mat in tn Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Thanks! That sort of makes sense I did a 1/2 turn in today. I am reasonably close to comfortable where the transmission is right now. I might do another 1/2 turn possibly as I don't want to lug the transmission with such a heavy vehicle. I did change the tires to 31 inch and even prior to adjustment, the shift points are a lot better and the steering, throttle response, acceleration.... the 33 inch mud tires were awful. I want to add a transmission fluid pressure gauge. Is the port right next (left of) the band adjustment bolt the correct place to install a pressure gauge ? Thinking a generic oil pressure gauge/copper lines should do the job but it might be in the way of the shift levers.... I added a tach today and it is already looking like a cockpit... but I really think I want to have a trans pressure gauge as well. A second/alternative might be on one of the cooling lines. the testing gauges for transmissions are usually able to read high pressure like 300 plus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 the testing gauges for transmissions are usually able to read high pressure like 300 plus. I've driven another ~50 miles without any incidents (knock on wood). I did another 1/2 turn in (total 1 turn in so far) on the vacuum modulator, the 1-2 shifts are where I want it to be. I do have a little lag in 2 to 1 downshift. It won't happen unless I am more or less stopped. Kickdown lever will solve this but I'd probably want this to be addressed without using that. And I did do a couple of good pulls in reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 I've driven another ~50 miles without any incidents (knock on wood). I did another 1/2 turn in (total 1 turn in so far) on the vacuum modulator, the 1-2 shifts are where I want it to be. I do have a little lag in 2 to 1 downshift. It won't happen unless I am more or less stopped. Kickdown lever will solve this but I'd probably want this to be addressed without using that. And I did do a couple of good pulls in reverse. Good progress. But the kickdown lever only is part of the equation at WOT. Otherwise it makes no difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 Good progress. But the kickdown lever only is part of the equation at WOT. Otherwise it makes no difference. Right... when you are wanting to accelerate fast from a near dead stop, unintentionally one can get close to WOT. It was nice having one on my 84' Bronco with a 302 which was a dog. It actually kicked down slightly before WOT to I had some unintentional and annoying downshifts. I also setup a kickdown lever on a 84 F150. It is kind of a tricky thing to make it work just right with the edelbrock carb so I want to avoid if at all possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 Right... when you are wanting to accelerate fast from a near dead stop, unintentionally one can get close to WOT. It was nice having one on my 84' Bronco with a 302 which was a dog. It actually kicked down slightly before WOT to I had some unintentional and annoying downshifts. I also setup a kickdown lever on a 84 F150. It is kind of a tricky thing to make it work just right with the edelbrock carb so I want to avoid if at all possible. That's why I've not bothered with a kickdown lever. You can always pull it down via the shift lever and it doesn't make a difference until close to WOT, so why bother? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 That's why I've not bothered with a kickdown lever. You can always pull it down via the shift lever and it doesn't make a difference until close to WOT, so why bother? Agreed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted May 21 Author Share Posted May 21 Agreed Well transmission started acting up again… slipping. Dropped pan again. Found debris .. but not as much as last time. Chunks looked like soft material (band?). No metal chunks. I replaced with fresh fluid (about 5.5 qts that came from the pan... I had just drove it a bit... usually after sitting there should be more fluid). No snake oil as there should be remnant from the heavy dose last time in the torque converter. No more slipping for now. I guess repeat this a few more times until 1) it’s fixed , or 2) it stops moving altogether Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted May 22 Author Share Posted May 22 Well transmission started acting up again… slipping. Dropped pan again. Found debris .. but not as much as last time. Chunks looked like soft material (band?). No metal chunks. I replaced with fresh fluid (about 5.5 qts that came from the pan... I had just drove it a bit... usually after sitting there should be more fluid). No snake oil as there should be remnant from the heavy dose last time in the torque converter. No more slipping for now. I guess repeat this a few more times until 1) it’s fixed , or 2) it stops moving altogether I think we have hit normalcy for a while now.. but I cannot be sure ever. And the last time I dropped the pan, I realized this unit may have been rebuilt once already... so I don't think we are dealing with ancient internals. My only issue at the moment is that the transmission is unable to downshift to 1 automatically. It was working ... sort of.. I'm having to manually drop it down. I have the following working well - nice engine braking in manual 1st gear, manual 2nd gear - Automatically shifts to 2nd and 3rd - I think it downshifts from 3rd to 2nd well Is the only fix to remove the transfer case and maybe clean the governor ? I love the simplicity of the 2WD trucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 I think we have hit normalcy for a while now.. but I cannot be sure ever. And the last time I dropped the pan, I realized this unit may have been rebuilt once already... so I don't think we are dealing with ancient internals. My only issue at the moment is that the transmission is unable to downshift to 1 automatically. It was working ... sort of.. I'm having to manually drop it down. I have the following working well - nice engine braking in manual 1st gear, manual 2nd gear - Automatically shifts to 2nd and 3rd - I think it downshifts from 3rd to 2nd well Is the only fix to remove the transfer case and maybe clean the governor ? I love the simplicity of the 2WD trucks the governor normally regulates pressure relevant to up shifts but if there is a screen anywhere its possible to be clogged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 the governor normally regulates pressure relevant to up shifts but if there is a screen anywhere its possible to be clogged. I think I'm going to drop the pan again shortly. Replace it with a 2WD pan with a drain plug and corresponding filter, more fresh fluid. The 4WD pan I have with its pick-up tube is picking up gritty fluid from the bottom due to the fluid turbulence. I don't need a 4WD pan to go to the grocery store and work ;) About the downshift, I'm hopeful that with time it will work itself out. I've just been manually dropping to 1 and it has been working well. I feel like I'm driving a one-leg operated manual truck I agree with the approach so far of cleansing the transmission. I think most people I've seen post online just commit transmissions to 'rebuild' when they hear slip without actually troubleshooting it. The troubleshooting process can cost some but at least I have the satisfaction of trying my best before letting someone tear into my truck and hoping they put it back together just right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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