ratdude747 Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 Hmmmm. I was under the impression it was factory air but I’m not sure where I got that so I may have just assumed it. I will have to check a bit closer and see how to identify it. What kind of AC controls do you have? Most "dealer" systems have a separate A/C switch, sometimes not even with the heater controls. All factory A/C controls are part of the vent selector switch. The compressor does look about right for the Denso FS6 that was used after the York/Tecumseh units were discontinued. But the clutch and the brackets are different from what my 1984 300 with a stock FS6 has. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derek Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 What kind of AC controls do you have? Most "dealer" systems have a separate A/C switch, sometimes not even with the heater controls. All factory A/C controls are part of the vent selector switch. The compressor does look about right for the Denso FS6 that was used after the York/Tecumseh units were discontinued. But the clutch and the brackets are different from what my 1984 300 with a stock FS6 has. Oh yeah it’s the standard ac controls like they are shown in the documentation section, as part of the vent selector switch. I do think our brackets would be different because of the different engines. We have the 6.6/400. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 Oh yeah it’s the standard ac controls like they are shown in the documentation section, as part of the vent selector switch. I do think our brackets would be different because of the different engines. We have the 6.6/400. Whoops... had it in my head you had a 300 (wrong thread!). Clutch differences aside, that's a Denso FS6 all right. If it's like the later FS10 (like my 1995 ranger uses), the compressor shaft seal is a common issue. Tried to rebuild one once but ran outta luck due to a galled shaft (which shredded the new seal)... later one when that truck was totalled and I replaced it (another 1995 ranger), the same issue came up, and that time, I bought a new unit from denso via Rockauto. Sadly, denso no longer makes the FS6, so that's not an option. When my 84 blew it's shaft seal (felt under clutch was soaked in PAG oil), I found a NOS Motorcraft reman for a great price on eBay. Didn't have any oil in it, so I was able to dump in the PAG needed for the R134a the system had already been converted to. Didn't include the clutch parts (which is fine, since I had replaced the entire set the year before). I still have the old one... never tore it down to see if the shaft was OK (which could be rebuilt in such a case). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 So my Understanding is, that is the compressor is engaged and not releasing, it is low/out of refrigerant. I could be wrong. I am new to this. It could also be something wrong with the accumulator switch. What MattinTN noted is all correct. I would only add that the Vintage Air E-Z clip system looks VERY promising. Can custom remake all the hoses. #10 for the suction, #8 for the condensor to compressor. I may go that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 So my Understanding is, that is the compressor is engaged and not releasing, it is low/out of refrigerant. I could be wrong. I am new to this. It could also be something wrong with the accumulator switch. What MattinTN noted is all correct. I would only add that the Vintage Air E-Z clip system looks VERY promising. Can custom remake all the hoses. #10 for the suction, #8 for the condensor to compressor. I may go that route. If it's low on pressure the clutch should not engage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 If it's low on pressure the clutch should not engage. so does that mean if it is low on rXXX it should only free-spin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 If it's low on pressure the clutch should not engage. so does that mean if it is low on rXXX it should only free-spin? absolutely. the cycle switch measures pressure. when pressure drops below the threshold the switch opens interrupting the circuit to the a/c compressor clutch. like a circuit breaker. only to be reset by the pressure returning above the close psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted May 14 Share Posted May 14 If it's low on pressure the clutch should not engage. so does that mean if it is low on rXXX it should only free-spin? What Mat said, that's why I was saying when you first service the system you will have to jumper that switch to get the compressor going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted May 15 Share Posted May 15 What Mat said, that's why I was saying when you first service the system you will have to jumper that switch to get the compressor going. OK I got it…I see jumping in my future then upon first install of refrigerant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 16 Share Posted May 16 OK I got it…I see jumping in my future then upon first install of refrigerant. not always needed. I normally set up the gauges on the 134a bottle inverted on the scale with the valve still closed. And otherwise hooked to the system. then pull the vacuum. after satisfied there are no leaks, I open the bottle valve and flow in liquid by weight. this normally lets me install a full charge by weight then adjust slightly with vapor while truck is running and stabilizing. using a vent thermometer as a second opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts