kristopherdb Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 I just had to straighten out a wiring mess in the rear of my F250. I would get the front and the left rear parking lights. No right or license plate lights. Found a bad connection where the parking lights were tied in to the trailer plug. Ill give that a look this week, tonight after work is supposed to be hot so I will be hiding from the sun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mp470 Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 Ill give that a look this week, tonight after work is supposed to be hot so I will be hiding from the sun! Meanwhile we're getting ready for winter over here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 Meanwhile we're getting ready for winter over here... It'll be 93 degrees here on Saturday for the show. What's winter? 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristopherdb Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 It'll be 93 degrees here on Saturday for the show. What's winter? 😳 ok I got a tester finally and took care of the trailer mess in the back still no lights and I am not getting any power to the blower and or turn signal fuses. Could this be because my wiper switch is disconnected? I followed the wiring diagram as suggested and I have never read one before so bare with me, I have no parking lights, no license plate lights, no backup lights, no turn signals, and no power to those two fuses. If I touch the center pin on the parking bulb I get a ground tone. That tells me I am getting ground to the power somehow right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 ok I got a tester finally and took care of the trailer mess in the back still no lights and I am not getting any power to the blower and or turn signal fuses. Could this be because my wiper switch is disconnected? I followed the wiring diagram as suggested and I have never read one before so bare with me, I have no parking lights, no license plate lights, no backup lights, no turn signals, and no power to those two fuses. If I touch the center pin on the parking bulb I get a ground tone. That tells me I am getting ground to the power somehow right? Kristopher - We are going to have to divide and conquer these problems. Let's do the power to the fuses first - you don't have power to Fuse 5, which is the Turn/Stop/Hazard one, nor Fuse 9, which is the A/C-Heat fuse. Right? From the drawing on Page 13 of the 1981 EVTM those two fuses, and only those fuses, are fed by the gray/yellow (GY/Y) wire from the ignition switch, with nothing in between. So, you need to confirm if that wire has power on it when the key is in Run. If not, and assuming the big Yellow wires feeding the switch are hot at all times, then your ignition switch has a problem. Here's the schematic from Page 13 with some markups: Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristopherdb Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 Kristopher - We are going to have to divide and conquer these problems. Let's do the power to the fuses first - you don't have power to Fuse 5, which is the Turn/Stop/Hazard one, nor Fuse 9, which is the A/C-Heat fuse. Right?From the drawing on Page 13 of the 1981 EVTM those two fuses, and only those fuses, are fed by the gray/yellow (GY/Y) wire from the ignition switch, with nothing in between. So, you need to confirm if that wire has power on it when the key is in Run. If not, and assuming the big Yellow wires feeding the switch are hot at all times, then your ignition switch has a problem.Here's the schematic from Page 13 with some markups:now I am second guessing myself, I had reached under the column to turn the key on and it does have a habit of sticking in start instead of run. I usually notice because my gas says Empty, bump the key back and all is well. I should probably make sure I was not in start before I go any further.  On Fri, Sep 22, 2017 at 8:50 AM, Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:    Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Good plan, Stan. We can pick up from there once you report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 And do you reliaze how these Ford switches are designed? The actual switch is not where the key is inserted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 And do you reliaze how these Ford switches are designed? The actual switch is not where the key is inserted. As explained here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ignition-switch.html. A full-service website. 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 As explained here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ignition-switch.html. A full-service website. 😉 What happens many times with these switches, is the two halves of the diecast metal, start to separate . . . . . causing all kinds of interesting possibilities . . one bad one being fire :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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