Lincoln Posted Monday at 05:41 PM Share Posted Monday at 05:41 PM So, while not owning the 1980 F250 Ranger Lariat, but with the chance to buy it from a neighbour, am I in over my head and maybe should move along to something needing less work, if the pullies don’t move when trying to turn it over and can’t seem to get it out of park (with key in the ignition). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted Monday at 05:57 PM Share Posted Monday at 05:57 PM 1 minute ago, Lincoln said: So, while not owning the 1980 F250 Ranger Lariat, but with the chance to buy it from a neighbour, am I in over my head and maybe should move along to something needing less work, if the pullies don’t move when trying to turn it over and can’t seem to get it out of park (with key in the ignition). Welcome, and glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map, which you can see in the menu at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map, and we can add you with a city/state or zip/postal code. Who knows, one of us might be a neighbor and could help you. As for buying a truck, my advice is to buy the most expensive truck you can afford because it is less expensive that way. But let's talk about why you want a truck, what you want to do with it, and your mechanicing skills. If you plan to restore the truck then don't pull one from a field as there will be sooooo many things needing done that you could be overwhelmed. But if you are just looking for something to play with or move stuff around the farm then maybe that's what you want - if you are mechanically adept. Hopefully before trying to turn the engine over you pulled the spark plugs and sprayed oil into the cylinders. Otherwise the rings may be rusted to the cylinder walls. And even if you did you should attempt to turn it over gently, probably by using a 15/16" socket on the crank pully and a large breakover on that. As for getting it out of park, if the steering wheel is up against the pawl in the steering lock then you can't turn the key. Try turning the steering wheel left or right just a bit and see if that frees up the lock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoln Posted Monday at 06:13 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 06:13 PM Thanks, and wow. Lots to consider. I want a truck that I can take into town to pick up grape posts, t-bars, and mainly chemicals. I know nothing mechanical but my 78 year old father does. And I’m in St. Catharines, Ontario. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted Monday at 06:55 PM Share Posted Monday at 06:55 PM You are now on the map. And you aren't that far into Canada. As for your father being 78, I'm 77 1/2 so I understand. He probably grew up needing to do mechanical things as the cars back then required it. So he might be able to guide you. About that truck, it is an early '80 as it has the clear turn signal lenses. Ford changed those to amber in early 1981. And the 1980 trucks are a bit different wiring wise. Not a problem but we just have to remember they are different. An F250 could have the 300 six or 351M or its big brother the 400 - and you can't really tell them apart from the outside. The tranny might be an NP435 4-speed manual or the venerable C6 automatic. The truck doesn't look to have serious rust problems, but that can be a huge issue so you should check it out. Above the rear wheel wells and the rear cab corners are the main spots in the body. And the frame around the rear spring hangers should be checked as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoln Posted Monday at 08:04 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 08:04 PM The owner wants $700 Canadian ($510 US). If my father can’t get the engine to work or be able to shift gears, is there $700 worth of parting out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted Monday at 08:24 PM Share Posted Monday at 08:24 PM It probably depends on what it really has in it, but it is unlikely to be worth that if the engine won't run. Probably the most desirable option it might, remotely have, is the underhood toolbox, which you can read about here. If it happens to have full gauges, meaning an ammeter, oil pressure gauge, and coolant temp then the instrument cluster is something someone would want. And if it had a tach then it is even more valuable. The instrument and radio bezels are not being reproduced, so if those are nice then you could get a bit of money. But all of those things together, and it would be rare to find all of them in good shape, might get you $500 US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoln Posted Monday at 08:37 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 08:37 PM Greatly appreciated. I’ll let you know if I get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoln Posted Monday at 09:02 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 09:02 PM Forgot to ask about engine size. Online says VIN’s start with F but this one seems to start with X X25GKJD2714 more letters and numbers on the plate. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted Monday at 09:44 PM Share Posted Monday at 09:44 PM Our page on VIN Decoding shows that the 1980 VIN is different than later ones. And X25GKJD2714 decodes to: X25: Supercab F250 2wd G: 351, which will be the 351M K: Assembly plant = Kansas City JD2714: Numerical sequence of assembly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted 18 hours ago Share Posted 18 hours ago Welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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