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1981 straight six manual 4x4 project


Ford F834

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We were talking about when you start the engine. If you get too much static timing it will fire before the piston gets up and try to spin the engine backward. That’s “kick back”.

Oh. And on not starting while cranking, that could be not enough static timing. Or, it could be a bad connection from the Start circuit to the coil.

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We were talking about when you start the engine. If you get too much static timing it will fire before the piston gets up and try to spin the engine backward. That’s “kick back”.

Thanks for the clarification Gary. I don’t think I have any kick back while starting. For what it’s worth I believe I settled on 12* static timing. You may be on to something with the starting circuit. Seems like it should crank less than it does. When it does start, it has a very low smooth idle even when choked a bit.

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Thanks for the clarification Gary. I don’t think I have any kick back while starting. For what it’s worth I believe I settled on 12* static timing. You may be on to something with the starting circuit. Seems like it should crank less than it does. When it does start, it has a very low smooth idle even when choked a bit.

12 degrees should be a good start, but you could try 14. I think we had kick back with David’s at 14, but could be wrong.

To check power to the ignition in Start, pull the wire off the solenoid and check power when you turn the key to both the coil as well as the DS-II box. Should have full battery voltage in Start to the coil.

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12 degrees should be a good start, but you could try 14. I think we had kick back with David’s at 14, but could be wrong.

To check power to the ignition in Start, pull the wire off the solenoid and check power when you turn the key to both the coil as well as the DS-II box. Should have full battery voltage in Start to the coil.

My engine came into the Garagemahal sporting 17 degrees static!!! :nabble_smiley_whistling:

It was a "fat" 14 degrees BTDC when I left, and the vacuum advance had been tweaked, with more vacuum canister tweaking as I drove.

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12 degrees should be a good start, but you could try 14. I think we had kick back with David’s at 14, but could be wrong.

To check power to the ignition in Start, pull the wire off the solenoid and check power when you turn the key to both the coil as well as the DS-II box. Should have full battery voltage in Start to the coil.

Thanks Gary. I will try both suggestions when I get back. With greater advance I noticed increasingly rougher idle, but maybe a little stumble is okay to have.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The only last thing I need to complete my set up is a Canadian non-EGR carburetor spacer. If anyone has one of these that they would part with please let me know 🙂

Jon,

I came across this For Sale ad while searching for other stuff this morning, and it appears to include one of the elusive Non-EGR spacers you've been looking for...

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1359162274&requestSource=b

_59.thumb.jpg.ff966a9763527f8f7cc9d7f13d042df2.jpg

Not sure if that is an OEM piece or not?...Maybe it's a homemade one...you will know better than I. He's asking $325 for the whole works (that's about $250 USD).

 

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The only last thing I need to complete my set up is a Canadian non-EGR carburetor spacer. If anyone has one of these that they would part with please let me know 🙂

Jon,

I came across this For Sale ad while searching for other stuff this morning, and it appears to include one of the elusive Non-EGR spacers you've been looking for...

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1359162274&requestSource=b

Not sure if that is an OEM piece or not?...Maybe it's a homemade one...you will know better than I. He's asking $325 for the whole works (that's about $250 USD).

Well spotted, but that is pricey!

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Well spotted, but that is pricey!

Indeed...considering Ray just bought a whole truck for less money...lol.

I guess it is evidence that the spacer does indeed exist (that's IF it is an original Ford OEM piece?).

Now that I have a picture of what the thing looks like, I can post up a want ad for Jon and see if I can find one for $10 bucks or something like that so it can be mailed cheaply;).

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Well spotted, but that is pricey!

Indeed...considering Ray just bought a whole truck for less money...lol.

I guess it is evidence that the spacer does indeed exist (that's IF it is an original Ford OEM piece?).

Now that I have a picture of what the thing looks like, I can post up a want ad for Jon and see if I can find one for $10 bucks or something like that so it can be mailed cheaply;).

Good plan, Stan. :nabble_smiley_good:

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Well spotted, but that is pricey!

Indeed...considering Ray just bought a whole truck for less money...lol.

I guess it is evidence that the spacer does indeed exist (that's IF it is an original Ford OEM piece?).

Now that I have a picture of what the thing looks like, I can post up a want ad for Jon and see if I can find one for $10 bucks or something like that so it can be mailed cheaply;).

It looks like the spacer my 1977 F150 300 had on it, no EGR, no air pump, no cat, just evaporative canister.

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