Fuel & Oil Cooler Lines For Dad's Truck

[Gary Lewis]

Just saw this advert for a tool to create braided steel hoses and that got me to thinking about hoses for Dad's truck and want input from y'all.

I'm wanting this to be a very clean engine compartment and don't want to run black rubber hose to the carb from the mechanical fuel pump.  I'd been thinking that I'd run a steel line, but my experience bending steel line hasn't been all that good.  So when I saw this tool the idea of using a braided line seemed good.

And then I got to thinking about the oil cooler lines for the E4OD and the idea of bending steel lines for that is mind boggling.  So, with a bit of searching I see that there's braided steel oil cooler hose available as well.

So, what are your thoughts?  What's the best way to go?  What are the downfalls?  Things to watch out for?

[85lebaront2]

Gary, I have bent many steel lines over the years, and have a couple of tubing benders. It still isn't fun particularly on the brake lines for a 168" wheelbase truck. I found that Ford did the same thing with most of the chassis pipes and tubing, it was sectioned, there was a front and a rear section that would have had a connection where the two joined on a standard cab (133" wheelbase) then could have an extension for the 155" and 168" wheelbase frames. This is what I did when I used the parts from the 1990 F250 133" wheelbase truck on Darth. I simply added the 35" extensions to the brake, fuel and EVAP lines. I definitely wanted the 1990 EVAP piping as it is 3/8" instead of 3/16".

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - I already have stainless brake lines from Inline Tubes, although the fronts aren't installed yet so they may be a problem like the rears were.  And I plan to use Nylon to make the fuel supply line from the tank instead of going back with rubber and steel as it'll be impervious to rust and fuel.  So I only need to do the tranny cooler and fuel pump/carb lines.

And I, too, have a tubing bender.  Several really.  So could do the fuel line - eventually, after some trial and error I'm sure.  But the tranny lines would be far harder than I want to attempt given all the twists and turns they have to make.

I see online where you can order lines to whatever length you need with whatever fittings you want.  But I'm wondering if I can make them myself and, if I'm doing that, why not make the fuel line from the pump to the carb?  I'm just trying to see what others have done and what I can learn.

[viven44]

Bending is never a problem on stainless for me, it’s the flaring part. My cheap flaring tool doesn’t have the capability to flare stainless steel (what happens is the tube will slip through the grip and get all gouged up before it ever flares)…. although the other day I saw a tip on heating the stainless steel with a torch right before flaring .. I haven’t tried that yet. 

[Gary Lewis]

Hadn't really thought about using stainless.  However I should have 'cause I don't want a rusty steel line running up to the carb.  

So I did a Google search for stainless tubing tools and got a hit on Eastwood's $360 flaring tool set.  But at the bottom of the description it says "This unit will not work with stainless lines."  So apparently it isn't easy to flare stainless tubing properly.

Which got me thinking about the copper/nickel tubing, and doing a search for that I found this video from The Stop Shop.  And they say "If your flaring tool costs less than $100 it is not likely to be able to flare stainless steel tubing very well."  But they go on to recommend the nickel/copper line as it is easy to bend, easy to flare, and never rusts.

So it is looking like either nickel/copper or braided stainless hose for the fuel line would be a good way to go.  But I'm not sure I want to attempt to do the cooler lines in nickel/copper and there needs to be some flex in those lines.  So that's looking like braided hose, and if I'm going to do braided hose for that then maybe I should for the fuel line?  

[viven44]

42 minutes ago, Gary Lewis said:

Hadn't really thought about using stainless.  However I should have 'cause I don't want a rusty steel line running up to the carb.  

So I did a Google search for stainless tubing tools and got a hit on Eastwood's $360 flaring tool set.  But at the bottom of the description it says "This unit will not work with stainless lines."  So apparently it isn't easy to flare stainless tubing properly.

Which got me thinking about the copper/nickel tubing, and doing a search for that I found this video from The Stop Shop.  And they say "If your flaring tool costs less than $100 it is not likely to be able to flare stainless steel tubing very well."  But they go on to recommend the nickel/copper line as it is easy to bend, easy to flare, and never rusts.

So it is looking like either nickel/copper or braided stainless hose for the fuel line would be a good way to go.  But I'm not sure I want to attempt to do the cooler lines in nickel/copper and there needs to be some flex in those lines.  So that's looking like braided hose, and if I'm going to do braided hose for that then maybe I should for the fuel line?  

Sorry for the typo. I meant steel.

I used the 3/8 steel line on the bronco. I had the choice between aluminum and steel while I was at summit racing and picked steel as aluminum can be prone to failure from fatigue and physical damage.

But honestly how likely is that to happen on a low pressure fuel line that is supported and clamped safely.

Cost wasn’t a factor. Both were pretty cheap at $1/linear ft.

I also assumed I could flare it mildly just enough to retain a rubber hose but little did I know that is not possible with the tools I have. If I could go back (maybe not much holding me back) I’d like to redo the fuel lines all together with aluminum, along with the return fuel line. I’d use it for anything except brakes.

I am very interested in copper/nickel however, it does seem like a great choice vs aluminum. I am interested to find how easy it is to flare and bend it.

 

Edited Monday at 05:54 PM by viven44

[scbill]

On the subject of fuel/etc line...I need to install a fuel filter, I have had two instances with a plastic string about 1/4" long (bout the size of sewing thread) looking thing

in the float needle valve, where would be the best place, before or after the fuel pump and where if after. I know with past vaporlok problems it needs to be in the coolest spot.

 

Edited to say...What the heck happened!!!!!!!

 

Edited Monday at 06:33 PM by scbill

[Gary Lewis]

Vivek - I tried aluminum tubing on an air compressor line once and the vibrations killed it in short order.  So I went to copper and it never failed.  Haven't used aluminum since.  And with the advent of nickel/copper I doubt I will.

SCBill - Good point about a fuel filter.  I need to explore what nifty filters there are.  But if I'm making my fuel line, either nickel/copper or braided hose, I'm going to want one that screws in rather than has hose fittings.  I think I'd like to put it down by the fuel pump in the vertical run of the fuel line.

[Littlebeefy]

Hi Gary,

I'm sure you've seen my engine compartment. I've got stainless hose all over the place. I made all of those lines myself. Only tools you need to make them is a good set of hose cutters ($50) and a fitting clamp kit that goes in your vice ($20). You can use a cutoff wheel instead of the hose cutter if you want but make sure you clean out the line really well if you do that. You can use a tool like the one in your Facebook ad, I guess. The gold standard for push on fittings is the Kuhl Tool. I didn't use that. I built all of my lines using compression fittings.

I use Aeroquip hose and fittings for some things and Aeroflow for others. I always use the fittings of the same brand as the hose. Aeroquip is available from Summit. I used that for fuel lines. It was the PTFE type. Aeroflow is an Australian company and has a tremendous selection of hose and fittings. Whatever you are trying to do, they have a hose end that will work for it. I don't have an oil cooler but I used their hose and fitting for my oil filter relocation kit. You can order directly from their site (shipped from Australia and takes 2-3 weeks to get to you) or from a site called autoplumb.com in the US.

BTW, I did some stainless brake lines. The flaring tool is critical. Gotta buy that $250 kit or the flares will crack. Even with that tool the flares will crack about 25% of the time. Looks good, though, especially with the gravel guard on it.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Chad.  Yes, I've seen the pics of your engine compartment.  The one below got my attention.  I don't think I want to go as far as you did with the braided hoses, but I have a few questions.

1. Are the radiator and heater hoses just covered with braid?  Or maybe I should just ask you you did it.
    
2. Where does the hose coming out of the PS valve cover go?  I'm assuming that is the PCV line and goes to the back of the carb, but can't tell.
    
3. What do you think of the hydroboost?  I have a kit that I could use on Dad's truck but there's so many hoses involved that I'm inclined to just stay with vacuum.
    
4. How did you tee into the line coming out of the Saginaw?  That's such a mess on Big Blue and that's another reason to stay with vacuum.
    
5. Tell me about your fuel line?  I'm not following it for sure, but it looks like the braided line from the pump goes to a filter but I lose it from there.

Anyway, thanks for the info.