Gary Lewis Posted November 14 Posted November 14 13 minutes ago, viven44 said: So, on your truck you measure 10” between bump stop and spring while jacked up ? No, about 8". So only a bit more than you have. The difference is probably in two areas. One is that I have the longer SuperDuty springs. The other is that I have longer shocks which will allow more travel. 1
viven44 Posted November 14 Author Posted November 14 (edited) 13 hours ago, Gary Lewis said: Yes, rear can do that. Dad taught me to tighten the adjuster wheel until I can’t rotate the tire by hand. Bang on the backing plate with a rubber mallet to center the shoes, and go again. When you finally can’t turn the tire by hand even after banging on the backing plate loosen the adjust 10 clicks. Checked the rear this morning. With engine running and brakes applied, both sides apply and release well. Without engine running I could not get the brakes to apply on either side (I prop a long screw driver between the seat and the brake pedal). No obvious reason for the pull. But I do have glazing on the rotors. Not all rust removed from the truck sitting. Maybe just need more hard braking to remove all the glazing. In city driving I hardly have to apply the brakes. The transmission really does 90% of the job. Edited November 14 by viven44
Gary Lewis Posted November 14 Posted November 14 Check to see if you have the Brake Load Sensor Proportioning valve under the bed. You can see it on our page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Proportioning Valve tab. They are prone to having problems which can cause you not to have much, if any, rear brakes. 1
thelastkeg Posted November 14 Posted November 14 I've chased this issue on my 68 Chevelle. Ended up being a swollen rubber brake hose on one of the front wheels. I kept thinking it was the side that it was pulling to was the issue, but it was actually the opposite side in my case. The wheel with the good brake hose was doing its job and stopping, causing the pulling, while the other wheel was much slower to apply the brakes. It's much more pleasant now that the car doesn't try to change lanes when braking hard. 2 1
viven44 Posted November 14 Author Posted November 14 (edited) Converted the XL steering wheel to the Lariat from the parts truck. Glad I kept that column. It is a nice column, but I have no use for it anymore. Edited November 17 by viven44 3
viven44 Posted November 16 Author Posted November 16 Installed Motorcraft SW2328 Temp Sending unit. The machine shop painted the intake and I guess coated the threads with paint so the old unit wasn’t working ? Anyway I scuffed up the threads on the intake and installed new unit. Gauge initially was between M and A After driving it a bit and burping the system a bit it settled right in the middle 3
viven44 Posted November 17 Author Posted November 17 The emissions light came on before the cooling system was burped. I don’t know if there was any correlation there.
viven44 Posted November 17 Author Posted November 17 (edited) Replaced the throttle cable today as it was worn. I could tell the truck was still pretty flat vs. Big Red at WOT, and then I recalled my recent learning experience on the Bronco where the secondaries were not opening!! Could that be it? I was sure it couldn't be because the engine was assembled by a machine shop that builds racing engines.. well unfortunately they didn't get that part right. I guess they must not be using Edelbrocks usually for racing applications. Edit: I was wrong-- see below update on 11/19 Edited November 19 by viven44 1 1
viven44 Posted November 18 Author Posted November 18 Looks like the shop used a 73-74 429/460 intake on this 1986 D9TE engine block. They’ve already plugged the EGR port so this simplifies what I need to do. The rubber base gasket they used seals the bottom effectively. I’ll use a thin metal plate that came with this engine and stack the Edelbrock 9266 over it. That will permit the secondaries to open. 1
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