Gary Lewis Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 True about the paint - I was just happy I was able to find it! If anyone else has a picture, I'd be curious to see what theirs looks like. I'm pretty confident things are good with the grounds to the engine. I know for sure the EEC has a ground to a post on the intake that I redid. I'll try to trace this one back and see if it's part of the same harness coming through the firewall or is something different. My back is better each day, once every couple years I get spasms that lock up my lower back and after a few days the muscles relax and I'm back to normal. It could be worse! Maybe I'll try to relocate that ground - or even jumper it to somewhere else as a test? I still think there is a problem when turning the wheel that is separate. The ohms shouldn't jump around from just turning the wheel. The copper contacts on the switch look a little worn, but I'm assuming since the back of the wheel rubs on that, it's normal? Perhaps I should use fine grit sandpaper and sand the disc on the back of the steering wheel? I'm probably getting ahead of myself - one thing at a time. But I'm trying to anticipate my next move... Glad to see the back is getting better. I've had a few of those and they are not fun. I don't understand how the steering shaft is supposed to be grounded. The factory bearings top and bottom have plastic races and the top one is then set in rubber. So it can't ground through the bearings. Perhaps it is supposed to ground through the rag joint to the steering box? But I'm not convinced the steering box's bearings are a good conductor of electricity. In any event, we had a discussion about this in the thread entitled Steering Column Ground, and you might want to at least read this post. In that post there's a pic with three brushes and a description of the purpose for each. Check to see if the ground one on your column is actually grounded. Does it change if you move things? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 Its been a long time but I had a "lesson learned" when I installed the turn signal switch. There are 2 screws that hold the turn signal switch to the column. I think if you overtighten those screws that will reduce the spring tension BETWEEN the PINS that connect the blue and yellow wire AND the "RACES" on the backside of the wheel... which in turn will affect resistance value depending on wheel position.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 Glad to see the back is getting better. I've had a few of those and they are not fun. I don't understand how the steering shaft is supposed to be grounded. The factory bearings top and bottom have plastic races and the top one is then set in rubber. So it can't ground through the bearings. Perhaps it is supposed to ground through the rag joint to the steering box? But I'm not convinced the steering box's bearings are a good conductor of electricity. In any event, we had a discussion about this in the thread entitled Steering Column Ground, and you might want to at least read this post. In that post there's a pic with three brushes and a description of the purpose for each. Check to see if the ground one on your column is actually grounded. Does it change if you move things? Thanks Gary! I'm reading up and am gathering things to try. I'm going to focus on just getting the ohm readings to come out correctly. I suppose I could even try things just on the wheel itself, and make sure the switches have the right resistance values out to the hub of the steering wheel? I also stumbled on this post from Ron - is this a real thing? (I'm guessing so!) If so, I'm missing a brush according to his picture.. (see my photo above) If I need it, any ideas where I can get one??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 Its been a long time but I had a "lesson learned" when I installed the turn signal switch. There are 2 screws that hold the turn signal switch to the column. I think if you overtighten those screws that will reduce the spring tension BETWEEN the PINS that connect the blue and yellow wire AND the "RACES" on the backside of the wheel... which in turn will affect resistance value depending on wheel position.. That is worth a definite shot Vivek, thanks for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 Thanks Gary! I'm reading up and am gathering things to try. I'm going to focus on just getting the ohm readings to come out correctly. I suppose I could even try things just on the wheel itself, and make sure the switches have the right resistance values out to the hub of the steering wheel? I also stumbled on this post from Ron - is this a real thing? (I'm guessing so!) If so, I'm missing a brush according to his picture.. (see my photo above) If I need it, any ideas where I can get one??? One more note, this blurb from Dennis Carpenter mentions a speed control brush assembly needing to be re-added/connected. I think the part number contains 9C899, but for the life of me I can't find an example of it that makes any sense. Do I have a missing link (no pun intended)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 Thanks Gary! I'm reading up and am gathering things to try. I'm going to focus on just getting the ohm readings to come out correctly. I suppose I could even try things just on the wheel itself, and make sure the switches have the right resistance values out to the hub of the steering wheel? I also stumbled on this post from Ron - is this a real thing? (I'm guessing so!) If so, I'm missing a brush according to his picture.. (see my photo above) If I need it, any ideas where I can get one??? Chris - Using the verbiage from my post in the Steering Column Ground thread, I think you have all the pins "with the one circled in red being the ground, the one in yellow being power, and the one in blue going to the speed control". Those match my pic in that post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 One more note, this blurb from Dennis Carpenter mentions a speed control brush assembly needing to be re-added/connected. I think the part number contains 9C899, but for the life of me I can't find an example of it that makes any sense. Do I have a missing link (no pun intended)? As for 9C899, that is the ground pin, as you can see from this snippet of the illustration: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 As for 9C899, that is the ground pin, as you can see from this snippet of the illustration: Thanks Gary. I'm feeling better today so I started measuring resistance again. Same results as yesterday, actually it was a little worse. I decided to move the turn directional switch out of the way, and take a look at the bearing. I posted a video here I'm guessing I should replace the upper bearing, right? I'm not sure if its related or not, but the wheel has some "jiggle" in it, perhaps the continuity is disrupted. I need to take the whole upper flange off to replace the bearing, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 Thanks Gary. I'm feeling better today so I started measuring resistance again. Same results as yesterday, actually it was a little worse. I decided to move the turn directional switch out of the way, and take a look at the bearing. I posted a video here I'm guessing I should replace the upper bearing, right? I'm not sure if its related or not, but the wheel has some "jiggle" in it, perhaps the continuity is disrupted. I need to take the whole upper flange off to replace the bearing, right? Chris - If you have a tilt column, as I think you do, then I can't answer your question as Big Blue has a non-tilt column and that's what I've just been into. But on my column the upper bearing doesn't have anything to do with the grounding of the column. The bearing has plastic races and is encased in rubber, so there's no chance it'll conduct. If I were you I'd pull it apart to see what the issue is. The instructions are on our page at Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns & Steering Wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 Chris - If you have a tilt column, as I think you do, then I can't answer your question as Big Blue has a non-tilt column and that's what I've just been into. But on my column the upper bearing doesn't have anything to do with the grounding of the column. The bearing has plastic races and is encased in rubber, so there's no chance it'll conduct. If I were you I'd pull it apart to see what the issue is. The instructions are on our page at Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns & Steering Wheels. Am I confusing lower vs upper? I would assume the bearing showing in my video with the steering shaft is the "upper" and I think the illustration supports that. It looks metal to me, and this link for a replacement looks correct. I guess what I am asking so far for this portion of the adventure is: Is the play of the steering shaft in the video acceptable? Should I replace it while I have the column apart again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts