ReneH Posted July 18 Author Share Posted July 18 So his Jeep has a Saginaw? This is what I have: Looks like a Saginaw, if I'm not wrong... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 18 Share Posted July 18 This is what I have: Looks like a Saginaw, if I'm not wrong... Yes, that's a Saginaw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 18 Share Posted July 18 Hmm...that's still the question for me. I want to get less assistance from the steering pump...or better an adjustable assistance... I think an electric three way valve should work fine to bypass the fluid back into the reservoir. If I can combine thus with a regulator, I can setup one line with full assist and another with reduced assist, controllable by a switch from the dashboard. So, when driving on a highway or a country road, you can switch off the assist, or even better switch to a reduced assist. So, that's the plan so far... Rene', I have a 1995 Lincoln Continental, it has a control valve on the rack that is operated by the vehicle dynamics computer located in the trunk. The valve adjusts the pressure on the rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 18 Author Share Posted July 18 Rene', I have a 1995 Lincoln Continental, it has a control valve on the rack that is operated by the vehicle dynamics computer located in the trunk. The valve adjusts the pressure on the rack. Ok, so the version with a hydraulic valve and a pressure regulator should work. I only have to let make me some new hoses... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 19 Author Share Posted July 19 Rene', I have a 1995 Lincoln Continental, it has a control valve on the rack that is operated by the vehicle dynamics computer located in the trunk. The valve adjusts the pressure on the rack. Now, after driving some miles, it seem the play gets more...or maybe it was there from the beginning and I haven't noticed it really. I already have tried to contact Cardone by phone, with no success, so I've written an email, yesterday within theit opening hours. Currently also no reply. I've done two videos: I don't really know, what this can caused by. The steering box is a new one, it's not rebuild...so maybe I do have to set the preload after installing it??? I've checked and adopted the tie rods and the steering damper. Everything ok on this side. I've replaced the bearings and the coupler on the steering column...so everything is new and checked, but the result is horrible... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 19 Author Share Posted July 19 Rene', I have a 1995 Lincoln Continental, it has a control valve on the rack that is operated by the vehicle dynamics computer located in the trunk. The valve adjusts the pressure on the rack. Cardone said it's a case of warranty...so I've ordered a new gearbox from rockauto.com and they will send me the money back, when I've returned the defective gearbox... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 Cardone said it's a case of warranty...so I've ordered a new gearbox from rockauto.com and they will send me the money back, when I've returned the defective gearbox... I can't trust Cardone worth anything. I've been through three rack and pinions from them on my Ranger, and they have all had problems. -First one had mismatched inner tie-rods, and I couldn't find a replacement for the one that went bad, so that entire rack had to be replaced after a few years. -Second one ended up puking fluid into both tie-rod boots and had to be replaced after a few months. -The third one in my truck now works, but I immediately noticed that the steering is tighter in one direction than the other. I've gotten used to it now, and since replacing these on a 4x4 Ranger is not fun, I'm just leaving it be. I highly doubt their "new" gears are any better than their remanufactured stuff. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 21 Author Share Posted July 21 I can't trust Cardone worth anything. I've been through three rack and pinions from them on my Ranger, and they have all had problems. -First one had mismatched inner tie-rods, and I couldn't find a replacement for the one that went bad, so that entire rack had to be replaced after a few years. -Second one ended up puking fluid into both tie-rod boots and had to be replaced after a few months. -The third one in my truck now works, but I immediately noticed that the steering is tighter in one direction than the other. I've gotten used to it now, and since replacing these on a 4x4 Ranger is not fun, I'm just leaving it be. I highly doubt their "new" gears are any better than their remanufactured stuff. I've found the problem...I can move the output shaft...it's loose... I hope this is seeable... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 21 Share Posted July 21 I've found the problem...I can move the output shaft...it's loose... I hope this is seeable... Ok, I see the verticle play, I can't really say whether there is side play from the video. Verticle play adjusment. First put the steering straight ahead (Pitman arm parallel to the box cylinder). Loosen the nut on top and using a screwdriver turn the screw in until you fell some resistance. Hold the svrew in that position and tighten the nut. Drive it carefully and see if the steering will still (if it did before) return to center when you release the wheel. If it does not center, and the truck has been that way, you may not have enough caster angle in the steering. On the Ford 4WD axles I have worked on, the camber and caster are adjusted with eccentric bushings at the upper ball jolnt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 21 Author Share Posted July 21 Ok, I see the verticle play, I can't really say whether there is side play from the video. Verticle play adjusment. First put the steering straight ahead (Pitman arm parallel to the box cylinder). Loosen the nut on top and using a screwdriver turn the screw in until you fell some resistance. Hold the svrew in that position and tighten the nut. Drive it carefully and see if the steering will still (if it did before) return to center when you release the wheel. If it does not center, and the truck has been that way, you may not have enough caster angle in the steering. On the Ford 4WD axles I have worked on, the camber and caster are adjusted with eccentric bushings at the upper ball jolnt. Hi Bill. Thanks for this detailed information. Cardone said, if there is play, it's a thing of their warranty and I should not turn the preload screw...I will see, how the new gearbox, that I'll get in exchange, will behave... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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