1986F150Six Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I had a discussion going on FTE about wheels for this truck. In spite of the fact that David gave me a most beautiful set of stock rims at the GTG, I just have not been able to bring myself to buy more tires that I hate. You can't find tall and skinny in a 15" rim unless you go with bias ply super swampers which are for a very specific use. I was going to give up on the super rare 16" 5 lug Ford rims and run 31x10.5's, but I was trolling the internet and found these... what do you all think? Does anyone know what the OEM rim backspace is? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-69-7755 They are 16" rims, they are only 7" wide (correct for the 235/85R16 that I want to run). They are 5x5.5 bolt circle. The center hole is big enough for my front 4x4 hubs. Do I have a winner? The backspace is 4", offset is zero. They might not be everyone's cup of tea as far as taste but I don't mind them. I usually prefer a steel wheel. And I definitely prefer the load range E truck tires over the lighter 15" tires. I just don't tend to have problems with E's on road or off. Great find regarding the wheels, Jonathan! You are making a lot of progress!! Jonathan, I suggest that you sell the factory set of buggy wheels and either contribute that money to the family budget or towards the purchase of the 16" wheels, which is what you have really wanted all along! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I had a discussion going on FTE about wheels for this truck. In spite of the fact that David gave me a most beautiful set of stock rims at the GTG, I just have not been able to bring myself to buy more tires that I hate. You can't find tall and skinny in a 15" rim unless you go with bias ply super swampers which are for a very specific use. I was going to give up on the super rare 16" 5 lug Ford rims and run 31x10.5's, but I was trolling the internet and found these... what do you all think? Does anyone know what the OEM rim backspace is? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-69-7755 They are 16" rims, they are only 7" wide (correct for the 235/85R16 that I want to run). They are 5x5.5 bolt circle. The center hole is big enough for my front 4x4 hubs. Do I have a winner? The backspace is 4", offset is zero. They might not be everyone's cup of tea as far as taste but I don't mind them. I usually prefer a steel wheel. And I definitely prefer the load range E truck tires over the lighter 15" tires. I just don't tend to have problems with E's on road or off. Wow! No progress until 🤮. (Just kidding, Jonathan. Wanted to try out the new emoji. 😈) Anyway, have you tried taking the non-ground terminal at the tank directly to ground? You could bridge the two terminals as a start, but if that doesn’t work than put a ground directly on the wire from the switch - just in case there is something wrong with either the ground or the sender itself. And if that doesn’t work ground the yellow/white wire at the switch. Keep moving up the circuit until it does work. I’ll bet the wind noise is a lot less with the window runs replaces. I need to do that to Big Blue, but one thing at a time. On the wheels, I don’t know the original specs, but might be able to measure a wheel today if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Wow! No progress until 🤮. (Just kidding, Jonathan. Wanted to try out the new emoji. 😈) Anyway, have you tried taking the non-ground terminal at the tank directly to ground? You could bridge the two terminals as a start, but if that doesn’t work than put a ground directly on the wire from the switch - just in case there is something wrong with either the ground or the sender itself. And if that doesn’t work ground the yellow/white wire at the switch. Keep moving up the circuit until it does work. I’ll bet the wind noise is a lot less with the window runs replaces. I need to do that to Big Blue, but one thing at a time. On the wheels, I don’t know the original specs, but might be able to measure a wheel today if you want. Thanks Gary, I must need to update because I can't see the emoji, it's just a square box. I don't know why I didn't think to test the gauge by grounding out the yellow/white wire... that should make the gauge peg to full, no? Sender is supposed to measure 10 ohms full, 72 ohms empty? I forgot I can measure the backspace on David's wheels... I was in the mindset of regular steel rims. I know my aftermarket ones are way different because of the width. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Thanks Gary, I must need to update because I can't see the emoji, it's just a square box. I don't know why I didn't think to test the gauge by grounding out the yellow/white wire... that should make the gauge peg to full, no? Sender is supposed to measure 10 ohms full, 72 ohms empty? I forgot I can measure the backspace on David's wheels... I was in the mindset of regular steel rims. I know my aftermarket ones are way different because of the width. Yes, just start grounding and see where it works. It'll go full scale pretty quickly because you'll be at less than 10 ohms, but just don't leave it on for too long. And, I also forgot about the wheels from David. They'd be easier to measure than mine with mounted tires. And, the emoji does look like a little square box on anything that isn't on iOS 11.1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 I forgot I can measure the backspace on [Jonathan's] wheels... I was in the mindset of regular steel rims. I know my aftermarket ones are way different because of the width. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 I forgot I can measure the backspace on [Jonathan's] wheels... I was in the mindset of regular steel rims. I know my aftermarket ones are way different because of the width. Thanks David, I am disappointed not to use them as they are so nice, but unfortunately an inch too small for the tires I like 😔 In other news I went to work on the truck today and forgot my box of new HVAC parts at home 🙈 Some days are just like that and this was one of them... I did some more testing on the fuel gauge situation and found my gauge pegs quickly to full when I bridge the two sockets on the tank connector so it isn't the gauge. Then I borrowed my dad's multi meter which has 1x ohm sensitivity and checked the sender terminals again. I measured 70 ohms... which is, well, empty. It seems odd that it would be gone as I have only driven 150 miles at the absolute most since filling the tank. That would be horrific mileage for a straight six, but the original carb was running very rich and the exhaust stunk. So before I go any further I'm going to bring a 5 gallon can of gas to it and see if it changes. It could possibly just be empty! Next I pulled off the bent front bumper and bent cross member. I put in the front receiver modified cross member and a better bumper that I had. I finished the pin lock conversion by drilling holes for the pin lock rods and snapping them in. The factory holes are large and slightly elongated, but I found that a well-placed 1/2" hole works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 I forgot I can measure the backspace on [Jonathan's] wheels... I was in the mindset of regular steel rims. I know my aftermarket ones are way different because of the width. Thanks David, I am disappointed not to use them as they are so nice, but unfortunately an inch too small for the tires I like 😔 In other news I went to work on the truck today and forgot my box of new HVAC parts at home 🙈 Some days are just like that and this was one of them... I did some more testing on the fuel gauge situation and found my gauge pegs quickly to full when I bridge the two sockets on the tank connector so it isn't the gauge. Then I borrowed my dad's multi meter which has 1x ohm sensitivity and checked the sender terminals again. I measured 70 ohms... which is, well, empty. It seems odd that it would be gone as I have only driven 150 miles at the absolute most since filling the tank. That would be horrific mileage for a straight six, but the original carb was running very rich and the exhaust stunk. So before I go any further I'm going to bring a 5 gallon can of gas to it and see if it changes. It could possibly just be empty! Next I pulled off the bent front bumper and bent cross member. I put in the front receiver modified cross member and a better bumper that I had. I finished the pin lock conversion by drilling holes for the pin lock rods and snapping them in. The factory holes are large and slightly elongated, but I found that a well-placed 1/2" hole works fine. Looking good! I like the front receiver- and you will as well. I, again, put the trailer between the lift uprights, and this time did it by myself. Try that backing up. 😉 As for the fuel gauge, you are closing in on the problem. 150 miles on a 14 or 16 gallon tank isn’t unheard of if the choke is on or some other malady exists. And especially if there’s a lot of starting and stopping and cold-startup. On the pin locks, have you changed the locks themselves to the later style? If not, up will be locked and down will be in-locked. (I think we’ve had this conversation, but I’ve slept since then. 🙁) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 Looking good! I like the front receiver- and you will as well. I, again, put the trailer between the lift uprights, and this time did it by myself. Try that backing up. 😉 As for the fuel gauge, you are closing in on the problem. 150 miles on a 14 or 16 gallon tank isn’t unheard of if the choke is on or some other malady exists. And especially if there’s a lot of starting and stopping and cold-startup. On the pin locks, have you changed the locks themselves to the later style? If not, up will be locked and down will be in-locked. (I think we’ve had this conversation, but I’ve slept since then. 🙁) Gary, shouldn't the rear tank be 19 gallons? The carb that came on it was bad. Turning the mixture screw had no effect whatsoever, so anything is possible. On the locks I changed out the whole thing, and Taden got what came out of my truck... so luckily the locks operate in the right direction 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 Gary, shouldn't the rear tank be 19 gallons? The carb that came on it was bad. Turning the mixture screw had no effect whatsoever, so anything is possible. On the locks I changed out the whole thing, and Taden got what came out of my truck... so luckily the locks operate in the right direction 👍 Yes, the rear should be 19 gallons. Sorry, I missed that. But, glad you swapped out the locks. And, glad you got Taden what was needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 Yes, the rear should be 19 gallons. Sorry, I missed that. But, glad you swapped out the locks. And, glad you got Taden what was needed. I added 5 gallons to the rear tank. Still reads 70 ohms, and no change to the gauge reading. Sending unit has to be bad... I was thinking I would put in the Bronco tank that I have, but as it sat it got condensation rust inside. Bummer. So it's either get a sending unit for this tank, or get a new sending unit and a bigger tank. I'm not looking forward to it either way... Now on to the dash/HVAC work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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