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1981 straight six manual 4x4 project


Ford F834

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Thanks! The transfer cases swap just fine. I’m guessing the longer sleeve on the front end may have been a strength upgrade? As mentioned recently in Gary’s thread the one with the longer sleeve also had the shift lever pointing up instead of down, and shifts by rotating ccw instead of CW. My linkage still works but the lever is mashed pretty far forward in 2H and at some point I may shorten it. That would be the other difference to check.

If you do end up splitting the case to move the GVOD rear half, consider modifying the pump anchor while you are in there. That is one thing that can make these catastrophically fail. I didn’t do it on mine (yet) but I intend to do it on my diesel’s T-case, and I will do it on my 81’s T-case when I fix the speedometer gear issue...

Ah, didn't think to check the selector position. I'll do that tomorrow afternoon.

I've seen mention of the pump anchor mod but I must not be putting in the right search terms into google. I did find a thread on fsb that included this photo: https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/304463

Do you happen to have any details or a link on the mod?

 

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Ah, didn't think to check the selector position. I'll do that tomorrow afternoon.

I've seen mention of the pump anchor mod but I must not be putting in the right search terms into google. I did find a thread on fsb that included this photo: https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/304463

Do you happen to have any details or a link on the mod?

That pic is basically it... a piece of rod welded to the arm tip. There is a decent write-up here, but the picture links are broken.

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/66992-1356-tcase-refresh-n-swap-not-56k-easy.html#/topics/66992

Another bronco site had three of the pics reposted:

E2115F3C-BD58-4277-99C8-D43B0973FDC9.jpeg.fbd38361441eb58426c3520b370476c9.jpeg

B4BA4555-E1E3-469B-84E9-454F83BFEBFE.jpeg.fd4bc26e1cf1b9a7291eee19679e92b7.jpeg

EF377577-0828-40EF-B2B6-987BE2045A7B.jpeg.481fee4dd9b4d515760e1b1528d098df.jpeg

And here are a couple Internet pics showing the failure that you are trying to prevent:

61AF6A0A-C984-4E61-BD2C-F592D581C318.jpeg.3cc4cdb4baa881389c80abffa0ab0e49.jpeg

66B6C2D6-8ACA-4FB8-B2E1-9D4873D23A6C.jpeg.ce06f62e516edb18905bd0313612f753.jpeg

08A376B8-4ED3-471D-ACD9-F33FB0CBD13D.jpeg.e501cd06238033af6d4cf0053833c00b.jpeg

F6764983-85CB-40C8-A1EA-126C803E06E2.jpeg.e5df13ca83cd4882293e707315e353bb.jpeg

I think you can get the general idea of what needs to happen.... if that anchor chews through the notch and spins out you loose internal oil pressure and it can hang up and mangle things in seconds. I don’t know how common that actually is, but since you have it out of the truck already it’s something to think about, especially if you have access to a welder.

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That pic is basically it... a piece of rod welded to the arm tip. There is a decent write-up here, but the picture links are broken.

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/66992-1356-tcase-refresh-n-swap-not-56k-easy.html#/topics/66992

Another bronco site had three of the pics reposted:

And here are a couple Internet pics showing the failure that you are trying to prevent:

I think you can get the general idea of what needs to happen.... if that anchor chews through the notch and spins out you loose internal oil pressure and it can hang up and mangle things in seconds. I don’t know how common that actually is, but since you have it out of the truck already it’s something to think about, especially if you have access to a welder.

I know this is for a 1356, but does it also apply to a 1345?

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I know this is for a 1356, but does it also apply to a 1345?

Yes it does. I don’t know if there are others, but the 1345 and 1356 both have this Achilles heel 😔

Ok, thanks. I wonder about sending Big Blue's out to be gone through while I'm EFI'ing him. Brandon/Bruno2 and I know a guy that does good work fairly inexpensively, and while I'm sure I could do it there's the time factor. So I might have him go through it to at least weld that rod on.

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Ok, thanks. I wonder about sending Big Blue's out to be gone through while I'm EFI'ing him. Brandon/Bruno2 and I know a guy that does good work fairly inexpensively, and while I'm sure I could do it there's the time factor. So I might have him go through it to at least weld that rod on.

I would do that... at least to modify the arm and put new seals in it if everything else seems okay. It’s just not that hard to do. The only reason I didn’t was I was trying to get mine on the road for the Death Valley trip. I hear you loud and clear on the time factor... that has become my worst project enemy 😩

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I wonder about sending Big Blue's out to be gone through...

Just out of curiosity, where does one send a t-case for service or overhaul? Is there a shop that specializes in these?

Cory - Around here there are several 4wd shops that will do it.

But James, Brandon/Bruno2's neighbor, used to work in a shop that rebuilds drivelines for all sorts of vehicles, right up to and including the tractors for 18-wheelers. He knows his way around transfer cases, driveshafts, transmissions, differentials, etc. So I've had him do several such things for me, and that's probably where I'll take BB's 1345.

Jonathan - Wait until you get to my age. Now I'm realizing that there needs to be a sticker on the windshield that says "Objects in the future are closer than they appear." :nabble_smiley_sad:

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...if you have access to a welder.
Just to be totally clear: NEVER try to weld the case - it's Magnesium alloy. But I don't even weld the arm - I just use a piece of heavy plastic (like a scrap of a wheelwell liner, dealer license plate, or antifreeze jug) to protect the case from the arm.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/937281/thumbnail/pump17.jpg

Steve, I know some plastics can be incredibly tough but if the steel anchor arm can wear through the magnesium case I don’t see a thin layer of plastic being able to stop it. And how would it stay in place? The arm comes out with two bolts. Is there any thing wrong per se with welding on a rod to distribute the force?

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