1981 straight six manual 4x4 project

[Ford F834]

Yes, absolutely run brakes on both axles. My boat trailer came with hydraulic surge brakes on the front axle. But, I wanted the maximum braking I could get so put electric brakes on both axles.

They came as bolt-on hubs with new bearings, brakes, drums, etc. Easy fix.

I will definitely have to look into that. I would love to upgrade those 💩 brakes! The Streamline is getting refurbished after the diesel (or concurrently as time allows), but better brakes (and lights) would be a good start.

Today I began finding out just how different two BW1345 transfer cases could be! Besides the different input shaft stick out, I discovered that the mounting bolts are slightly larger diameter. I had started a couple after placing the case just to hold things, but went to tighten it down and they felt weird (doh!). Luckily I brought the original bolts from the junkyard but I hadn't used them because they are too long for the bottom two holes. There is a very limited amount of space between the transfer case flange and the transmission mount pedestal so I had to cut two of the bolts.

Then I noticed the 4x4 sending unit for the dash light was different. Luckily I kept my old one. Not really a transfer case difference but a related part difference that changed:

I go to sort out the shift linkage and find a problem. On my old transfer case the lever points down. On the new one it points up. There appears to be a set screw on the housing for the linkage shaft, but I removed the screw and the shaft would not come out (I was hoping I could just re clock it). The linkage arm was identical on the new case so I just hooked it up and it does work. The only problem is, I believe it places the shifter too far forward. It really cramps the boot in 2H.

Now here is how my shifter looks... starting at 2H, then 4H, N, 4Lo.

The other potential issue is that maybe I have the wrong boot? The original sat very flat to the floor, but was in poor condition. This boot was a junkyard find. It was from a bullnose but one with the later press on shift knobs, so many things are possible here. Luckily one thing that is possible is to drive and use the truck the way it is. If I want or need to change the way the shift lever sits in the cab I can address it later.

What was the whole point of this? Oh yeah, I was trying to get the speedometer to work... and it does. At least it moves now. I did a dry test in the driveway while both driveshafts were disconnected. It definitely read wrong since I wasn't moving, but I bet it will be more accurate now that I have the driveshafts bolted back in place.

Edit: my windshield glass appointment is at 10:30 Friday morning. I will report the manufacturer and part number of the glass that they ordered once I get my invoice.

[1986F150Six]

Today I began finding out just how different two BW1345 transfer cases could be! Besides the different input shaft stick out, I discovered that the mounting bolts are slightly larger diameter. I had started a couple after placing the case just to hold things, but went to tighten it down and they felt weird (doh!). Luckily I brought the original bolts from the junkyard but I hadn't used them because they are too long for the bottom two holes. There is a very limited amount of space between the transfer case flange and the transmission mount pedestal so I had to cut two of the bolts.

Then I noticed the 4x4 sending unit for the dash light was different. Luckily I kept my old one. Not really a transfer case difference but a related part difference that changed:

I go to sort out the shift linkage and find a problem. On my old transfer case the lever points down. On the new one it points up. There appears to be a set screw on the housing for the linkage shaft, but I removed the screw and the shaft would not come out (I was hoping I could just re clock it). The linkage arm was identical on the new case so I just hooked it up and it does work. The only problem is, I believe it places the shifter too far forward. It really cramps the boot in 2H.

Now here is how my shifter looks... starting at 2H, then 4H, N, 4Lo.

The other potential issue is that maybe I have the wrong boot? The original sat very flat to the floor, but was in poor condition. This boot was a junkyard find. It was from a bullnose but one with the later press on shift knobs, so many things are possible here. Luckily one thing that is possible is to drive and use the truck the way it is. If I want or need to change the way the shift lever sits in the cab I can address it later.

What was the whole point of this? Oh yeah, I was trying to get the speedometer to work... and it does. At least it moves now. I did a dry test in the driveway while both driveshafts were disconnected. It definitely read wrong since I wasn't moving, but I bet it will be more accurate now that I have the driveshafts bolted back in place.

Edit: my windshield glass appointment is at 10:30 Friday morning. I will report the manufacturer and part number of the glass that they ordered once I get my invoice.

As always, your work and reporting are impressive, Jonathan!

[Gary Lewis]

Today I began finding out just how different two BW1345 transfer cases could be! Besides the different input shaft stick out, I discovered that the mounting bolts are slightly larger diameter. I had started a couple after placing the case just to hold things, but went to tighten it down and they felt weird (doh!). Luckily I brought the original bolts from the junkyard but I hadn't used them because they are too long for the bottom two holes. There is a very limited amount of space between the transfer case flange and the transmission mount pedestal so I had to cut two of the bolts.

Then I noticed the 4x4 sending unit for the dash light was different. Luckily I kept my old one. Not really a transfer case difference but a related part difference that changed:

I go to sort out the shift linkage and find a problem. On my old transfer case the lever points down. On the new one it points up. There appears to be a set screw on the housing for the linkage shaft, but I removed the screw and the shaft would not come out (I was hoping I could just re clock it). The linkage arm was identical on the new case so I just hooked it up and it does work. The only problem is, I believe it places the shifter too far forward. It really cramps the boot in 2H.

Now here is how my shifter looks... starting at 2H, then 4H, N, 4Lo.

The other potential issue is that maybe I have the wrong boot? The original sat very flat to the floor, but was in poor condition. This boot was a junkyard find. It was from a bullnose but one with the later press on shift knobs, so many things are possible here. Luckily one thing that is possible is to drive and use the truck the way it is. If I want or need to change the way the shift lever sits in the cab I can address it later.

What was the whole point of this? Oh yeah, I was trying to get the speedometer to work... and it does. At least it moves now. I did a dry test in the driveway while both driveshafts were disconnected. It definitely read wrong since I wasn't moving, but I bet it will be more accurate now that I have the driveshafts bolted back in place.

Edit: my windshield glass appointment is at 10:30 Friday morning. I will report the manufacturer and part number of the glass that they ordered once I get my invoice.

Jonathan - Check Text Section 70.6 pages 3 and 6. The E0TZ 7E440-A is a 4wd light switch, and -B is a lockout switch.

On the clocking, in my experience having it clocked backwards makes your shift pattern backwards. And while that's on an NP208, it should be the same on a BW1345. The arm certainly comes off on the 208 and can go on 180 degrees out. Been there, done that.

And you can make that linkage adjustable by cutting it, welding a nut on each end, and placing a bolt or piece of all-thread in there with another nut for a jam nut. As shown below:

And I'm sure the speedo will be much more accurate with the driveshafts in.

[PetesPonies]

Today I began finding out just how different two BW1345 transfer cases could be! Besides the different input shaft stick out, I discovered that the mounting bolts are slightly larger diameter. I had started a couple after placing the case just to hold things, but went to tighten it down and they felt weird (doh!). Luckily I brought the original bolts from the junkyard but I hadn't used them because they are too long for the bottom two holes. There is a very limited amount of space between the transfer case flange and the transmission mount pedestal so I had to cut two of the bolts.

Then I noticed the 4x4 sending unit for the dash light was different. Luckily I kept my old one. Not really a transfer case difference but a related part difference that changed:

I go to sort out the shift linkage and find a problem. On my old transfer case the lever points down. On the new one it points up. There appears to be a set screw on the housing for the linkage shaft, but I removed the screw and the shaft would not come out (I was hoping I could just re clock it). The linkage arm was identical on the new case so I just hooked it up and it does work. The only problem is, I believe it places the shifter too far forward. It really cramps the boot in 2H.

Now here is how my shifter looks... starting at 2H, then 4H, N, 4Lo.

The other potential issue is that maybe I have the wrong boot? The original sat very flat to the floor, but was in poor condition. This boot was a junkyard find. It was from a bullnose but one with the later press on shift knobs, so many things are possible here. Luckily one thing that is possible is to drive and use the truck the way it is. If I want or need to change the way the shift lever sits in the cab I can address it later.

What was the whole point of this? Oh yeah, I was trying to get the speedometer to work... and it does. At least it moves now. I did a dry test in the driveway while both driveshafts were disconnected. It definitely read wrong since I wasn't moving, but I bet it will be more accurate now that I have the driveshafts bolted back in place.

Edit: my windshield glass appointment is at 10:30 Friday morning. I will report the manufacturer and part number of the glass that they ordered once I get my invoice.

And once you drive it and get a baseline on the speed, it's easy to swap driven gears based on the % your speedo is off.

[Ford F834]

Jonathan - Check Text Section 70.6 pages 3 and 6. The E0TZ 7E440-A is a 4wd light switch, and -B is a lockout switch.

On the clocking, in my experience having it clocked backwards makes your shift pattern backwards. And while that's on an NP208, it should be the same on a BW1345. The arm certainly comes off on the 208 and can go on 180 degrees out. Been there, done that.

And you can make that linkage adjustable by cutting it, welding a nut on each end, and placing a bolt or piece of all-thread in there with another nut for a jam nut. As shown below:

And I'm sure the speedo will be much more accurate with the driveshafts in.

So I see that I am not the first to encounter a flipped transfer case lever... and I did not think about the shift pattern reversal that would result if I turned the lever over 🙄. Looks like I will be modifying the linkage as soon as I get the chance. I'm just grateful that it works the way it is.

I will get a baseline on my speed and see how far I am off. What I expect is that it will read a tad slow with the 235/85R16 tires. Since I am already running a 16T driven gear, I won't be able to speed it up as that is the lowest tooth count you can get. If that is true I will need a ratio adapter to correct it. First things first, now that it's moving let's see how far off it is.

[Gary Lewis]

So I see that I am not the first to encounter a flipped transfer case lever... and I did not think about the shift pattern reversal that would result if I turned the lever over 🙄. Looks like I will be modifying the linkage as soon as I get the chance. I'm just grateful that it works the way it is.

I will get a baseline on my speed and see how far I am off. What I expect is that it will read a tad slow with the 235/85R16 tires. Since I am already running a 16T driven gear, I won't be able to speed it up as that is the lowest tooth count you can get. If that is true I will need a ratio adapter to correct it. First things first, now that it's moving let's see how far off it is.

When does it get to go to work with you?

[Ford F834]

When does it get to go to work with you?

I was hoping for my Wednesday/Thursday scheduled days this week, but unfortunately the glass place couldn't get me in until Friday, and the rims look like they will be here Thursday. Technically I could have driven it in as I have the plates and insurance, but I didn't feel like getting pulled over for the broken windshield that also has paint exploded all over the inside. My next work days are Monday/Tuesday so I should have the glass and wheels/alignment done by then.

Gary, I'm on my phone and can't open the parts catalog. What exactly is the difference between the A and the B? I know B says it is a lockout but what exactly is that? Dennis Carpenter calls it: switch, transfer case lockout light. The one picture of the A version that I could find shows it is shorter and has a yellow top. When I pulled the transfer case from the donor, I traced the wire from this switch and it went through the firewall through its own rubber plug, had a metal spade that plugged into the back side of the fuse block, then had a wire running up to the 4x4 indicator lamp on the dash. I did not see any other function for it. 🤷‍♂️

And I thought NumberDummy said there were no part numbers on parts for our trucks?

 

[Gary Lewis]

I was hoping for my Wednesday/Thursday scheduled days this week, but unfortunately the glass place couldn't get me in until Friday, and the rims look like they will be here Thursday. Technically I could have driven it in as I have the plates and insurance, but I didn't feel like getting pulled over for the broken windshield that also has paint exploded all over the inside. My next work days are Monday/Tuesday so I should have the glass and wheels/alignment done by then.

Gary, I'm on my phone and can't open the parts catalog. What exactly is the difference between the A and the B? I know B says it is a lockout but what exactly is that? Dennis Carpenter calls it: switch, transfer case lockout light. The one picture of the A version that I could find shows it is shorter and has a yellow top. When I pulled the transfer case from the donor, I traced the wire from this switch and it went through the firewall through its own rubber plug, had a metal spade that plugged into the back side of the fuse block, then had a wire running up to the 4x4 indicator lamp on the dash. I did not see any other function for it. 🤷‍♂️

And I thought NumberDummy said there were no part numbers on parts for our trucks?

First, it apparently is a myth that there are no part numbers on our parts. I can look that number up and it is the part number.

Second, beyond what the catalog calls something I can't tell what it really is. I don't an EVTM for an '89 so can't see how they wired it. But, from what you said about the wiring it looks as if it is wired much the same as ours - power to the light from the fuse block and the switch grounds it. And, looking at the switch all it can do is to ground the output. It takes two connections, minimum, for a switch, and the only way it can have two is to use the case ground. And that's what ours does. So, I don't understand the terminology difference.

[ctubutis]

First, it apparently is a myth that there are no part numbers on our parts. I can look that number up and it is the part number.

Second, beyond what the catalog calls something I can't tell what it really is. I don't an EVTM for an '89 so can't see how they wired it. But, from what you said about the wiring it looks as if it is wired much the same as ours - power to the light from the fuse block and the switch grounds it. And, looking at the switch all it can do is to ground the output. It takes two connections, minimum, for a switch, and the only way it can have two is to use the case ground. And that's what ours does. So, I don't understand the terminology difference.

What I remember hearing a LONG time ago - before ND Bill, before the Internet - is that there are "a few" cases where the part number is the same as the engineering ID number. This is the way I remember it from what some parts counterman at a local dealer was telling me (he was looking up a lot of D0ZZ Mustang parts for me).

So, I wouldn't be calling it a myth, only that this is an example of inconsistencies in how Ford does things.

[Ford F834]

I was hoping for my Wednesday/Thursday scheduled days this week, but unfortunately the glass place couldn't get me in until Friday, and the rims look like they will be here Thursday. Technically I could have driven it in as I have the plates and insurance, but I didn't feel like getting pulled over for the broken windshield that also has paint exploded all over the inside. My next work days are Monday/Tuesday so I should have the glass and wheels/alignment done by then.

Gary, I'm on my phone and can't open the parts catalog. What exactly is the difference between the A and the B? I know B says it is a lockout but what exactly is that? Dennis Carpenter calls it: switch, transfer case lockout light. The one picture of the A version that I could find shows it is shorter and has a yellow top. When I pulled the transfer case from the donor, I traced the wire from this switch and it went through the firewall through its own rubber plug, had a metal spade that plugged into the back side of the fuse block, then had a wire running up to the 4x4 indicator lamp on the dash. I did not see any other function for it. 🤷‍♂️

And I thought NumberDummy said there were no part numbers on parts for our trucks?

Friday was glass day. It took two guys over an hour to do the job. Most of this was clean up of the window frame area on the cab. They explained that modern sealant is polyurethane. The old stuff was butyl, and polyurethane does not stick to butyl. To do it right the frame has to be thoroughly cleaned and primered or the polyurethane won't seal. They did a nice job. The glass that is clear all the way to the edges is Fuyao DW911.

I'm not thrilled with the fitment of the windshield trim, the bottom edge has quite a gap next to the glass. Then they took the old windshield out there was a lot of dirt and leaves under it. I may pull a junkyard one later on and see if it fits any better.

Bad news on the rims. The local shop cannot seem to get them. Twice they received the wrong item from their supplier, so the guy told me to move on and buy them elsewhere. This is very unfortunate considering shipping time and wanting to have it done for the trip.

I also discovered I need a new tie rod. I bought one earlier but it was non-greasable so I put the old one back in. When I did the joint tightened up, but after a bit of use it is sloppy again. There is definitely a loosey-goosey dead spot in the steering, and it's the joint. I have another tie rod on order, it should be in tomorrow.

I filled the fuel tank and it took about 12 gallons. It was reading about 1/8 tank before filling which is pretty low, but better that than an overly optimistic gauge! I have not measured the speedometer odometer yet, but I think it may be reading just a bit low. The needle isn't very steady, but it's more of a tremor than a jumping. The cable is new but aftermarket. I could try an OEM cable and a new driven gear to see if it helps.

I think I still need to do some tune up. The exhaust is pretty rich and stinky. New plugs and wires wouldn't hurt since I don't know the history on the ones that are in there, and hopefully I can lean the carb out some. I'm also hearing what I think is an exhaust leak that comes and goes. Maybe the sintered steel donut gasket was a mistake?

I drove it a total of about 40 miles. It ran well and overall I'm pretty happy with it. It is difficult for me to get used to the gearing. Most of the other trucks I've owned have had 4.10's and granny 4 speed (driven like a 3 speed). I keep putting it into the wrong gear for the speed since my auto pilot needs reprogrammed for this set up. But I do really like it. The close ratio gears are awesome for the straight six. No more revving it through the roof to get it to the next gear. I think I will need 4Lo on the transfer case to start out while towing the trailer, but that shouldn't be any rougher than shifting out of a non synchronized granny gear.

I didn't get anything done on it today, but hopefully tomorrow I will make some strides towards readiness.