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C6 transmission whining when hot and losing gears


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Negative on both of them.

Tried venting with dipstick out and also tried a bypass hose at cooler. Pump whining starts when things get warm.

the biggest concern for me is not necessarily the whine as I have heard many autos that ran for all the time that I knew them and never knew them to fail. the issue is that your is failing. once warm it is failing to move until cool again. that might be in the torque converter. if it is slipping the clutches or band then it will not reset. if it's a servo failing then it will slip the operated band and only reset a little as long as band friction material exists. is there any chance that you are feeling the stall speed raise as you get it warmer? a symptom of a failed tc. also, this will not burn the fluid yet could contaminate it with metal. much of the heat generated in a c6 comes from the tc due to the way it "works" the fluid.

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Negative on both of them.

Tried venting with dipstick out and also tried a bypass hose at cooler. Pump whining starts when things get warm.

Called a local transmission shop that was recommended highly. They will do a C6 rebuild for $1635 parts and labor.. which seems like a great deal. But they are of course booked up for classic cars and trucks (due to inside parking needs) and can schedule me after June 1st.

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the biggest concern for me is not necessarily the whine as I have heard many autos that ran for all the time that I knew them and never knew them to fail. the issue is that your is failing. once warm it is failing to move until cool again. that might be in the torque converter. if it is slipping the clutches or band then it will not reset. if it's a servo failing then it will slip the operated band and only reset a little as long as band friction material exists. is there any chance that you are feeling the stall speed raise as you get it warmer? a symptom of a failed tc. also, this will not burn the fluid yet could contaminate it with metal. much of the heat generated in a c6 comes from the tc due to the way it "works" the fluid.

Sorry I didn’t see this reply…

Can a failed TC act up only when warm ? Also would it cause pump to not pump fluid to the cooler ?

Reading some more... this could be a stator bushing wear problem. Anything in the install that could contribute to this ? Angles, etc ? Its a 460 swap and the transmission had to scoot back maybe 1/4 inch to help the motor mounts fit right… or is it just plain wore out from 1978 to now ? If you recall a while back I made a post about how I found rust on the transmission oil filter mating surface and Matt said that didn’t look like a good sign :nabble_smiley_scared:

Probably ambitious for me to think this old C6 can sit behind the 460 and do just fine

 

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Sorry I didn’t see this reply…

Can a failed TC act up only when warm ? Also would it cause pump to not pump fluid to the cooler ?

Reading some more... this could be a stator bushing wear problem. Anything in the install that could contribute to this ? Angles, etc ? Its a 460 swap and the transmission had to scoot back maybe 1/4 inch to help the motor mounts fit right… or is it just plain wore out from 1978 to now ? If you recall a while back I made a post about how I found rust on the transmission oil filter mating surface and Matt said that didn’t look like a good sign :nabble_smiley_scared:

Probably ambitious for me to think this old C6 can sit behind the 460 and do just fine

Well.. I did the unthinkable. I have been relying more on snake oils these days!

I had a hunch that the "whine when hot" had something to do with the fluid viscosity being lower so I removed some fluid and added lucas transmission fix in hopes to increase the viscosity. As I poured it down the whine went away and after turning off the truck and back on the gears restored immediately.

I went on a drive. The whine returned after a bit... but compared to before it still moves while whining with noticeable loss in power but gears have not been lost totally. It does take a bit more RPM to move the vehicle when this happens. After turning off the truck, and firing it back up the power returns immediately. Just posting these data points in hopes of better understanding whats going on inside. I just don't know what is inside that "black box".

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Well.. I did the unthinkable. I have been relying more on snake oils these days!

I had a hunch that the "whine when hot" had something to do with the fluid viscosity being lower so I removed some fluid and added lucas transmission fix in hopes to increase the viscosity. As I poured it down the whine went away and after turning off the truck and back on the gears restored immediately.

I went on a drive. The whine returned after a bit... but compared to before it still moves while whining with noticeable loss in power but gears have not been lost totally. It does take a bit more RPM to move the vehicle when this happens. After turning off the truck, and firing it back up the power returns immediately. Just posting these data points in hopes of better understanding whats going on inside. I just don't know what is inside that "black box".

I know that the C6 is susceptible to problems after sitting for some time. I don't know if the seals shrink or what, but I've seen it where something like Sea Foam "cured" the transmission after a bit of driving.

Ken from NZ reported years ago that driving as fast as you dare go in Reverse tends to force fluid in places it wouldn't otherwise go, and I've heard people say they tried it and it helped.

So if it was my tranny I'd try all the tricks I could before pulling it and having it rebuilt.

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Well.. I did the unthinkable. I have been relying more on snake oils these days!

I had a hunch that the "whine when hot" had something to do with the fluid viscosity being lower so I removed some fluid and added lucas transmission fix in hopes to increase the viscosity. As I poured it down the whine went away and after turning off the truck and back on the gears restored immediately.

I went on a drive. The whine returned after a bit... but compared to before it still moves while whining with noticeable loss in power but gears have not been lost totally. It does take a bit more RPM to move the vehicle when this happens. After turning off the truck, and firing it back up the power returns immediately. Just posting these data points in hopes of better understanding whats going on inside. I just don't know what is inside that "black box".

changing the makeup of the oil this way may have just "conditioned" a seal or two by having a thicker consistency. I'm not sure if Lucas is a thinner or thickener or possibly a seal sweller. I have not tried it. but it may just be saying its time. as to the tc then yes, maybe. thicker fluid will respond more positively inside a converter yet if this is happening then it's well worn. they do wear out and need to be rebuilt. most that are available are remanned.

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I know that the C6 is susceptible to problems after sitting for some time. I don't know if the seals shrink or what, but I've seen it where something like Sea Foam "cured" the transmission after a bit of driving.

Ken from NZ reported years ago that driving as fast as you dare go in Reverse tends to force fluid in places it wouldn't otherwise go, and I've heard people say they tried it and it helped.

So if it was my tranny I'd try all the tricks I could before pulling it and having it rebuilt.

Thanks Gary!

When I dropped the pan a while back, I found some atrocities in it. It was a LOT of sludge. It was really a coin toss. But I was too excited and kept moving! Get everything assembled and baselined and work down the problem list was my approach.

My other 460/C6 example in Big Blue 2WD is a completely different story. I know it is a rebuilt unit. Fluid is clear as can be and has a blue torque converter (those are my clues!) Anyway.... it shifts like a machine gun and there is so much more power in it I can tell. Just doesn't feel like a Stock C6.

The Bronco has the better 460 in it based on compression values and also a higher 3.5 gearing however all the power comes in when the vehicle is already in motion. From a dead stop, Big Blue 2WD is much stronger and I know all that loss in the bronco is in the transmission.

I am just hopeful that after a proper rebuild it would do justice to the 460 in front of it. I had doubts throwing an aged C6 behind it from day 1.

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changing the makeup of the oil this way may have just "conditioned" a seal or two by having a thicker consistency. I'm not sure if Lucas is a thinner or thickener or possibly a seal sweller. I have not tried it. but it may just be saying its time. as to the tc then yes, maybe. thicker fluid will respond more positively inside a converter yet if this is happening then it's well worn. they do wear out and need to be rebuilt. most that are available are remanned.

I agree !! Its probably time

After 1 bottle I am still not out of the woods. I don't have a no drive situation anymore but still a whine + loss of power when hot. I think one more bottle would hopefully add more to the transmission until its decommisioned.

I have a car show at my workplace this Friday and I was really hoping to take the Bronco :nabble_smiley_thinking: But Big Blue 2WD probably got jealous :nabble_smiley_evil:

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I agree !! Its probably time

After 1 bottle I am still not out of the woods. I don't have a no drive situation anymore but still a whine + loss of power when hot. I think one more bottle would hopefully add more to the transmission until its decommisioned.

I have a car show at my workplace this Friday and I was really hoping to take the Bronco :nabble_smiley_thinking: But Big Blue 2WD probably got jealous :nabble_smiley_evil:

hmmm. will big blue feel better towing the bronco home?

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hmmm. will big blue feel better towing the bronco home?

That would make Big Blue's day but at this point Big Blue 2wd should be at the car show! If I did go to the transmission shop I will need to tow the Bronco using Big Blue, or use my AAA. UHAUL's towing guide says I can't tow the Bronco with a 1984 F350 but thats kind of BS.

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