are spaced about every 2".

My second question is, does anybody have any recommendations on what do do with the bare metal areas that I won't be able to paint? Primer or just leave them bare? I assume that when the panels were made originally they were probably painted shortly after they were spot welded together. I'm going to build the bed first to get everything fitted properly, and then disassemble it to paint it...or at least that is what my plan was.

[Gary Lewis]

So, I had new stake pockets and extension panels made at a local sheet metal shop. Unfortunately they made the two rear pockets incorrectly so I have to pick the replacements up sometime this week. Did a dry fit on the front pockets this morning and I think they're going to work great.

They made the extension panels a little too thick I think, but I don't think it will matter all that much.

My only issue now is, I had kind of planned on having the sheet metal shop spot-weld these in place for me for a factory look, but they are telling me that they cannot do it. So I'll have to weld them. Has anybody ever tried one of those spot-weld tips for their MIG welder? Or, should I just do plug-welds? If yes to the plug welds, what size holes should I drill? 1/8"? 1/4"? The factory spot welds look to be around 5/16" or so and are spaced about every 2".

My second question is, does anybody have any recommendations on what do do with the bare metal areas that I won't be able to paint? Primer or just leave them bare? I assume that when the panels were made originally they were probably painted shortly after they were spot welded together. I'm going to build the bed first to get everything fitted properly, and then disassemble it to paint it...or at least that is what my plan was.

Cory - Those pockets look really good. But I think you'll want to paint them with a weld-through primer to protect the backside as well as the space between the pockets and the bed.

I've not used one of the spot-weld tips, but I have done a number of plug welds. And with a bit of practice those usually turn out pretty nice. As for size, I've always used 1/4". And by the time you weld them I suspect they'll be at least 5/16" so you might want to go a bit smaller, like 3/16". But you have the pockets that aren't quite right to test.

[Rembrant]

But you have the pockets that aren't quite right to test.

Yes, and I have a couple square feet of this same steel to do some test welds on. I'll do some trial runs this week to get ready for welding it all together. I don't have any of that weld-through primer, but I'll get some this week as well. Any suggestions on sanding disk(s) to smooth the welds out afterwards, as in what grits to use?

I don't know about anybody else's trucks, but my Flareside has blue paint inside the stake pockets, so Ford at least tried to get some in there...

I'll be spraying some rust inhibitor in there anyway, but I don't want to be scared to take this thing out in the rain, so I'll have to do something with the bare metal.

 

[Gary Lewis]

But you have the pockets that aren't quite right to test.

Yes, and I have a couple square feet of this same steel to do some test welds on. I'll do some trial runs this week to get ready for welding it all together. I don't have any of that weld-through primer, but I'll get some this week as well. Any suggestions on sanding disk(s) to smooth the welds out afterwards, as in what grits to use?

I don't know about anybody else's trucks, but my Flareside has blue paint inside the stake pockets, so Ford at least tried to get some in there...

I'll be spraying some rust inhibitor in there anyway, but I don't want to be scared to take this thing out in the rain, so I'll have to do something with the bare metal.

I would be tempted to paint the inside of the pockets as well as the bed in the area under the pockets with both weld-through primer as well as the finish paint. And then clean the spots to be welded to ensure you can strike an arc.

Yes, the finish paint will burn, but probably only right around the weld and not where it can be seen. And the primer should protect the metal.

As for sanding the welds, I use my 4 1/2" right-angle grinder and a flap wheel. But I'm usually welding and grinding on 1/8" thick stuff, so I use a pretty aggressive grit to start with, like 60 or 80. However, I have some really fine stuff, like 220 or finer, that I use to smooth things with, and with the thin metal you'll be working on you'd better go with fine wheels.

Having said all that, I'd check with people that do this all the time, like Pete or Dave. I'll bet they know how to paint the stuff and what grit to use.

[Rembrant]

I've not used one of the spot-weld tips, but I have done a number of plug welds. And with a bit of practice those usually turn out pretty nice. As for size, I've always used 1/4".

Did some plug weld tests and I think the 1/4" holes will work the best Gary. Hopefully I can get this these sides assembled next weekend.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I've not used one of the spot-weld tips, but I have done a number of plug welds. And with a bit of practice those usually turn out pretty nice. As for size, I've always used 1/4".

Did some plug weld tests and I think the 1/4" holes will work the best Gary. Hopefully I can get this these sides assembled next weekend.

I don't think you'll even want to dress them.

[reamer]

I don't think you'll even want to dress them.

Cory, those are great welds!

[Rembrant]

Cory, those are great welds!

Ron,

I think they're as close as I can get to fake spot welds. The factory spot welds are every 2" or so along the flanges. With a 1/4" hole drilled in the top piece, I can plug-weld like in the picture. Ideally, I need to time it just so that the puddle is almost flush with the steel. I need to do this consistently about a 100 times...that might be too much to ask though...we'll see.

The shop didn't bend the stake pockets quite as nice as I'd like them to be, but they're not bad. Installed and covered in paint most people wouldn't notice.

[Gary Lewis]

Cory, those are great welds!

Ron,

I think they're as close as I can get to fake spot welds. The factory spot welds are every 2" or so along the flanges. With a 1/4" hole drilled in the top piece, I can plug-weld like in the picture. Ideally, I need to time it just so that the puddle is almost flush with the steel. I need to do this consistently about a 100 times...that might be too much to ask though...we'll see.

The shop didn't bend the stake pockets quite as nice as I'd like them to be, but they're not bad. Installed and covered in paint most people wouldn't notice.

I don't think anyone will ever know. But, 100 welds is a lot. Wow!

[Rembrant]

I don't think anyone will ever know. But, 100 welds is a lot. Wow!

Well, maybe it's only about 80...I didn't count them exactly, but four stake pockets and 4 extension panels. 20 welds per corner.