Time for A/C Rebuild

[AmericanSavage]

this is a very common problem with semi hermetic systems. the crankshaft either does leak or will leak. a perfect seal is very difficult, yet many achieve it, so we know it's possible. I'm not sure about blaming a distributor for selling the parts that are available. obviously for is no longer making these for our trucks. it is disappointing how much crap is sold for us old car guys. reman is my method over new.

Hey Matt,

Yes, poor wording on my part. It’s like we make nothing well anymore.

[AmericanSavage]

Thanks. How much PAG46 oil did you use ? Should have used around 7-8oz.

also the high side pressure seems a bit low... indicating a compressor problem.. should be north of 200 if the low side is 30-35, assuming the ambient is 80C or higher.

Per documentation at

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/hvac-systems.html

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n154523/HVAC.png

I have about 4-5 in it. I was looking at the Light Manual and it does indeed say 7-8—I missed it somehow. However, I have not run this a lot with the air on so I am not sure if there was any harm here. I have some PAG 46 on the way, HOWEVER, I highly doubt that will fix my leak issue. Yes? IT MAY, I suppose, calm down that rattle when the clutch engages?

Appreciate the comments. FRANKLIN2 suggests I try some spray bottle soap water all around for leak spottage as well, which I may do today.

 

[viven44]

Thanks. How much PAG46 oil did you use ? Should have used around 7-8oz.

also the high side pressure seems a bit low... indicating a compressor problem.. should be north of 200 if the low side is 30-35, assuming the ambient is 80C or higher.

Per documentation at

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/hvac-systems.html

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n154523/HVAC.png

I have about 4-5 in it. I was looking at the Light Manual and it does indeed say 7-8—I missed it somehow. However, I have not run this a lot with the air on so I am not sure if there was any harm here. I have some PAG 46 on the way, HOWEVER, I highly doubt that will fix my leak issue. Yes? IT MAY, I suppose, calm down that rattle when the clutch engages?

Appreciate the comments. FRANKLIN2 suggests I try some spray bottle soap water all around for leak spottage as well, which I may do today.

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-system-oil/p/a-c-certified-pro-r134a-pag-46-with-uv-dye-refrigerant-oil-8oz/667637_0_0

I always use that oil as it provides a visual cue on leak

Without adequate lubrication, the compressor will have a short lifespan. That said, I dont think 4-5oz was probably low enough to immediately kill it...

If you have a compressor shaft leak (Which appears to be the case based on the video), it is difficult to spot with UV dye though...

I'm afraid you are heading down the path of compressor replacement if you cannot build high side pressure of at least 200PSI.. that much is a given

And one more thing is... everytime you remove a manifold gauge, unless you do it a certain way it will cause refrigerant loss through the high side as there is refrigerant stuck in the high side hose.

Here is what I do to disconnect just based on what made sense to me (idea is to remove all high pressure / volume of refrigerant from the high side/discharge side and send it into the system through the low side/suction side)

1) Assuming you have the manifold gauge hooked and both the high and low manifold valves closed, Turn off vehicle

2) Close the high side service port valve (assuming your gauge set has a valve there) and remove it from the service port

3) Ensure middle (charge) port is sealed to outside

4) Open the high side and low side manifold valve. This will send all the high pressure gases into the system through the low side port. You will see the pressure equalize between the low and high side gauges and settle at ~70PSI or so

5) At this point, CLOSE the low and high side manifold valve

5) Turn on vehicle, and assuming the low side service port valve is the only thing open, the system should suck whatever is left in the low side hose

6) Close and remove the low side service valve

[AmericanSavage]

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-system-oil/p/a-c-certified-pro-r134a-pag-46-with-uv-dye-refrigerant-oil-8oz/667637_0_0

I always use that oil as it provides a visual cue on leak

Without adequate lubrication, the compressor will have a short lifespan. That said, I dont think 4-5oz was probably low enough to immediately kill it...

If you have a compressor shaft leak (Which appears to be the case based on the video), it is difficult to spot with UV dye though...

I'm afraid you are heading down the path of compressor replacement if you cannot build high side pressure of at least 200PSI.. that much is a given

And one more thing is... everytime you remove a manifold gauge, unless you do it a certain way it will cause refrigerant loss through the high side as there is refrigerant stuck in the high side hose.

Here is what I do to disconnect just based on what made sense to me (idea is to remove all high pressure / volume of refrigerant from the high side/discharge side and send it into the system through the low side/suction side)

1) Assuming you have the manifold gauge hooked and both the high and low manifold valves closed, Turn off vehicle

2) Close the high side service port valve (assuming your gauge set has a valve there) and remove it from the service port

3) Ensure middle (charge) port is sealed to outside

4) Open the high side and low side manifold valve. This will send all the high pressure gases into the system through the low side port. You will see the pressure equalize between the low and high side gauges and settle at ~70PSI or so

5) At this point, CLOSE the low and high side manifold valve

5) Turn on vehicle, and assuming the low side service port valve is the only thing open, the system should suck whatever is left in the low side hose

6) Close and remove the low side service valve

Thanks Viven….I may give this a final shot today.

As I understand adding the oil, I should pull a vaccuum and suck the oil through the high side. i am thinking of adding 3oz.

Then, I will let it sit for a while and see if the dials note a leak. If not, back to a couple bottles of refrigerant. I will apply the manifold steps you suggest.

Does this sound right?

 

[AmericanSavage]

FUZZFACE2 suggested I try one more charge, so i did. Low side reading is shown, but wound up at 60. High side I forgot to get on camera, but wound up around 250.

You can get a sense of the sound of the clacking of the compressor here. BUT after I added 2oz of PAG 46, it quieted down a lot. Still, I think the front seal is leaking. Will know more tomorrow.

 

[viven44]

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-system-oil/p/a-c-certified-pro-r134a-pag-46-with-uv-dye-refrigerant-oil-8oz/667637_0_0

I always use that oil as it provides a visual cue on leak

Without adequate lubrication, the compressor will have a short lifespan. That said, I dont think 4-5oz was probably low enough to immediately kill it...

If you have a compressor shaft leak (Which appears to be the case based on the video), it is difficult to spot with UV dye though...

I'm afraid you are heading down the path of compressor replacement if you cannot build high side pressure of at least 200PSI.. that much is a given

And one more thing is... everytime you remove a manifold gauge, unless you do it a certain way it will cause refrigerant loss through the high side as there is refrigerant stuck in the high side hose.

Here is what I do to disconnect just based on what made sense to me (idea is to remove all high pressure / volume of refrigerant from the high side/discharge side and send it into the system through the low side/suction side)

1) Assuming you have the manifold gauge hooked and both the high and low manifold valves closed, Turn off vehicle

2) Close the high side service port valve (assuming your gauge set has a valve there) and remove it from the service port

3) Ensure middle (charge) port is sealed to outside

4) Open the high side and low side manifold valve. This will send all the high pressure gases into the system through the low side port. You will see the pressure equalize between the low and high side gauges and settle at ~70PSI or so

5) At this point, CLOSE the low and high side manifold valve

5) Turn on vehicle, and assuming the low side service port valve is the only thing open, the system should suck whatever is left in the low side hose

6) Close and remove the low side service valve

Thanks Viven….I may give this a final shot today.

As I understand adding the oil, I should pull a vaccuum and suck the oil through the high side. i am thinking of adding 3oz.

Then, I will let it sit for a while and see if the dials note a leak. If not, back to a couple bottles of refrigerant. I will apply the manifold steps you suggest.

Does this sound right?

Oil and refrigerant should always be added on the low side (Suction side). High side would not even take in the charge.

[viven44]

FUZZFACE2 suggested I try one more charge, so i did. Low side reading is shown, but wound up at 60. High side I forgot to get on camera, but wound up around 250.

You can get a sense of the sound of the clacking of the compressor here. BUT after I added 2oz of PAG 46, it quieted down a lot. Still, I think the front seal is leaking. Will know more tomorrow.

60 on the low side is very high. It should be no higher than 50 unless it was middle of summer 110C.

Good luck!! Hope the charge holds.

 

[grumpin]

FUZZFACE2 suggested I try one more charge, so i did. Low side reading is shown, but wound up at 60. High side I forgot to get on camera, but wound up around 250.

You can get a sense of the sound of the clacking of the compressor here. BUT after I added 2oz of PAG 46, it quieted down a lot. Still, I think the front seal is leaking. Will know more tomorrow.

When you are servicing or even checking the pressure, do you have high and low side open to the gauges?

[AmericanSavage]

When you are servicing or even checking the pressure, do you have high and low side open to the gauges?

Grumpin got me thinking: Did i set up the gauges right for a diagnostic reading yesterday? The answer is NO, I concluded. So, I went out this morning and did it properly. About 40ish on the low, 150 on the high. Vid shows it all for the most part. I think I am in spec here.

Charge held. Cooling ran me out of the truck this morning. So far so good. We shall see over the next few days whether it held. Adding the oil really helped quiet things down, but it is still a noisy beast to my liking.

Really, thanks to all here, and FUZZFACE2 for the advice to give it one more try on another site. Let’s hope it holds.

[grumpin]

Grumpin got me thinking: Did i set up the gauges right for a diagnostic reading yesterday? The answer is NO, I concluded. So, I went out this morning and did it properly. About 40ish on the low, 150 on the high. Vid shows it all for the most part. I think I am in spec here.

Charge held. Cooling ran me out of the truck this morning. So far so good. We shall see over the next few days whether it held. Adding the oil really helped quiet things down, but it is still a noisy beast to my liking.

Really, thanks to all here, and FUZZFACE2 for the advice to give it one more try on another site. Let’s hope it holds.

Good to hear, hope it holds up!