jdavidsmi Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 Was going to say the exact same thing. With the parts you will be replacing, along with cleaning, most any of the 2150 kits will work. It's been a while but I got the kit installed, and it started right up. According to the instruction sheet mine is a 2150A, with feedback control. I was surprised by the amount of dirt, the needle-screen was all but stopped up, and there was a bunch in the bottom of the bowl. my guess is the PO had removed the filter. I have a question about the "pump relief valve assembly" as you can see in the picture the top is broken off, since it is not being used should the hole in the top be plugged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 It's been a while but I got the kit installed, and it started right up. According to the instruction sheet mine is a 2150A, with feedback control. I was surprised by the amount of dirt, the needle-screen was all but stopped up, and there was a bunch in the bottom of the bowl. my guess is the PO had removed the filter. I have a question about the "pump relief valve assembly" as you can see in the picture the top is broken off, since it is not being used should the hole in the top be plugged? David - Glad you got it going. But I don’t know what that valve does. Some online suggest it keeps the accelerator pump from working Whalen vacuum is supplied, but I haven’t found a definitive answer. Perhaps Bill/1985LebaronT2 knows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Blythen Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 David - Glad you got it going. But I don’t know what that valve does. Some online suggest it keeps the accelerator pump from working Whalen vacuum is supplied, but I haven’t found a definitive answer. Perhaps Bill/1985LebaronT2 knows? It doesn't prevent the accelerator pump from working as such, but changes the amount of fuel discharged, according to engine temperature. When cold, the pump discharges it's full volume; then when warmed up the pump volume is reduced, via a PVS. AFAIK, any dirt that gets in that hole cannot go further, as long as the diaphragm is intact. My truck originally had a feedback 2150A carb, on a 302.........and as well as having that valve, it also still had the three linkage holes for varying the accelerator pump stroke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 It doesn't prevent the accelerator pump from working as such, but changes the amount of fuel discharged, according to engine temperature. When cold, the pump discharges it's full volume; then when warmed up the pump volume is reduced, via a PVS. AFAIK, any dirt that gets in that hole cannot go further, as long as the diaphragm is intact. My truck originally had a feedback 2150A carb, on a 302.........and as well as having that valve, it also still had the three linkage holes for varying the accelerator pump stroke. Ken - Thanks for the info. That makes sense. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdavidsmi Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 It doesn't prevent the accelerator pump from working as such, but changes the amount of fuel discharged, according to engine temperature. When cold, the pump discharges it's full volume; then when warmed up the pump volume is reduced, via a PVS. AFAIK, any dirt that gets in that hole cannot go further, as long as the diaphragm is intact. My truck originally had a feedback 2150A carb, on a 302.........and as well as having that valve, it also still had the three linkage holes for varying the accelerator pump stroke. As far as I know the diaphragm is intact. So I'm going to leave out alone. On to the next onion layer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 As far as I know the diaphragm is intact. So I'm going to leave out alone. On to the next onion layer. Good plan, Stan. Hope you like onion rings. 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARIAT 85 Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Unfortunately your signature hasn't shown up yet, so maybe you could just tell us the details about the truck? But, hopefully you found the calibration code today. To give you an idea what can be found if you know the calibration code, let's use code # 4-54R-R12, which is for some of the 1984 & 85 CA trucks. I have a book called 1985 Car & Truck Engine/Emissions Facts Book Summary, which has the information shown below for that calibration code. (Note: I'll be placing the pdf's of this calibration code as well as the 11 others I scanned today on pages on the website. And the pdf's are very sharp/crisp.) And then from the catalog I have the calibration parts list for that calibration code: And then if someone really needs the deep detail on one of the carbs I can post the 4 pages from the catalog that give the scoop. For instance, notice that the parts list shows the carb # as 95.2AP. So, you go down the AP column on this page and following ones from the catalog. From the emissions diagram, I see that cold fast idle is to be set at 2000 RPM. Why would Ford set it so high? I would *think* that cranking up a cold engine in the middle of Winter with an immediate idle of 2000 RPM would be bad for the engine? I have mine set to 1500 RPM, and sometimes I think even that is a little high. I was thinking about trying it at 1250 RPM. This way, fast idle at cold start isn't so high, and the fast idle steps will be even at 1250, step down to 1000, then dropping to normal idle at 750 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 From the emissions diagram, I see that cold fast idle is to be set at 2000 RPM. Why would Ford set it so high? I would *think* that cranking up a cold engine in the middle of Winter with an immediate idle of 2000 RPM would be bad for the engine? I have mine set to 1500 RPM, and sometimes I think even that is a little high. I was thinking about trying it at 1250 RPM. This way, fast idle at cold start isn't so high, and the fast idle steps will be even at 1250, step down to 1000, then dropping to normal idle at 750 RPM. Yes, 2000 for a cold fast-idle isn’t unusual. And yes, it couldn’t be good for the engine. But if your engine gets along with lower RPM at each step then that has to be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Yes, 2000 for a cold fast-idle isn’t unusual. And yes, it couldn’t be good for the engine. But if your engine gets along with lower RPM at each step then that has to be better. From what I remember about fast idle specs, Ford used to call for the setting on the second step (on 2100 and 4100 models where the arrow is) to be @ XXXX rpm hot. Darth specified 2200 rpm on the highest step with the engine warmed up and the EGR disconnected and the hose plugged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARIAT 85 Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 From what I remember about fast idle specs, Ford used to call for the setting on the second step (on 2100 and 4100 models where the arrow is) to be @ XXXX rpm hot. Darth specified 2200 rpm on the highest step with the engine warmed up and the EGR disconnected and the hose plugged. How can you set the cold fast idle speed when the engine is HOT? I set mine by quickly adjusting the fast idle speed screw as soon as the engine was started cold. You have to hurry, because the idle speed will quickly increase as the engine begins to warm up. I just went out and drove Lucille and this is my observation: My cold fast idle is set at 1500 RPM. That is, it initially *starts* there, but then the engine will slowly climb up in RPM if the engine is allowed to run without disturbing it. In fact, it will usually climb up to 1750 RPM within 30 seconds or so, which is when I go ahead and gently blip the throttle to get the idle speed down to the next lower step of 1000 RPM. (This is usually when I drive away. As the engine warms up even more, the idle speed will return to the normal curb idle of 750 RPM.) The 2000 RPM "hot" setting must be what Ford used to get an easier, more consistent adjustment without rushing through the process? i.e. if the "hot" setting is set to 2000 RPM, then perhaps the engine will start at 1750 RPM when the engine is cold? Is that how it works? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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