300-6 long block stock engine

[C.Jett]

...Or keep a lookout at junk yards/eBay. Per a quick look at the latter, nothing bullnose specific. I did find this though:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125775892481

Looks to be a 300 out of an industrial application (likely an airport ramp truck). Might need to swap camshafts (Don't know if the industrial 300's were the same cam as carbed bullnose or not) and the valve cover (obviously different) but otherwise, should be the same/similar to a non-cali bullnose engine. My only reservation would be that it's already been rebuilt once and industrial use can be rough... I'd definitely try to offer it down if going that route.

Thanks, ratdude 747, but I’m looking for a step up ? A engine builder or a long block recommendation. CJ

[ratdude747]

Thanks, ratdude 747, but I’m looking for a step up ? A engine builder or a long block recommendation. CJ

Ah. I was under the impression that you needed a core/long block and didn't have a buildable core already.

Have you ever done engine work before? I was able to rebuild mine mostly in my garage over the pandemic (and my employer was shut down for several weeks).

The only things that were farmed out (to a local engine builder), mainly due to a lack of tooling:

-Crank Journal measurement and polishing

-Cylinder boring 0.030" over (due to broken rings destroying the cylinder bores)

-Piston swapping (300's have pressed wrist pins, requires a rod heater to swap)

-Freeze plugs and cam bearings

-Magnafluxing the head (because dummy here dropped it while cleaning it in my driveway).

Everything else (disassembly, painting, and re-assembly) I was able to do with relatively minimal tools compared to what one would need to just swap a long block or rebuilt engine. Main ones being piston ring pliers, piston install sleeve, valve spring compressor, plastigauge (for bearing clearance confirmation), and assembly lube. I also had a set of clip-on rocker arm restrictors that I used for pre-oiling (cranking the oil pump using the distributor shaft chucked in a drill) but I don't think they were actually necessary. Also an engine stand (and a decent one, the 300 is nose-heavy compared to a V8).

That said, I had a few things in my favor that you might not (depending on what shape your core is in)... mainly that the entire valvetrain was in good shape- Head wise, all I needed to do was replace valve stem seals, and I was able to reuse the camshaft, lifters, and pushrods (I bagged and labeled all sets of parts by cylinder and intake/exhaust... very important!)

Reason I say all this is that any engine shop can do work on a 300... but some won't want to "build" it due to a lack of "bling" or "street cred". They want jobs that will get them recognition, not "boring" utilitarian things like 300's. Not that there aren't builders who won't touch such things... there are shops that do a lot of farm/tractor engines that would probably be keen on a 300 build.

Just giving my $0.02.

[mat in tn]

Ah. I was under the impression that you needed a core/long block and didn't have a buildable core already.

Have you ever done engine work before? I was able to rebuild mine mostly in my garage over the pandemic (and my employer was shut down for several weeks).

The only things that were farmed out (to a local engine builder), mainly due to a lack of tooling:

-Crank Journal measurement and polishing

-Cylinder boring 0.030" over (due to broken rings destroying the cylinder bores)

-Piston swapping (300's have pressed wrist pins, requires a rod heater to swap)

-Freeze plugs and cam bearings

-Magnafluxing the head (because dummy here dropped it while cleaning it in my driveway).

Everything else (disassembly, painting, and re-assembly) I was able to do with relatively minimal tools compared to what one would need to just swap a long block or rebuilt engine. Main ones being piston ring pliers, piston install sleeve, valve spring compressor, plastigauge (for bearing clearance confirmation), and assembly lube. I also had a set of clip-on rocker arm restrictors that I used for pre-oiling (cranking the oil pump using the distributor shaft chucked in a drill) but I don't think they were actually necessary. Also an engine stand (and a decent one, the 300 is nose-heavy compared to a V8).

That said, I had a few things in my favor that you might not (depending on what shape your core is in)... mainly that the entire valvetrain was in good shape- Head wise, all I needed to do was replace valve stem seals, and I was able to reuse the camshaft, lifters, and pushrods (I bagged and labeled all sets of parts by cylinder and intake/exhaust... very important!)

Reason I say all this is that any engine shop can do work on a 300... but some won't want to "build" it due to a lack of "bling" or "street cred". They want jobs that will get them recognition, not "boring" utilitarian things like 300's. Not that there aren't builders who won't touch such things... there are shops that do a lot of farm/tractor engines that would probably be keen on a 300 build.

Just giving my $0.02.

I recently completed a 300. it is now for sale but in central nc . this is most likely prohibitive yet there are options. a small local builder even one retired like myself.

[85pig]

Ah. I was under the impression that you needed a core/long block and didn't have a buildable core already.

Have you ever done engine work before? I was able to rebuild mine mostly in my garage over the pandemic (and my employer was shut down for several weeks).

The only things that were farmed out (to a local engine builder), mainly due to a lack of tooling:

-Crank Journal measurement and polishing

-Cylinder boring 0.030" over (due to broken rings destroying the cylinder bores)

-Piston swapping (300's have pressed wrist pins, requires a rod heater to swap)

-Freeze plugs and cam bearings

-Magnafluxing the head (because dummy here dropped it while cleaning it in my driveway).

Everything else (disassembly, painting, and re-assembly) I was able to do with relatively minimal tools compared to what one would need to just swap a long block or rebuilt engine. Main ones being piston ring pliers, piston install sleeve, valve spring compressor, plastigauge (for bearing clearance confirmation), and assembly lube. I also had a set of clip-on rocker arm restrictors that I used for pre-oiling (cranking the oil pump using the distributor shaft chucked in a drill) but I don't think they were actually necessary. Also an engine stand (and a decent one, the 300 is nose-heavy compared to a V8).

That said, I had a few things in my favor that you might not (depending on what shape your core is in)... mainly that the entire valvetrain was in good shape- Head wise, all I needed to do was replace valve stem seals, and I was able to reuse the camshaft, lifters, and pushrods (I bagged and labeled all sets of parts by cylinder and intake/exhaust... very important!)

Reason I say all this is that any engine shop can do work on a 300... but some won't want to "build" it due to a lack of "bling" or "street cred". They want jobs that will get them recognition, not "boring" utilitarian things like 300's. Not that there aren't builders who won't touch such things... there are shops that do a lot of farm/tractor engines that would probably be keen on a 300 build.

Just giving my $0.02.

They're pretty straight-forward to do, but as C. Jett said - he's only got his driveway, so that's a no-go for an engine rebuild.