viven44 Posted November 27 Posted November 27 4 minutes ago, Chasm18 said: Disregard above. I got it out. I was just wondering what it could be. Was it just hard to get out ? I usually use a screw driver to force out the cylinder
Chasm18 Posted November 27 Author Posted November 27 33 minutes ago, viven44 said: I was just wondering what it could be. I'd say it's either my bad luck or lack of experience. The previous times that I removed the lock cylinder I was able to pull it out by hand. Didn't need to use a screwdriver and pliers like I did today. I did have it installed correctly, with the release button pointing down.
viven44 Posted November 27 Posted November 27 Just now, Chasm18 said: I'd say it's either my bad luck or lack of experience. The previous times that I removed the lock cylinder I was able to pull it out by hand. Didn't need to use a screwdriver and pliers like I did today. I did have it installed correctly, with the release button pointing down. I see. So it wasn't the original one. That makes sense. All the new ones fit really tight. I've had to use a mallet to tap those in before. (Gary, This might be an issue to tackle like the tail lamps.)
mat in tn Posted November 27 Posted November 27 one of the common things in gunsmithing is "final fitting" hand dressing the new part being introduced is not unexpected even though modern processes are generally superior. working on a steering column especially a tilt unit is not that much different. and in many cases I prefer it that way to having a part be too loose or sloppy. parts interchangeability was a major improvement in manufacturing over the years but that is hard enough when staying "in house" so to speak. reverse engineering late in the game has additional challenges. and depending on the costs involved, good enough happens a lot.
Chasm18 Posted November 27 Author Posted November 27 37 minutes ago, viven44 said: I see. So it wasn't the original one. That makes sense. All the new ones fit really tight. I've had to use a mallet to tap those in before. (Gary, This might be an issue to tackle like the tail lamps.) Yes, it wasn't the original lock cylinder...but I had taken this lock cylinder out already as a part of this repair, then replaced it, and tried to take it out again when things weren't right. That's when it got stuck. 1
Chasm18 Posted November 29 Author Posted November 29 Connecting the toothed part to the actuator before installing the collar worked! Since I wasn't confident with the lock cylinder, I decided to exchange it for a new one. I got it home and it was defective. (I could tell before attempting to install it. The key spun freely. There were no "stops". And the center part came out when it shouldn't.) I knew my store only had that 1 in stock, so I went to a different store and they had one that appeared in good working order. Since it's dark:30 I'll get back to it tomorrow. One thing I've found is that this job ain't gonna be over 'til it's all over. I can only hope that comes relatively quickly tomorrow.
Chasm18 Posted December 1 Author Posted December 1 The job is finished. Sliding the collar over the pre-positioned piece pictured above was defiintely the way to go. I had been struggling with that for far too long before learning the right way to do it. Thanks for all the responses! 1
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