Gary Lewis Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 The overdrive technically does not replace the transfer case, it bolts onto the back of it. However the 1345 has no tail piece. Gear Vendors solved that by making a proprietary rear case half that accepts their adapter. Essentially it makes a 1345 like a 1356 with the tail pieceremoved. That is what I had in my diesel. If I use the GVOD in this truck I will swap in the entire transfer case and overdrive unit that came from my diesel. The speedometer drive gear will then be located inside the GVOD and will be a GM part. If I use the DNE2, it will have to bolt up to the 1356 that came with one of my ZF-5's. The tailhousing will come off, and I have flanges to make an adapter to mount the overdrive. Again, the drive gear would be inside the DNE2 and would be a GM part. This is a very complicated decision that involves both trucks' gearing and how best to use the parts that I have. The relatively high value of the GVOD and the possibility of selling it is also a factor. Like I've mentioned before, I'm not thrilled by auxiliary overdrives, but they do accomplish an important goal. The first step for this truck is to get the 235-85R16's on it and try driving it with the diesel 4 speed and see how I like it and see if it really needs an overdrive. If the mpg and highway power band is okay I may just leave it at 3.00 gears and tallish tires. Makes sense, now. Part way through that I was going to offer the 1356 I have from the huck, but then I read that you have one. Yes, it is a complex problem. But I think your approach of trying it first is the best. But, you don’t have a ZF for the six? Might that do the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 Makes sense, now. Part way through that I was going to offer the 1356 I have from the huck, but then I read that you have one. Yes, it is a complex problem. But I think your approach of trying it first is the best. But, you don’t have a ZF for the six? Might that do the same? I have a 7.3 diesel ZF close ratio, and a 460 ZF wide ratio that I could re-drill to fit the diesel, but no small block ZF. They do come into the junkyards from time to time, but none were available when I was looking. It is definitely a possibility for the future if I find a good one, but we will see. Right now I'm liking the close ratio gear spread and the start out gear. If I had the wide ratio ZF I don't think 2nd gear starts would be all that great. There are pro and con to each set up. Edit: thanks for the offer on the transfer case. My diesel ZF and 1356 were absolutely rode hard and put away wet. They most likely need rebuilt. If I open the transfer case and don't like what I see I might revisit your offer if it's still available. Don't hold it on my account though, as mine may be fine and they are pretty common in the junkyards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 I have a 7.3 diesel ZF close ratio, and a 460 ZF wide ratio that I could re-drill to fit the diesel, but no small block ZF. They do come into the junkyards from time to time, but none were available when I was looking. It is definitely a possibility for the future if I find a good one, but we will see. Right now I'm liking the close ratio gear spread and the start out gear. If I had the wide ratio ZF I don't think 2nd gear starts would be all that great. There are pro and con to each set up. Edit: thanks for the offer on the transfer case. My diesel ZF and 1356 were absolutely rode hard and put away wet. They most likely need rebuilt. If I open the transfer case and don't like what I see I might revisit your offer if it's still available. Don't hold it on my account though, as mine may be fine and they are pretty common in the junkyards. New shocks are in on all four corners. The engine side cover gasket job is done, the vacuum harness is in, and the blower resistor is switched out. I still don't feel a difference between medium-high and full blast but it's good enough. I've got heat and and all the directional flaps function. I don't know about the gap around the defrost duct but I've got decent defrost air so I'm calling it good at least for now. I don't know about this hot water shut off thing, but that will have to wait if I want to do anything with it. I bridged the fuel tank leads with a piece of wire and spade connectors. It's probably ridiculous as I don't ever want to run two tanks if I can help it, I just don't like chopping things and making irreversible changes. I got most of the dash stuff put back together, ash tray, glove box with plastic liner, and locking latch with chrome wings that matches the door and hood release locks. For anyone switching between old and new style HVAC controllers, note that the illumination lamp connector is different and it will help if you have the one that matches the harness in the truck. I pulled a 1985 clock harness wire at the junkyard and found out that my 1981 plug is different. It looks like I could probably re-pin the truck plug since I got that connector with the harness, or I might just grab a 1981 harness next time. I don't know if the clock ends are the same, but I have both kinds of clocks. So for the dash all I have left are the vents, the radio wiring (chopped), radio, mounting the manual choke pull and the bezels. I was working on a bracket to place the choke cable though the glow plug lamp hole on my rosewood bezel (it is a diesel bezel). I want to see if I can mount a headlight style knob so it will match the rest of the dash. David, I got a filter for the late style stock air cleaner that you sent to me and it breathes so much better now! Those little cupcake sized air filter/cleaners are a sick joke. I found another tool box... no fender bracket and I'm starting to think it really needs it. The radiator support bracket holds it about 3/4" away from the fender which seems about right. If I force it against the fender the lid does not open right. I'm just going to put some spacers on mine, but I'm wondering if the stock bracket supplies a bit of stand-off to prevent this? So how am I doing on my list... rims are ordered, still waiting to hear from the glass folks (follow up with them tomorrow). Going to go to the MVD in the morning for tags and plates. Alignment will be scheduled when wheels come in. Need to call Cobra tomorrow about the speedometer gear. Tomorrow before work I hope to complete the choke cable bracket and tackle the front lights. The bayonet flanges on the turn signal lights are breaking, the headlight door is breaking in half on one side... so in addition to electrical I will have the excuse to spiff up the front end and put in some spare parts. 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 New shocks are in on all four corners. The engine side cover gasket job is done, the vacuum harness is in, and the blower resistor is switched out. I still don't feel a difference between medium-high and full blast but it's good enough. I've got heat and and all the directional flaps function. I don't know about the gap around the defrost duct but I've got decent defrost air so I'm calling it good at least for now. I don't know about this hot water shut off thing, but that will have to wait if I want to do anything with it. I bridged the fuel tank leads with a piece of wire and spade connectors. It's probably ridiculous as I don't ever want to run two tanks if I can help it, I just don't like chopping things and making irreversible changes. I got most of the dash stuff put back together, ash tray, glove box with plastic liner, and locking latch with chrome wings that matches the door and hood release locks. For anyone switching between old and new style HVAC controllers, note that the illumination lamp connector is different and it will help if you have the one that matches the harness in the truck. I pulled a 1985 clock harness wire at the junkyard and found out that my 1981 plug is different. It looks like I could probably re-pin the truck plug since I got that connector with the harness, or I might just grab a 1981 harness next time. I don't know if the clock ends are the same, but I have both kinds of clocks. So for the dash all I have left are the vents, the radio wiring (chopped), radio, mounting the manual choke pull and the bezels. I was working on a bracket to place the choke cable though the glow plug lamp hole on my rosewood bezel (it is a diesel bezel). I want to see if I can mount a headlight style knob so it will match the rest of the dash. David, I got a filter for the late style stock air cleaner that you sent to me and it breathes so much better now! Those little cupcake sized air filter/cleaners are a sick joke. I found another tool box... no fender bracket and I'm starting to think it really needs it. The radiator support bracket holds it about 3/4" away from the fender which seems about right. If I force it against the fender the lid does not open right. I'm just going to put some spacers on mine, but I'm wondering if the stock bracket supplies a bit of stand-off to prevent this? So how am I doing on my list... rims are ordered, still waiting to hear from the glass folks (follow up with them tomorrow). Going to go to the MVD in the morning for tags and plates. Alignment will be scheduled when wheels come in. Need to call Cobra tomorrow about the speedometer gear. Tomorrow before work I hope to complete the choke cable bracket and tackle the front lights. The bayonet flanges on the turn signal lights are breaking, the headlight door is breaking in half on one side... so in addition to electrical I will have the excuse to spiff up the front end and put in some spare parts. 🙂 You are making excellent progress!!! And a toolbox with a latch. Good find! 👍 I do think the bracket stands the box away from the fender a bit. But spacers should do it as well, although that will be fiddly to assemble with all the separate pieces. If so, I may have a solution. Interesting catch on the HVAC bulb. I was going to work the question of tank switches later by comparing the two controls, and would have missed the bulb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 New shocks are in on all four corners. The engine side cover gasket job is done, the vacuum harness is in, and the blower resistor is switched out. I still don't feel a difference between medium-high and full blast but it's good enough. I've got heat and and all the directional flaps function. I don't know about the gap around the defrost duct but I've got decent defrost air so I'm calling it good at least for now. I don't know about this hot water shut off thing, but that will have to wait if I want to do anything with it. I bridged the fuel tank leads with a piece of wire and spade connectors. It's probably ridiculous as I don't ever want to run two tanks if I can help it, I just don't like chopping things and making irreversible changes. I got most of the dash stuff put back together, ash tray, glove box with plastic liner, and locking latch with chrome wings that matches the door and hood release locks. For anyone switching between old and new style HVAC controllers, note that the illumination lamp connector is different and it will help if you have the one that matches the harness in the truck. I pulled a 1985 clock harness wire at the junkyard and found out that my 1981 plug is different. It looks like I could probably re-pin the truck plug since I got that connector with the harness, or I might just grab a 1981 harness next time. I don't know if the clock ends are the same, but I have both kinds of clocks. So for the dash all I have left are the vents, the radio wiring (chopped), radio, mounting the manual choke pull and the bezels. I was working on a bracket to place the choke cable though the glow plug lamp hole on my rosewood bezel (it is a diesel bezel). I want to see if I can mount a headlight style knob so it will match the rest of the dash. David, I got a filter for the late style stock air cleaner that you sent to me and it breathes so much better now! Those little cupcake sized air filter/cleaners are a sick joke. I found another tool box... no fender bracket and I'm starting to think it really needs it. The radiator support bracket holds it about 3/4" away from the fender which seems about right. If I force it against the fender the lid does not open right. I'm just going to put some spacers on mine, but I'm wondering if the stock bracket supplies a bit of stand-off to prevent this? So how am I doing on my list... rims are ordered, still waiting to hear from the glass folks (follow up with them tomorrow). Going to go to the MVD in the morning for tags and plates. Alignment will be scheduled when wheels come in. Need to call Cobra tomorrow about the speedometer gear. Tomorrow before work I hope to complete the choke cable bracket and tackle the front lights. The bayonet flanges on the turn signal lights are breaking, the headlight door is breaking in half on one side... so in addition to electrical I will have the excuse to spiff up the front end and put in some spare parts. 🙂 So it is a done deal. My transfer case is coming out. As discussed in the speedometer gear help thread, the yellow gear really isn't available anywhere. But it looks like the green one should work in conjunction with a 16 tooth driven gear. It is not available either, but I found a transfer case in a 1989 junkyard F250 with a good green gear in it. I could have tried to just get the gear, but it can be difficult to remove the rear yoke without air tools, and this transfer case looks to be very low mileage as it was in a school district plow truck. Mine, on the other hand, has had the snot beat out of it and the speedometer gear hold down bolt hole is stripped. When I bought the donor truck the front driveshaft slip splines had about an inch of axis wobble, so all things considered I decided to spend the $125 and loose the abused transfer case. I pulled it today before work, and will get it swapped out after the holiday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 So it is a done deal. My transfer case is coming out. As discussed in the speedometer gear help thread, the yellow gear really isn't available anywhere. But it looks like the green one should work in conjunction with a 16 tooth driven gear. It is not available either, but I found a transfer case in a 1989 junkyard F250 with a good green gear in it. I could have tried to just get the gear, but it can be difficult to remove the rear yoke without air tools, and this transfer case looks to be very low mileage as it was in a school district plow truck. Mine, on the other hand, has had the snot beat out of it and the speedometer gear hold down bolt hole is stripped. When I bought the donor truck the front driveshaft slip splines had about an inch of axis wobble, so all things considered I decided to spend the $125 and loose the abused transfer case. I pulled it today before work, and will get it swapped out after the holiday. I think you will be happy. By the way, did you check that the front driveshaft takes the same u-joints? Sometimes the F250’s got bigger u-joints, and the F350’s got double-cardan joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 I think you will be happy. By the way, did you check that the front driveshaft takes the same u-joints? Sometimes the F250’s got bigger u-joints, and the F350’s got double-cardan joints. Gary, my Dana 60 monobeam F350 has the double cardan front presumably because of the taller stock height and steeper driveline angle. But I believe the U-joints are the same. The driveshaft that is in my truck now (that replaced the wobbly one) came from a 1981 F350 TTB with a Borg Warner 1345. It was identical to the bad 1982 F150 shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 Gary, my Dana 60 monobeam F350 has the double cardan front presumably because of the taller stock height and steeper driveline angle. But I believe the U-joints are the same. The driveshaft that is in my truck now (that replaced the wobbly one) came from a 1981 F350 TTB with a Borg Warner 1345. It was identical to the bad 1982 F150 shaft. Ok, you have the driveshaft situation scoped out. Good. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 Ok, you have the driveshaft situation scoped out. Good. 👍 Jonathan, I am glad the air cleaner worked for your truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 So it is a done deal. My transfer case is coming out. As discussed in the speedometer gear help thread, the yellow gear really isn't available anywhere. But it looks like the green one should work in conjunction with a 16 tooth driven gear. It is not available either, but I found a transfer case in a 1989 junkyard F250 with a good green gear in it. I could have tried to just get the gear, but it can be difficult to remove the rear yoke without air tools, and this transfer case looks to be very low mileage as it was in a school district plow truck. Mine, on the other hand, has had the snot beat out of it and the speedometer gear hold down bolt hole is stripped. When I bought the donor truck the front driveshaft slip splines had about an inch of axis wobble, so all things considered I decided to spend the $125 and loose the abused transfer case. I pulled it today before work, and will get it swapped out after the holiday. Today before work I did a 1 hr transfer case change... okay you got me, I didn't get it all put back together and tested but I did get the old one pulled and the new one mounted. I hope to finish up on Tuesday and have at least some kind of speedometer movement. The input shafts were slightly different on the two cases, with the new one having a bit of stick-out. It mounted up just fine though. This may be a really obvious tip, but it may help someone. The last transfer case I installed with it wobbling around on a floor jack. There was a fair amount of cursing involved. When I removed it today I noticed after it came off the alignment dowel it pointed straight down and was 2" off the ground. So for the new one I stood it on its long and and walked it on a 2x6 block. The input shaft was right in line with the transmission output shaft. I wiggled it on, rotated it until I felt the alignment dowel click in, and done! Placed in less than 30 seconds without a jack and no cursing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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