Ralloking Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 Has anybody here solved a problem with leaking brake fluid reservoir? I have tried different rubber seals and covers, but still drops some fluid onto the inner fender.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 Yes. Mine was leaking because the top was rusty and not sealing. So I sucked the fluid out, stuffed paper towels in, and used a file to smooth the top. Pulled the paper towels out gently to keep the filings out, refilled the master cylinder, and it no longer leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pebcak Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 All I did was get two pieces of cardboard and fold them then put them between the lid and the wire that clips over the top. It added the extra pressure that it doesn't leak. But, after reading Gary's reply, I might be doing that soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 A new (reman) MC isn't that expensive, if yours has rust pits. But my solution was to swap to the newer-style ('87-96) MC, reservoir, & booster. https://supermotors.net/getfile/895333/thumbnail/mastercyl9496.jpg It required a conglomeration of adapters on one of the lines, and I gutted the residual-pressure valve (because I wasn't sure if it would clash with the proportioning valve), but it worked fine for many years. https://supermotors.net/getfile/931972/thumbnail/brakeadapt.jpg The '94-96 version (with SCCDS port) makes it easier to swap to the '93-04 cruise servo later. Just be sure to get the black (new, revised) SCCDS instead of the old (flaming) red one. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1033824/thumbnail/sccdss.jpg Making the fluid level switch trigger the original BRAKE light is pretty easy, too. Just splice it into the switch on the proportioning valve, and run a ground: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1101054/thumbnail/brakewarn92.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralloking Posted October 18, 2018 Author Share Posted October 18, 2018 A new (reman) MC isn't that expensive, if yours has rust pits. But my solution was to swap to the newer-style ('87-96) MC, reservoir, & booster. https://supermotors.net/getfile/895333/thumbnail/mastercyl9496.jpg It required a conglomeration of adapters on one of the lines, and I gutted the residual-pressure valve (because I wasn't sure if it would clash with the proportioning valve), but it worked fine for many years. https://supermotors.net/getfile/931972/thumbnail/brakeadapt.jpg The '94-96 version (with SCCDS port) makes it easier to swap to the '93-04 cruise servo later. Just be sure to get the black (new, revised) SCCDS instead of the old (flaming) red one. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1033824/thumbnail/sccdss.jpg Making the fluid level switch trigger the original BRAKE light is pretty easy, too. Just splice it into the switch on the proportioning valve, and run a ground: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1101054/thumbnail/brakewarn92.jpg It is brand new, but leaks same as old one ... Maybe I have to live with that...🙁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 It is brand new, but leaks same as old one ... Maybe I have to live with that...🙁 Mine was new as well. But the fix only took a few minutes. Having said that, I do plan to do the upgrade Steve mentioned to a later master cylinder with a plastic reservoir. In fact, I already have it. But I want to do it as part of an upgrade to hydroboost, so will be waiting a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScubaSteve Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Yes. Mine was leaking because the top was rusty and not sealing. So I sucked the fluid out, stuffed paper towels in, and used a file to smooth the top. Pulled the paper towels out gently to keep the filings out, refilled the master cylinder, and it no longer leaks. You pulled the towels out slowly to prevent the filings from falling in, I prefer to turn the shop vacuum on and quickly suck out the rags and filings at the same time. It works well for replacing intake gaskets and keeping the crud from the old gasket from falling into the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 You pulled the towels out slowly to prevent the filings from falling in, I prefer to turn the shop vacuum on and quickly suck out the rags and filings at the same time. It works well for replacing intake gaskets and keeping the crud from the old gasket from falling into the head. Excellent idea! I wish I had thought of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 You pulled the towels out slowly to prevent the filings from falling in, I prefer to turn the shop vacuum on and quickly suck out the rags and filings at the same time. It works well for replacing intake gaskets and keeping the crud from the old gasket from falling into the head. I gotta remember that for the next time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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