Gary Lewis Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Well, I'm still worried as the cable is still on my work table. I don't know where to ship it! So if you sent me an email please do so again at janeyandgary@gmail.com. By the way, I like your hose routing. In the early Bullnose years they went diagonally across the engine. Back to the firewall is MUCH better. I sent email on 27th! Resending. Got it this time. Thanks. I plan to get it out tomorrow as today is busy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 Got it this time. Thanks. I plan to get it out tomorrow as today is busy. While I am waiting for the parts to arrive, I did try something out. I found a D3TZ 18518-B. It is 3 inches longer than the original E0TZ 19988—but matches up pretty well (same ends as original almost) So, I gave it a whirl, and…..it works. It is a readily available part and easy to get from Dennis C. Just thought I would pass this on. It gets hot when flap opens to heat, and cools nicely on cool. Length is 43”; Original is about 40” give or take. I may have an A/C issue though. I do not seem to have a leak, but something is off….I got it cold and sweating on initial charge, but when I went out to see if all was well a day later, compressor would not switch on until I added one can of r134. I fear the worst….not sure is the system is secure, or what. But I do know on vac test, I never lost pressure. Not sure why the compressor did not kick on this morning until the can was added. I tried a couple hours later, and the compressor kicked on and cooled. Will see what happens tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 While I am waiting for the parts to arrive, I did try something out. I found a D3TZ 18518-B. It is 3 inches longer than the original E0TZ 19988—but matches up pretty well (same ends as original almost) So, I gave it a whirl, and…..it works. It is a readily available part and easy to get from Dennis C. Just thought I would pass this on. It gets hot when flap opens to heat, and cools nicely on cool. Length is 43”; Original is about 40” give or take. I may have an A/C issue though. I do not seem to have a leak, but something is off….I got it cold and sweating on initial charge, but when I went out to see if all was well a day later, compressor would not switch on until I added one can of r134. I fear the worst….not sure is the system is secure, or what. But I do know on vac test, I never lost pressure. Not sure why the compressor did not kick on this morning until the can was added. I tried a couple hours later, and the compressor kicked on and cooled. Will see what happens tomorrow. Good to know there is an alternative to that cable. And I guess the ends where enough different to be a problem? As for the issue of the compressor coming on, I had a bad hose on Big Blue that didn't always leak. It was where the fitting was crimped on the end and leaked when it was moved, like when the engine torqued over during acceleration. We never did really figure out when it leaked for sure, except that when they moved it by hand it leaked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idaho Potato Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 I forgot some links! I have these and they work fine for me. https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-61245.html https://www.harborfreight.com/r134a-ac-manifold-gauge-set-58776.html Edit to add this, I got one at Autozone, but I think this will be fine. Gives you better control while changing cans and such. https://www.harborfreight.com/r134a-self-sealing-ac-refrigerant-can-tap-valve-58638.html Doesn't the Harbor Freight gauge set come with the valve to hook to a can? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idaho Potato Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 Today I got the condenser in, and the A/C bracket on. Let me just say, they sure don’t make things like they used to. The compressor I took off had to be the original. It was beefy, and had support brackets around the fittings. This one? Really wimpy by comparison. No place to reinstall the brackets. Oh also, since I was there, put the new fan shroud in I picked up from Dennis carpenter. Supreme fit. Anyway, here are a couple pics: What condenser did you buy for this setup? Never found it in the post. Mine is a dealer installed with hose clamps.... Its got to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 While I am waiting for the parts to arrive, I did try something out. I found a D3TZ 18518-B. It is 3 inches longer than the original E0TZ 19988—but matches up pretty well (same ends as original almost) So, I gave it a whirl, and…..it works. It is a readily available part and easy to get from Dennis C. Just thought I would pass this on. It gets hot when flap opens to heat, and cools nicely on cool. Length is 43”; Original is about 40” give or take. I may have an A/C issue though. I do not seem to have a leak, but something is off….I got it cold and sweating on initial charge, but when I went out to see if all was well a day later, compressor would not switch on until I added one can of r134. I fear the worst….not sure is the system is secure, or what. But I do know on vac test, I never lost pressure. Not sure why the compressor did not kick on this morning until the can was added. I tried a couple hours later, and the compressor kicked on and cooled. Will see what happens tomorrow. How much R134a did you use on the initial charge ? What was the high side and low side pressure at initial charge ? Thinking if you were borderline on the charge needed and the next time you turned on the vehicle it wasn't as warm as it was outside when you charged it first and the pressure was below the pressure switch cutoff. The correct amount of R134a is about 80% of the R12 recommended on the sticker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 How much R134a did you use on the initial charge ? What was the high side and low side pressure at initial charge ? Thinking if you were borderline on the charge needed and the next time you turned on the vehicle it wasn't as warm as it was outside when you charged it first and the pressure was below the pressure switch cutoff. The correct amount of R134a is about 80% of the R12 recommended on the sticker. Hi everyone: Everything was new, and purchased from LMC—Bronco GY was sold out of everything, or I would have went with them. The standard problem is this: When I fill it gets REALLY cold. Compressor mostly stays on/clutch engaged. High pressure around 100-150. Suction line huddles around 30-35 up and down highest 40. Once it dips to 30 compressor cuts. Originally, I filled with 3 cans. Cold as can be. (My sticker is gone by the way—HOWEVER on a 1979 with same compressor and brackets—I think there is a cleveland still in it!—at junkyard, stick says 2.75 lbs R12) Then every morning after I go out, and the compressor turns on and off in rather quick fashion, and it never gets cold—ok, well maybe a tad cool. If I add a can, cold as can be again. Next morning….repeat. After running today, without adding any can, I used an electronic sniffer I picked up. The only place it beeps in rapid fashion is around the felt near the clutch of the compressor. That could be a false reading, but it does it no place else. Compressor is a four seasons. I am thinking I have a bad compressor out of the box now. I cannot get a beep on ANY of the fittings. This is the third time Rock Auto has sent me bad new (not reman) parts. Thinking of adding a can and using sniffer as I am adding it to make sure I am not getting a false reading. Electronic sniffer beeps when I hover around my manifold gauge by the way, so I know it is working as there is remnant oil/refrig still in the lines. I should add one other thing: this compressor is LOUD—like gravel loud. Without the clutch engaged, the compressor runs smooth, but once engaged, the belt shakes, and the gravel sound is literally felt if I am in the truck. Any comments always helpful! Oh and Gary, as soon as I get the part I will send you $$$$ straight away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 Gary the housing is completely shot—I think I posted in this thread a pic. The wire is thus ok, and in good condition. I am interested in fabricating something if it could be done. For those interested here is a short video of the detection. I need a Sammich now ugh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 For those interested here is a short video of the detection. I need a Sammich now ugh: this is a very common problem with semi hermetic systems. the crankshaft either does leak or will leak. a perfect seal is very difficult, yet many achieve it, so we know it's possible. I'm not sure about blaming a distributor for selling the parts that are available. obviously for is no longer making these for our trucks. it is disappointing how much crap is sold for us old car guys. reman is my method over new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 Hi everyone: Everything was new, and purchased from LMC—Bronco GY was sold out of everything, or I would have went with them. The standard problem is this: When I fill it gets REALLY cold. Compressor mostly stays on/clutch engaged. High pressure around 100-150. Suction line huddles around 30-35 up and down highest 40. Once it dips to 30 compressor cuts. Originally, I filled with 3 cans. Cold as can be. (My sticker is gone by the way—HOWEVER on a 1979 with same compressor and brackets—I think there is a cleveland still in it!—at junkyard, stick says 2.75 lbs R12) Then every morning after I go out, and the compressor turns on and off in rather quick fashion, and it never gets cold—ok, well maybe a tad cool. If I add a can, cold as can be again. Next morning….repeat. After running today, without adding any can, I used an electronic sniffer I picked up. The only place it beeps in rapid fashion is around the felt near the clutch of the compressor. That could be a false reading, but it does it no place else. Compressor is a four seasons. I am thinking I have a bad compressor out of the box now. I cannot get a beep on ANY of the fittings. This is the third time Rock Auto has sent me bad new (not reman) parts. Thinking of adding a can and using sniffer as I am adding it to make sure I am not getting a false reading. Electronic sniffer beeps when I hover around my manifold gauge by the way, so I know it is working as there is remnant oil/refrig still in the lines. I should add one other thing: this compressor is LOUD—like gravel loud. Without the clutch engaged, the compressor runs smooth, but once engaged, the belt shakes, and the gravel sound is literally felt if I am in the truck. Any comments always helpful! Oh and Gary, as soon as I get the part I will send you $$$$ straight away. Thanks. How much PAG46 oil did you use ? Should have used around 7-8oz. also the high side pressure seems a bit low... indicating a compressor problem.. should be north of 200 if the low side is 30-35, assuming the ambient is 80C or higher. Per documentation at https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/hvac-systems.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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