Ford F834 Posted November 16, 2017 Author Share Posted November 16, 2017 It is good to have local people you can rely on. Glad you found the wheels at a good price. As for the windshield, that is becoming a bigger and bigger problem. If you get the part number for the glass it might be a help to others. When I go to get the glass done I will ask about the manufacturer and part number of the windshield that they use. Most owners are just accepting the 87-96 windshield as "the way things are" now. The windshield manufacturers are actually listing that as the correct part for the 80-86 application. It would be fine to have one part number for both, but it needs to have an enlarged VIN window to accommodate both locations. The glass shop defended their mistake inasmuch that it was what the book called for, but did not give me any guff about correcting it. It's not as pretty as a factory trimmed glass but I can read my VIN š Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 When I go to get the glass done I will ask about the manufacturer and part number of the windshield that they use. Most owners are just accepting the 87-96 windshield as "the way things are" now. The windshield manufacturers are actually listing that as the correct part for the 80-86 application. It would be fine to have one part number for both, but it needs to have an enlarged VIN window to accommodate both locations. The glass shop defended their mistake inasmuch that it was what the book called for, but did not give me any guff about correcting it. It's not as pretty as a factory trimmed glass but I can read my VIN š I ran into serious problems trying to sell a truck with the newer windshield in it. Found a very accommodating state DOT guy that was willing to use a mirror to verify the VIN after we pulled the dash cover off. But most wonāt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 I ran into serious problems trying to sell a truck with the newer windshield in it. Found a very accommodating state DOT guy that was willing to use a mirror to verify the VIN after we pulled the dash cover off. But most wonāt. I have run into the same problem as did a fellow NNS O31 employee. The glass chain stores for the most part do not comprehend the fact that Ford moved the VIN tag to the left starting in 1987 to make it easier to read from the driver's side. It gets real interesting if you go to put a newer dash in a 1980-86 cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 When I go to get the glass done I will ask about the manufacturer and part number of the windshield that they use. Most owners are just accepting the 87-96 windshield as "the way things are" now. The windshield manufacturers are actually listing that as the correct part for the 80-86 application. It would be fine to have one part number for both, but it needs to have an enlarged VIN window to accommodate both locations. The glass shop defended their mistake inasmuch that it was what the book called for, but did not give me any guff about correcting it. It's not as pretty as a factory trimmed glass but I can read my VIN š I went junkyarding today which was a little rough because there was a screaming wind and it started to rain. This makes life hard with dirt blowing in your eyes, and doors slamming on your legs as you work. I looked at many trucks and Broncos and not a single one had anything between the heater box and the defrost manifold. Some were worse than others, but they all seemed to have the gap there. Newer trucks (85/86?) sat almost all the way down over the hole, but most had just as large a gap as mine. So I don't know what is with the square piece shown in the diagram unless it was some kind of foam that invariably missing by now? I looked at 14 bullnoses, I believe, and none had anything there. So I guess I won't worry about it, or devise my own weatherstripping. No luck on the speedometer drive gear. There were only three in the yard and none had the yellow gear... however there was a 1989 F250 with a 1345 and the axle code was 35 (should be 3.55's). The drive gear was lime green. The driven gear was peach color, 19 teeth. So perhaps this is the 8 tooth gear in the catalog with the part number listed as TBA? I wonder if it would fit my earlier 1345? I might have to ask the Ford dealer about that part number and see if it is also a type 12. Honesty the transfer case is in such nice shape I am somewhat tempted to buy the whole thing and use it. It is a school district fleet truck and was gently used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I went junkyarding today which was a little rough because there was a screaming wind and it started to rain. This makes life hard with dirt blowing in your eyes, and doors slamming on your legs as you work. I looked at many trucks and Broncos and not a single one had anything between the heater box and the defrost manifold. Some were worse than others, but they all seemed to have the gap there. Newer trucks (85/86?) sat almost all the way down over the hole, but most had just as large a gap as mine. So I don't know what is with the square piece shown in the diagram unless it was some kind of foam that invariably missing by now? I looked at 14 bullnoses, I believe, and none had anything there. So I guess I won't worry about it, or devise my own weatherstripping. No luck on the speedometer drive gear. There were only three in the yard and none had the yellow gear... however there was a 1989 F250 with a 1345 and the axle code was 35 (should be 3.55's). The drive gear was lime green. The driven gear was peach color, 19 teeth. So perhaps this is the 8 tooth gear in the catalog with the part number listed as TBA? I wonder if it would fit my earlier 1345? I might have to ask the Ford dealer about that part number and see if it is also a type 12. Honesty the transfer case is in such nice shape I am somewhat tempted to buy the whole thing and use it. It is a school district fleet truck and was gently used. On issue at a time: HVAC this time. Here are pics of the pieces I showed previously: And here they are together: So, what's different to yours? Do you want these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I went junkyarding today which was a little rough because there was a screaming wind and it started to rain. This makes life hard with dirt blowing in your eyes, and doors slamming on your legs as you work. I looked at many trucks and Broncos and not a single one had anything between the heater box and the defrost manifold. Some were worse than others, but they all seemed to have the gap there. Newer trucks (85/86?) sat almost all the way down over the hole, but most had just as large a gap as mine. So I don't know what is with the square piece shown in the diagram unless it was some kind of foam that invariably missing by now? I looked at 14 bullnoses, I believe, and none had anything there. So I guess I won't worry about it, or devise my own weatherstripping. No luck on the speedometer drive gear. There were only three in the yard and none had the yellow gear... however there was a 1989 F250 with a 1345 and the axle code was 35 (should be 3.55's). The drive gear was lime green. The driven gear was peach color, 19 teeth. So perhaps this is the 8 tooth gear in the catalog with the part number listed as TBA? I wonder if it would fit my earlier 1345? I might have to ask the Ford dealer about that part number and see if it is also a type 12. Honesty the transfer case is in such nice shape I am somewhat tempted to buy the whole thing and use it. It is a school district fleet truck and was gently used. Buying that t-case might be a good solution. Although it looks like it'll cost you $125 you can probably sell yours for a lot of that. But make sure you get the driven gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Yes, absolutely Gary! That video would make a good addition to the resources folder š As far as what's left... well... there is a critical list and a non-critical list š Critical: -Install shocks -16" wheels/tires -Front end alignment -Windshield replacement -Engine side cover gasket -Vacuum harness/put dash back together -front amber lights -insurance/registration Non-critical (but still a goal) -Speedometer gear -Blower resistor -Put interior together -Fix 4K tachometer -Fix tilt column -Mount bullnose console to 40/20/40 seat pan I'm just about to pull the trigger on some rims. I found out that US wheel makes several styles of 5 lug 16's in a 7" width. The ones I showed before were the rat-rod black discs. The ones I like better are a more stock looking white spoke design. The white ones also have a higher load rating. I believe these will do it: I'm going to ask my local shop and see if they can match the eBay price, but I'm pretty well decided that's what I want. I will be headed to the junkyard before work today to pick up a vacuum harness and that missing defrost baffle. I'm going to hit it hard this weekend and hopefully start driving it to work by the end of next week to iron out any problems. Oh, and one more thing! By now you probably know that I really like my trucks stock looking and generally steer away from aftermarket or home-grown modifications... but for once I'm going to make an exception. My wife is 5' tall and has always had issues with sun visors being way too high. On my last junkyard trip I found a solution that will help her enjoy the truck. It is horrid looking as-is, but I can fix ugly and it works great! It mounts to the stock sunvisor holes so no permanent changes need to be made. The center part will probably have to go, but we'll see what I can do with this: If I had known you wanted one of those, I would have given it to you, I took it out of mine because it hung too low for me. It came from Advance Auto when my son worked there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 On issue at a time: HVAC this time. Here are pics of the pieces I showed previously: And here they are together: So, what's different to yours? Do you want these? Thanks for the offer on the parts Gary, but from what I can tell they are identical to the ones that I already have. Mine would dry-fit just like that out of the truck, but when mounted to the firewall holes thedefrost duct is held away from the box. Unless there is a way to adjust the position of the heater box it seems to just be designed that way. Like I said, I saw it on all of the junkyard trucks. It is very odd. š¤·āāļø I need to think on that transfer case issue. It is a better unit, but I won't be keeping it anyway if I add overdrive. The driven gear would not be correct, as it was for 3.55's and mine are 3.00, but being 19 tooth I could hopefully go down to 16 or 17 and get close? I will ask at the Ford dealer and see if the green gear is available and if it is type 12 or not. I forgot to mention my haul for the day... -1985 vacuum harness - Clock wire harness - HVAC plug for Fuzzface - Black center seat belt for Taden - another metal blend door for my diesel - MC brake lines for diesel since I stole them for the F150 hydroboost - ZF inspection cover - two motorcraft heater blower resistors Too much rain/wind for anything else... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Thanks for the offer on the parts Gary, but from what I can tell they are identical to the ones that I already have. Mine would dry-fit just like that out of the truck, but when mounted to the firewall holes thedefrost duct is held away from the box. Unless there is a way to adjust the position of the heater box it seems to just be designed that way. Like I said, I saw it on all of the junkyard trucks. It is very odd. š¤·āāļø I need to think on that transfer case issue. It is a better unit, but I won't be keeping it anyway if I add overdrive. The driven gear would not be correct, as it was for 3.55's and mine are 3.00, but being 19 tooth I could hopefully go down to 16 or 17 and get close? I will ask at the Ford dealer and see if the green gear is available and if it is type 12 or not. I forgot to mention my haul for the day... -1985 vacuum harness - Clock wire harness - HVAC plug for Fuzzface - Black center seat belt for Taden - another metal blend door for my diesel - MC brake lines for diesel since I stole them for the F150 hydroboost - ZF inspection cover - two motorcraft heater blower resistors Too much rain/wind for anything else... Now I understand - they fit fine off the truck but have a gap on. Weird. On the t-case, Iād forgotten about the overdrive. It replaces the t-case? I assumed it was in addition. And that was quite a haul, especially given the adverse conditions. š Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 Now I understand - they fit fine off the truck but have a gap on. Weird. On the t-case, Iād forgotten about the overdrive. It replaces the t-case? I assumed it was in addition. And that was quite a haul, especially given the adverse conditions. š The overdrive technically does not replace the transfer case, it bolts onto the back of it. However the 1345 has no tail piece. Gear Vendors solved that by making a proprietary rear case half that accepts their adapter. Essentially it makes a 1345 like a 1356 with the tail pieceremoved. That is what I had in my diesel. If I use the GVOD in this truck I will swap in the entire transfer case and overdrive unit that came from my diesel. The speedometer drive gear will then be located inside the GVOD and will be a GM part. If I use the DNE2, it will have to bolt up to the 1356 that came with one of my ZF-5's. The tailhousing will come off, and I have flanges to make an adapter to mount the overdrive. Again, the drive gear would be inside the DNE2 and would be a GM part. This is a very complicated decision that involves both trucks' gearing and how best to use the parts that I have. The relatively high value of the GVOD and the possibility of selling it is also a factor. Like I've mentioned before, I'm not thrilled by auxiliary overdrives, but they do accomplish an important goal. The first step for this truck is to get the 235-85R16's on it and try driving it with the diesel 4 speed and see how I like it and see if it really needs an overdrive. If the mpg and highway power band is okay I may just leave it at 3.00 gears and tallish tires.Ā Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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