ratdude747 Posted July 1 Author Share Posted July 1 I vote for a second 4x4 truck. Your truck appears to be in too nice a running shape to be sold to someone who may not appreciate its merits and pay top dollar. With Hagerty insurance and occasional boat pulling use it should be justifiable Running shape, other than it constantly blowing up aluminum radiators, yes. Body wise, the cab has leaks, the exterior is "loved on", and the rear wheel arches and cab corners are rusting a bit. I'm not much of a body guy (ironic considering what the equipment I engineer produces), so I'm not super inclined to fix them now beyond what I have done. It's very much a great driver where largely any major improvement would put in a Hagerty class that would render it useless to me (to nice to drive/use). I don't have Hagerty insurance since they seem to be more in the business of insuring "toys" than "drivers".... although lately it's only been pulling the boat (mainly due to the radiator issue). I already have two trucks... 2nd is a loaded but very rusted 1995 Ranger (which is what I'm currently driving). Three would be something all right... That said, I was able to get past the current hurdle, so I'm putting this thread's idea on the back burner again. Although if a 3.08 LSD did happen to fall in my lap, I'd totally do it. To the other post: I did misremember on keeping the same gears- do need to reshim but only need to match backlash is what I should have remembered (just need to get a test indicator and mount). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 Running shape, other than it constantly blowing up aluminum radiators, yes. Body wise, the cab has leaks, the exterior is "loved on", and the rear wheel arches and cab corners are rusting a bit. I'm not much of a body guy (ironic considering what the equipment I engineer produces), so I'm not super inclined to fix them now beyond what I have done. It's very much a great driver where largely any major improvement would put in a Hagerty class that would render it useless to me (to nice to drive/use). I don't have Hagerty insurance since they seem to be more in the business of insuring "toys" than "drivers".... although lately it's only been pulling the boat (mainly due to the radiator issue). I already have two trucks... 2nd is a loaded but very rusted 1995 Ranger (which is what I'm currently driving). Three would be something all right... That said, I was able to get past the current hurdle, so I'm putting this thread's idea on the back burner again. Although if a 3.08 LSD did happen to fall in my lap, I'd totally do it. To the other post: I did misremember on keeping the same gears- do need to reshim but only need to match backlash is what I should have remembered (just need to get a test indicator and mount). I love Hagerty.. and they took care of me when I rear ended and totaled out a Chevy Cruze with Big Blue 2WD (the truck was unscathed except the Ford Emblem). No excuses, my inattention/fault... I called them and took responsibility it was a very easy process. I put about 2k miles/year on my trucks and cost to insure with full coverage is about ~550/year for both of them. Not sure about local requirements of Hagerty where you live... But I don't think any of my trucks are 'Toys' by any stretch..... They do require that one of your non-Hagerty vehicles be a 'daily driver' i.e. insured in another policy. I get away with this for the most part because my wife's car meets that criteria but they prefer to have 1 daily driver per household member. I do question trading Big Blue 2WD from time to time for an AC cab/4x4 but it is a damn good running truck so I don't want to just give it away until I find a suitable replacement. I have a 3.06 rear end as well and I really like it over a 4.1..... just the overall driving aspects. Its just a mental feeling that I get better use of the low-end torque band on the 3.06 rear end vs 4.1. I find myself being at too high an RPM too soon on a 4.1 whereas with a 3.06, I feel like I can get more out of it at any time, if that makes sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 .... To the other post: I did misremember on keeping the same gears- do need to reshim but only need to match backlash is what I should have remembered (just need to get a test indicator and mount). In general, when you set up gears you need to shim the pinion to get the correct pinion depth and pinion preload, and you need to shim the case to get the correct backlash and total preload. Both the pinion shims and the case shims affect pattern. If you aren't changing gears, if you get the gears back in the same place they were you'll get the same results you had before. Assuming the gears were properly set up the first time (usually a safe assumption if they haven't eaten themselves yet) those results will be good. It's trivial to keep the pinion in the same place if you don't move it. To get the ring gear in the same place at the very least I'd measure backlash and total preload before pulling the gears and then try to get as close as possible to the same readings when you put it back together. Having said that, I don't think I did check everything before pulling the front diff out of my Bronco to put the OX locker in. I did keep the same gears and I didn't touch the pinion. So I did check backlash, preload and pattern as I was shimming the case. But still, that was a much easier job than when I installed the OX and regeared the high-pinion axle that's in the Bronco now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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