85lebaront2 Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 Good info, thank you. Were you able to keep the Bullnose HVAC controls or did you have to use the later one? I changed the dash, steering column and brake pedal along with the parking brake pedal. I wanted to get rid of the crackhead wiring on mine. My dash was also cracked in several places, speaker grille (even though it was a factory stereo) had disintegrated. If you use the same inside ducting the Bullnose controls will work fine, same functions. If you change to later inside ducts, as long as you keep a push-pull temperature cable (later ones are dual cable) then everything will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 I changed the dash, steering column and brake pedal along with the parking brake pedal. I wanted to get rid of the crackhead wiring on mine. My dash was also cracked in several places, speaker grille (even though it was a factory stereo) had disintegrated. If you use the same inside ducting the Bullnose controls will work fine, same functions. If you change to later inside ducts, as long as you keep a push-pull temperature cable (later ones are dual cable) then everything will work. Gotcha. I am partial to the Bullnose interior, even if it isn’t as tight as the later ones... good to know it could still work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 So i need a heater box from a 92-96 to put its evaperator on?It's more-specific than that, but yes. The outside HVAC box must match the evaporator core, and there are at least 2 distinct cores/boxes: https://supermotors.net/getfile/978974/thumbnail/evaps.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1089927/thumbnail/evapcovers.jpg And the hood latch support must match the condenser core (serial-flow R12, or parallel-flow R134a): https://supermotors.net/getfile/978973/thumbnail/latchmts.jpg But the HVAC openings in the firewall didn't change from '80-96 (AFAIK)... '82 - https://supermotors.net/getfile/65189/thumbnail/inside_bare.jpg '93 - https://supermotors.net/getfile/944371/thumbnail/137tan7.jpg ...so swapping any HVAC system among those years is relatively straightforward (as long as you get all the related parts). For a while, I ran the original '83 underhood system with an '87 dash system & control. https://supermotors.net/getfile/160699/thumbnail/87-hvaca.jpg Then I swapped a few underhood parts (with varying levels of success), and eventually swapped to a '93 body tub. Now I'm using '95 underhood & '93 in the dash, but with the upgraded '95-97 temperature cable & control panel. I'm not sure the '92-97 panel will fit the '80-86 dash. Yes, the whole refrigerant system lifts out without losing any refrigerant, and very little coolant (if any). I've swapped several systems on several trucks. This one was blowing cold less than an hour after the guy pulled up in my driveway. https://supermotors.net/getfile/994176/thumbnail/ac95b58.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotorsportXLT Posted November 8, 2018 Author Share Posted November 8, 2018 Sorry I havent been on for a few days... So if I grab the hvac box, and the complete a/c system off of a 95 ford bronco, everything will mount up in my 85 ? And I can use the 85 hvac controls for the system, but I can not use my 85 broncos original A/C wiring harness and plug ins to run the 95 A/C system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 So if I grab the hvac box...The OUTside HVAC box, with the blower motor & evaporator....and the complete a/c system off of a 95 ford bronco...Off any '94-96 Bronco or F-series (& '97 >8500GVWR). For the compressor to bolt up, the donor must have the same shape engine (I6, or smallblock V8) as yours....everything will mount up in my 85 ?If you also swap the hood latch support. You should also grab the 2 rubber flaps between the grill & core support, and probably the one from the core support to the bumper.And I can use the 85 hvac controls for the system...Yes, although the '87-early '88 controls & inside box are slightly better, but NOT necessary and a LOT more work to install (the whole dash has to come out)....but I can not use my 85 broncos original A/C wiring harness and plug ins to run the 95 A/C system?I think you might need to change 1 connector &/or add 1 wire near the accumulator. But generally: yes, the old wiring will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 So if I grab the hvac box...The OUTside HVAC box, with the blower motor & evaporator....and the complete a/c system off of a 95 ford bronco...Off any '94-96 Bronco or F-series (& '97 >8500GVWR). For the compressor to bolt up, the donor must have the same shape engine (I6, or smallblock V8) as yours....everything will mount up in my 85 ?If you also swap the hood latch support. You should also grab the 2 rubber flaps between the grill & core support, and probably the one from the core support to the bumper.And I can use the 85 hvac controls for the system...Yes, although the '87-early '88 controls & inside box are slightly better, but NOT necessary and a LOT more work to install (the whole dash has to come out)....but I can not use my 85 broncos original A/C wiring harness and plug ins to run the 95 A/C system?I think you might need to change 1 connector &/or add 1 wire near the accumulator. But generally: yes, the old wiring will work. Steve83, FWIW, I did the A/C system swap on my 1986, but I had already changed the front sheet metal to 1990 for two reasons, first the PO parked by feel and both front fenders were damaged to a degree, second, I was doing an EFI conversion and the 1990 was the donor vehicle. I was already running an R134a conversion on the 1986 system which worked well other than the hot restart, at which time it would take a bit for the air to get cold. Gary Lewis has documented the blend door's lack of complete sealing of the heater core, that coupled with the uninsulated evaporator case was the most likely cause. When I was doing the EFI conversion, I had obtained a complete system, less condensor and 460 hoses from a 1996 F150 that had been flown in the inverted position. I ordered a new 1994-97 condensor from LKQ along with an accumulator and red orifice tube. I found a compressor hose set for a 351 at Pick-n-Pull which worked, but was a little tight across the upper plenum. I later found a set on a 1994-97 crew cab at Pick-n-Pull that someone had tried to drop a 1988-89 460 into. I did score the oil cooler adapter and hoses though. I was able to mount the 1994-97 condensor to the 1990 radiator support with some small modifications and the end result is a system that will freeze you even in our coastal Eastern VA area where the temperature and humidity race each other (temperature will win some days). One item I found in doing this, there are two different compressor clutch assemblies for the 460, one is the same as the 302, which is the one on mine, the other is larger to lower the compressor speed. Since Darth has the 3.55 gear and now the E4OD I am turning 1500 rpm @ 55 mph and rarely see over 2000 rpm on the highway, accelerating, my EEC-V program is set for a max upshift rpm of 4500 due to a somewhat loose engine (had crap in the oil pump and did some lower end damage), when I install the new engine I will raise this to probably 6000 rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotorsportXLT Posted November 19, 2018 Author Share Posted November 19, 2018 Thank you for all the feedback! I will be doing this conversion in the spring, so I will probably be posting some more questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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