First attempt at rebuilding a C6 - looking for pre-advice

[MagooInFL]

Ive rented and watched the Bad Shoe production video for rebuilding the C6. Pretty good step by step video. Ive torn down the tranny and have made my list of replacement parts that I believe I will need.

I was planning on purchasing the rebuild kit from Bad Shoe - wondering if anyone has purchased his kit before?

I am going to replace the torque converter - any suggestions for where to purchase that? I have an auto zone, advance auto parts, NAPA and Oriellys all close by.

Anyone with C6 rebuild experience care to chime in with their 2 cents worth of advice before I start the build?

I have NEVER built a tranny before - built an engine before but never a tranny - it is kinda scary honestly enough - like a bajillion moving parts in this thing.

Thanks in advance for ANY help!

 

[Gary Lewis]

I've not rebuilt an auto tranny. But I have some knowledge of torque converters. I don't know what engine you have (no signature), nor what use you are going to make of the truck. But trucks and high-stall converters aren't a good combination. Trucks take torque at low RPM's to move heavy loads. High-stall converters allow the engine to wind to make power high in the RPM band, but they slip a lot at low RPM where a truck engine will be running.

And, the slippage in a C6's torque converter is always with you as it doesn't have a clutch to lock it up. So, if you do go with a high-stall converter you'll have really poor MPG as the converter will be slipping a bunch, continually.

For me, I'd go with a towing or RV type converter. Hughes makes/used to make one called the Mile Master that was said to reduce slippage and increase MPG. If you have enough engine then I'd go with something like that. And by that I mean, a little engine like the 302 needs to wind, but the 300 six or even a 351 has torque at low R's and doesn't need to wind.

Just my $.02.

[grumpin]

I've not rebuilt an auto tranny. But I have some knowledge of torque converters. I don't know what engine you have (no signature), nor what use you are going to make of the truck. But trucks and high-stall converters aren't a good combination. Trucks take torque at low RPM's to move heavy loads. High-stall converters allow the engine to wind to make power high in the RPM band, but they slip a lot at low RPM where a truck engine will be running.

And, the slippage in a C6's torque converter is always with you as it doesn't have a clutch to lock it up. So, if you do go with a high-stall converter you'll have really poor MPG as the converter will be slipping a bunch, continually.

For me, I'd go with a towing or RV type converter. Hughes makes/used to make one called the Mile Master that was said to reduce slippage and increase MPG. If you have enough engine then I'd go with something like that. And by that I mean, a little engine like the 302 needs to wind, but the 300 six or even a 351 has torque at low R's and doesn't need to wind.

Just my $.02.

What Gary said.

Here's one I've had my eye on.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-443630

[85lebaront2]

A C6 is actually a pretty simple transmission to build and they're pretty tough. Darth's original had around 125,000 miles when I switched over to EFI and the E4OD. I usually get a friend with a transmission shop to order mine, he will get it for me at his cost, I believe they are Dacco converters.

I think I have rebuilt every Ford automatic except some of the newer ones like the 5R55 and 4R10. FMX, Cast iron Cruise-o-matic, 2 and 3 speed Ford-o-matic, C3, C4, C5, C6, AOD, E4OD, 4R75W, Lincoln Turbo-Drive (monster iron cruise-o-matic) I have done.

Go to NAPA and buy an ATRA manual on it, get a shift kit for the valve body and clean everything thoroughly, especially the governor.

[MagooInFL]

A C6 is actually a pretty simple transmission to build and they're pretty tough. Darth's original had around 125,000 miles when I switched over to EFI and the E4OD. I usually get a friend with a transmission shop to order mine, he will get it for me at his cost, I believe they are Dacco converters.

I think I have rebuilt every Ford automatic except some of the newer ones like the 5R55 and 4R10. FMX, Cast iron Cruise-o-matic, 2 and 3 speed Ford-o-matic, C3, C4, C5, C6, AOD, E4OD, 4R75W, Lincoln Turbo-Drive (monster iron cruise-o-matic) I have done.

Go to NAPA and buy an ATRA manual on it, get a shift kit for the valve body and clean everything thoroughly, especially the governor.

Oops - sorry I forgot to mention this is going back into my 1985 F250 with the 6.9 diesel with a dually rear end with 4:10 gears

 

[Gary Lewis]

Oops - sorry I forgot to mention this is going back into my 1985 F250 with the 6.9 diesel with a dually rear end with 4:10 gears

Wow! LOOK at all those vehicle, many of which are Bullnose!

Since the converter is going behind a diesel, which turns at low RPM, it is even more important to go with a converter with little slip. One article I read said "In general, the desired stall speed should be 500-700 RPM below the engine RPM at peak torque." The 1983 dealer facts book says that your engine produces peak torque at 1800 RPM. So that rule of thumb says you need a torque converter that has a stall speed between 1100 - 1300 RPM. That's low.

[MagooInFL]

Wow! LOOK at all those vehicle, many of which are Bullnose!

Since the converter is going behind a diesel, which turns at low RPM, it is even more important to go with a converter with little slip. One article I read said "In general, the desired stall speed should be 500-700 RPM below the engine RPM at peak torque." The 1983 dealer facts book says that your engine produces peak torque at 1800 RPM. So that rule of thumb says you need a torque converter that has a stall speed between 1100 - 1300 RPM. That's low.

good info - thank you - yes - its a collection that is too long and varied - I am trying to pair it down to JUST F350 4x4 diesel BULLNOSES only. Ive discovered that I have vehicular ADHD or ADD or something like that whereas I want to do waaaayyy more than my time will actually allow. And I am a sucker for what I feel is a steel. This weekend I am buying two more Bricknoses because I just can't refuse the prices! $300 for a 1990 F350 with a nice all steel flatbed and complete drivetrain! Cmon - how do I NOT buy that?

[Gary Lewis]

good info - thank you - yes - its a collection that is too long and varied - I am trying to pair it down to JUST F350 4x4 diesel BULLNOSES only. Ive discovered that I have vehicular ADHD or ADD or something like that whereas I want to do waaaayyy more than my time will actually allow. And I am a sucker for what I feel is a steel. This weekend I am buying two more Bricknoses because I just can't refuse the prices! $300 for a 1990 F350 with a nice all steel flatbed and complete drivetrain! Cmon - how do I NOT buy that?

That is a steal! I paid something like $800 for Huck, the 1990 F250 half truck. The frame was cut at the back of the cab, so I didn't get the rear axle nor bed, but I got the drive shafts, tanks, fuel lines, 460 and EFI system, E4OD, etc.

So you are getting quite the buy. But, you are also getting quite the inventory. You need to meet Ray/NotEnoughTrucks. I think you and he are cut from the same cloth.