mat in tn Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Wow! How did I miss those dimples? I've done that so many times I should have seen that. Cool! now that you have the x member landed how does the bell crank assembly look. are you modifying? how are you connecting to the 4r70w ball stud made for the newer style cable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarheel Blue Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 now that you have the x member landed how does the bell crank assembly look. are you modifying? how are you connecting to the 4r70w ball stud made for the newer style cable? Made some progress on the bell crank issues. In order to get the shaft of the assembly that runs from a bracket on the frame to the bracket on the trans in a more perpendicular alignment I relocated the grommet hole by 1.375” I took this NOS bracket and welded part of the C6 bracket and sprayed a little black on it. Currently I’m using the shift lever arm that is in the center of this photo. I drilled the hole to accept the grommet to accept the connecting rod that goes to the lever on the bell crank. All looks like it’s going to work well, I just can’t confirm as my steering column is not in its final position. Until I get it bolted in place I’m afraid that all of the compounding geometries of angles/ rotations and spans would give me false indications of success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 Made some progress on the bell crank issues. In order to get the shaft of the assembly that runs from a bracket on the frame to the bracket on the trans in a more perpendicular alignment I relocated the grommet hole by 1.375” I took this NOS bracket and welded part of the C6 bracket and sprayed a little black on it. Currently I’m using the shift lever arm that is in the center of this photo. I drilled the hole to accept the grommet to accept the connecting rod that goes to the lever on the bell crank. All looks like it’s going to work well, I just can’t confirm as my steering column is not in its final position. Until I get it bolted in place I’m afraid that all of the compounding geometries of angles/ rotations and spans would give me false indications of success. the connector link has a bit of a double dog leg offset to it. the selector shaft on a bell crank design has a definite double offset. as much as 1-1/4". this way all of the pivot points are at right angles at least. this was not an issue with cable selector designs. and why the 4r70w had a much flatter lever. flat for most cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarheel Blue Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 the connector link has a bit of a double dog leg offset to it. the selector shaft on a bell crank design has a definite double offset. as much as 1-1/4". this way all of the pivot points are at right angles at least. this was not an issue with cable selector designs. and why the 4r70w had a much flatter lever. flat for most cars. Here’s a different photo showing the offset. Again, I’m currently mocking everything up using the center arm and seems like it aligns well. Part # F75P 7A256-AA for anyone that’s interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarheel Blue Posted May 21 Author Share Posted May 21 Here’s a different photo showing the offset. Again, I’m currently mocking everything up using the center arm and seems like it aligns well. Part # F75P 7A256-AA for anyone that’s interested. The other day Matt had asked if I’d checked my pinion/ yoke angles. Yes I did and they match, but that made me remember to pass along a couple of tips or lessons learned. First is something that most people probably already know, your smart phone has an app that works as a level or angle finder. Cool! Second would be that, somewhere in the late 1900s, Ford switched the design of the trans mission x-member from what I call the tall or raised x-member to a flat x-member. This resulted in a change of the transmission mount height. The earlier mount is shorter, something right at 2” tall while the later mount is closer to 2 5/8” This corresponds nicely with the difference in the two x-members. So, you need to match the mount to the x-member rather than matching the mount to the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 The other day Matt had asked if I’d checked my pinion/ yoke angles. Yes I did and they match, but that made me remember to pass along a couple of tips or lessons learned. First is something that most people probably already know, your smart phone has an app that works as a level or angle finder. Cool! Second would be that, somewhere in the late 1900s, Ford switched the design of the trans mission x-member from what I call the tall or raised x-member to a flat x-member. This resulted in a change of the transmission mount height. The earlier mount is shorter, something right at 2” tall while the later mount is closer to 2 5/8” This corresponds nicely with the difference in the two x-members. So, you need to match the mount to the x-member rather than matching the mount to the transmission. Good to know. Thanks. I'm following this as I'm going with an E4OD in Dad's truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 Good to know. Thanks. I'm following this as I'm going with an E4OD in Dad's truck. I know that there are differences and that is why I asked. I don't always know the specs per the install and as much as I hate it, I get numbers transposed at times. so, I try to keep notes and literature available. a tail shaft lifted too high or set too low from a mount change could cause a vibration from the driveshaft in some cases. I doubt we are talking 100 plus mph though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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