Questions on door speaker sizing

[Rembrant]

Hi Folks,

Now that I have the radio bezel I had been wanting for a year, it's time to start shopping for the rest of the components.

Can anybody tell me what size the factory door speakers are? The document attached below says 5 1/4", but it also says that 6 1/2" will fit (aftermarket). I removed my driver's door card to have a look, and the recess where the speaker would sit is about 6". Just wondering how a 6 1/2" speaker would fit in there? Has anybody installed one? Or should I just order 5 1/4" and forget about it?

Next question...were there ever rear speakers in the regular cab trucks? I was looking through the EVTM, and it showed optional rear speakers...I assume this was for the crew cabs and club cabs?

Just looking for options and opinions I guess. A pair of door speakers would likely be enough for me, but figured I'd ask what the rest of you have installed.

[Pebcak]

Got replaced mine with 6 1/2 and they sound great. I decided to go with all Kicker from Crutchfield.com and haven't been disappointed. Below is all that I purchased.

- Kicker 41DSC654 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers

- XTC 6-1/2-inch pair Slim Speaker Baffles

I also got this off of Amazon too complete the sound in the truck.

- New Kicker 43TC104 10" 300W Subwoofer + Sub Box + Boss R1100M 1100W Amp +Amp Kit

Of you look at the picture gallery you can see what I took of the installs when I did the speakers, amp, sub and the Bluetooth Amp in the dash.

My radio broke and I wanted to keep the "stock" look in my truck so I put the Bluetooth amp in below. See below.

- BOSS Audio ASK902B.6 Marine 500 Watt 4 Channel Amplifier / 6.5 Inch Speaker Bluetooth System, Bluetooth Remote, USB Auxiliary Interface Mount

Let me know if you want any other info.

[Rembrant]

Got replaced mine with 6 1/2 and they sound great. I decided to go with all Kicker from Crutchfield.com and haven't been disappointed. Below is all that I purchased.

- Kicker 41DSC654 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers

- XTC 6-1/2-inch pair Slim Speaker Baffles

Let me know if you want any other info.

Excellent, thank you for the info. I went and looked at your pics as well. So the speaker fit into the recess in the door OK? I guess in that case I can just go with 6.5" speakers if I know they fit OK.

 

[Pebcak]

Got replaced mine with 6 1/2 and they sound great. I decided to go with all Kicker from Crutchfield.com and haven't been disappointed. Below is all that I purchased.

- Kicker 41DSC654 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers

- XTC 6-1/2-inch pair Slim Speaker Baffles

Let me know if you want any other info.

Excellent, thank you for the info. I went and looked at your pics as well. So the speaker fit into the recess in the door OK? I guess in that case I can just go with 6.5" speakers if I know they fit OK.

They fit without having to cut anything. I can't remember if it was my truck it another one of our vehicles that I had to drill some new holes for the screws to line up.

That's the most you'll have to do if you've got doors like mine.

[Rembrant]

They fit without having to cut anything. I can't remember if it was my truck it another one of our vehicles that I had to drill some new holes for the screws to line up.

That's the most you'll have to do if you've got doors like mine.

What is that sound deadening material you used?

[Pebcak]

What is that sound deadening material you used?

I used Aluminium Roof Tape as an experiment. Looking at all the stats and other research, it's almost the same as the expensive Dynomat. Only thing I did when I installed it was to overlap about an inch so make sure it was all covered and stuck together.

It's worked so far. No complaints yet. I did the doors and the floor in the cab.

Since putting the Sub and everything in, I can hear it great inside and hardly at all outside even when it's up 100% and the windows open.

[Dyn Blin]

I used Aluminium Roof Tape as an experiment. Looking at all the stats and other research, it's almost the same as the expensive Dynomat. Only thing I did when I installed it was to overlap about an inch so make sure it was all covered and stuck together.

It's worked so far. No complaints yet. I did the doors and the floor in the cab.

Since putting the Sub and everything in, I can hear it great inside and hardly at all outside even when it's up 100% and the windows open.

I went a slightly different route. I took the opportunity to treat & prime the inside of the door to mitigate any rust before I sealed it back up. Then I used a Dynomat door kit (no reason why that product over any other choice besides a discount on the kit) to cover the inside of the outer door shell. Then I cut more to fit over the openings of the inner door shell, then covered with a vapor barrier (some closed cell foam insulation) then finally, used some of the precut door insulation tacked to the inside of the door card.

It may be overkill, but the speaker fidelity is great, road noise was cut by 2-3 decibels, even on the hottest day, the door panel/card stays cool, so I know there is some R factor at work, and best of all, the door closing doesn't sound like a screen door slamming shut.

Before- testing fit of a 6.5

Interior of door primed with MasterCoat Silver, then tiled with DynoMat (only about 50% coverage needed for acoustic benefits), then inside shell openings sealed.

Cover with vapor barrier of closed cell foam

Then precut OEM - style insulation from Bronco Graveyard fitted to inside of door panel/card

Final after refinishing door

(Edit for better pic embedding)

[Rembrant]

I went a slightly different route. I took the opportunity to treat & prime the inside of the door to mitigate any rust before I sealed it back up. Then I used a Dynomat door kit (no reason why that product over any other choice besides a discount on the kit) to cover the inside of the outer door shell. Then I cut more to fit over the openings of the inner door shell, then covered with a vapor barrier (some closed cell foam insulation) then finally, used some of the precut door insulation tacked to the inside of the door card.

It may be overkill, but the speaker fidelity is great, road noise was cut by 2-3 decibels, even on the hottest day, the door panel/card stays cool, so I know there is some R factor at work, and best of all, the door closing doesn't sound like a screen door slamming shut.

Before- testing fit of a 6.5

Interior of door primed with MasterCoat Silver, then tiled with DynoMat (only about 50% coverage needed for acoustic benefits), then inside shell openings sealed.

Cover with vapor barrier of closed cell foam

Then precut OEM - style insulation from Bronco Graveyard fitted to inside of door panel/card

Final after refinishing door

(Edit for better pic embedding)

This is great information, thank you gentlemen! If you're both running 6.5" speakers, then I guess I will do the same. I removed my drivers door card yesterday, and all that is in there is the original brown paper covering that goes right over the speaker location.

I hadn't put much thought into insulated the cab, but I am now...lol. I will do the doors, for sure.

Would it make a big difference to also do the floor? To the rear of the rubber mat I mean.

The original insulation was dirty and rotten enough it's already in the garbage...lol. It had white pads over the exhaust side.

My cab is like an empty soup can...it's all steel, everywhere. No headliner, and barely any trim anywhere. I suppose it would make a big difference in engine/road noiseif I put some effort into insulating it.

[85lebaront2]

This is great information, thank you gentlemen! If you're both running 6.5" speakers, then I guess I will do the same. I removed my drivers door card yesterday, and all that is in there is the original brown paper covering that goes right over the speaker location.

I hadn't put much thought into insulated the cab, but I am now...lol. I will do the doors, for sure.

Would it make a big difference to also do the floor? To the rear of the rubber mat I mean.

The original insulation was dirty and rotten enough it's already in the garbage...lol. It had white pads over the exhaust side.

My cab is like an empty soup can...it's all steel, everywhere. No headliner, and barely any trim anywhere. I suppose it would make a big difference in engine/road noiseif I put some effort into insulating it.

When I did Darth's cab, I also had a factory pad over the exhaust area. I retained that as it was (a) glued down and (b) in good condition. A co-worker in the lab was building a retirement home West of Richmond VA and had a bunch of left over thermal barrier that he gave me. I ran a strip of it along the top of the exhaust pad, another across the rear footwell area and then did the front footwells. I did not add any over the transmission cover or under the seats. Even on a long highway run in hot weather the passenger side (where the exhaust pipes run) stayed comfortable.

Old pad visible, wiring is for right rear window and locks

[Gary Lewis]

This is great information, thank you gentlemen! If you're both running 6.5" speakers, then I guess I will do the same. I removed my drivers door card yesterday, and all that is in there is the original brown paper covering that goes right over the speaker location.

I hadn't put much thought into insulated the cab, but I am now...lol. I will do the doors, for sure.

Would it make a big difference to also do the floor? To the rear of the rubber mat I mean.

The original insulation was dirty and rotten enough it's already in the garbage...lol. It had white pads over the exhaust side.

My cab is like an empty soup can...it's all steel, everywhere. No headliner, and barely any trim anywhere. I suppose it would make a big difference in engine/road noiseif I put some effort into insulating it.

Dyn - Good info, and the pics in the post will be even better.

Cory - There are three aspects to sound treatment:

• Sound deadening: This is what Dynamat and similar things do, and it is usually done with mass, and most effectively done with a flexible mass. The mass lowers the resonant frequency of the panel, thereby reducing the sound transmission of frequencies above that point. And the flexing creates friction, and that turns the vibration into heat and dissipates it.

• Sound isolation: This is done by placing a soft, flexible material between two panels. The firewall insulator is a good example of that as it has a soft material between the firewall and the black, rigid panel. That lets the firewall vibrate and the sound waves get absorbed in the soft material and the black panel doesn't vibrate, as much, so the waves aren't propagated.

• Sound absorption: This is done by the soft material, like the headliner, carpet, and seats. It works best on high frequencies, but makes the room/cab "dead" such that it doesn't echo/reverberate.

It takes all three aspects to create a complete package. And to answer your question about the floor, yes you should. But as Mark said, you only need partial coverage. The spots that have the least reinforcement need the most, so there's no need to put some right at the edges where the next panel attaches as it can't vibrate there. But the flat spots are the main targets. You could also put some on the rear wall of the cab as that vibrates from sound as well.

And if you are going to use a rubber mat, then placing some isolation material between it and the floor turns the mat into the isolation barrier.