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1981 straight six manual 4x4 project


Ford F834

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Today before work I did a 1 hr transfer case change... okay you got me, I didn't get it all put back together and tested but I did get the old one pulled and the new one mounted. I hope to finish up on Tuesday and have at least some kind of speedometer movement.

The input shafts were slightly different on the two cases, with the new one having a bit of stick-out. It mounted up just fine though.

This may be a really obvious tip, but it may help someone. The last transfer case I installed with it wobbling around on a floor jack. There was a fair amount of cursing involved. When I removed it today I noticed after it came off the alignment dowel it pointed straight down and was 2" off the ground. So for the new one I stood it on its long and and walked it on a 2x6 block. The input shaft was right in line with the transmission output shaft. I wiggled it on, rotated it until I felt the alignment dowel click in, and done! Placed in less than 30 seconds without a jack and no cursing!

Excellent tip! In my case I'm installing them on the lift and I do a bear-hug of the t-case and then set it on the output shaft of the tranny. But, being down on the floor/driveway would make it much harder, so that is an excellent tip. :nabble_smiley_good:

Will you be driving the truck to work after you get the t-case bolted in?

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Excellent tip! In my case I'm installing them on the lift and I do a bear-hug of the t-case and then set it on the output shaft of the tranny. But, being down on the floor/driveway would make it much harder, so that is an excellent tip. :nabble_smiley_good:

Will you be driving the truck to work after you get the t-case bolted in?

Almost Gary, I am really very close now. Mostly I am just waiting on a call from the glass place (they were booked through the holiday) and for my rims to come in from backorder. I am hoping Wednesday or Thursday for a first highway test.

One thing I've added to my list is trailer wiring and brake controller.... and travel trailer maintenance.

:nabble_smiley_whistling:

Our pet sitter fell through, so we are adjusting our travel plans and accommodations. It will be slow going, but this set up will beat the 240 six hands down.

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Almost Gary, I am really very close now. Mostly I am just waiting on a call from the glass place (they were booked through the holiday) and for my rims to come in from backorder. I am hoping Wednesday or Thursday for a first highway test.

One thing I've added to my list is trailer wiring and brake controller.... and travel trailer maintenance.

:nabble_smiley_whistling:

Our pet sitter fell through, so we are adjusting our travel plans and accommodations. It will be slow going, but this set up will beat the 240 six hands down.

Yes, things always pop up that should have been on the list. And now you are taking the trailer. Cool!

What brake controller are you going with?

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Yes, things always pop up that should have been on the list. And now you are taking the trailer. Cool!

What brake controller are you going with?

It's just an old Kelsey Hayes unit. I've not run the hydraulic system in my trucks as it causes lock up with my flat bed when empty. I know there are better smarter controllers out there, but this is how I am used to driving trailers, with 100% manual control of the electric brakes. It can be a little busy, but I prefer to reserve the trailer brakes for control and emergency stopping. On a downhill run those 1960 drum brakes give you 3-4 good pumps and they are done. You don't want to let it get going very fast, and you better have good vehicle brakes. Someday maybe I can upgrade the trailer axles to ones with better brakes, but until then I won't let a controller decide when to apply those 3-4 good pumps that I get out of them.

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It's just an old Kelsey Hayes unit. I've not run the hydraulic system in my trucks as it causes lock up with my flat bed when empty. I know there are better smarter controllers out there, but this is how I am used to driving trailers, with 100% manual control of the electric brakes. It can be a little busy, but I prefer to reserve the trailer brakes for control and emergency stopping. On a downhill run those 1960 drum brakes give you 3-4 good pumps and they are done. You don't want to let it get going very fast, and you better have good vehicle brakes. Someday maybe I can upgrade the trailer axles to ones with better brakes, but until then I won't let a controller decide when to apply those 3-4 good pumps that I get out of them.

Not that you want to do it now, but it cost me something like $150 an axle to put electric brakes on my boat trailer. With that and the integrated controller on the 2015 truck, it was easy.

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Not that you want to do it now, but it cost me something like $150 an axle to put electric brakes on my boat trailer. With that and the integrated controller on the 2015 truck, it was easy.

That is more affordable than I thought. Do you know if one can run electric brakes on both axles? I do not have the time to do anything with mine this time, but the streamline has brakes only on one axle and they fade like crazy on down grades. They are okay if you are really careful, but you could get in a lot of trouble fast if you're not 😬

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That is more affordable than I thought. Do you know if one can run electric brakes on both axles? I do not have the time to do anything with mine this time, but the streamline has brakes only on one axle and they fade like crazy on down grades. They are okay if you are really careful, but you could get in a lot of trouble fast if you're not 😬

Yes, absolutely run brakes on both axles. My boat trailer came with hydraulic surge brakes on the front axle. But, I wanted the maximum braking I could get so put electric brakes on both axles.

They came as bolt-on hubs with new bearings, brakes, drums, etc. Easy fix.

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Yes, absolutely run brakes on both axles. My boat trailer came with hydraulic surge brakes on the front axle. But, I wanted the maximum braking I could get so put electric brakes on both axles.

They came as bolt-on hubs with new bearings, brakes, drums, etc. Easy fix.

I will definitely have to look into that. I would love to upgrade those 💩 brakes! The Streamline is getting refurbished after the diesel (or concurrently as time allows), but better brakes (and lights) would be a good start.

 

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Today before work I did a 1 hr transfer case change... okay you got me, I didn't get it all put back together and tested but I did get the old one pulled and the new one mounted. I hope to finish up on Tuesday and have at least some kind of speedometer movement.

The input shafts were slightly different on the two cases, with the new one having a bit of stick-out. It mounted up just fine though.

This may be a really obvious tip, but it may help someone. The last transfer case I installed with it wobbling around on a floor jack. There was a fair amount of cursing involved. When I removed it today I noticed after it came off the alignment dowel it pointed straight down and was 2" off the ground. So for the new one I stood it on its long and and walked it on a 2x6 block. The input shaft was right in line with the transmission output shaft. I wiggled it on, rotated it until I felt the alignment dowel click in, and done! Placed in less than 30 seconds without a jack and no cursing!

Thanks for the install tip..I need to swap mine out, and I think this method will help me do the job myself in a month or so..

JS

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Thanks for the install tip..I need to swap mine out, and I think this method will help me do the job myself in a month or so..

JS

You're welcome... your mileage may vary depending on your transfer case model, suspension and tires but the principal is the same. If you let it point straight down during removal you can measure exactly how much block you need between the case tip and the ground to line up the shafts. You can muscle a little difference, but I cannot myself dead lift a 1345 while under the truck to place it. Having suffered my share of back problems I have learned to avoid such "macho" maneuvers!

:nabble_smiley_good:

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