CDLong Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 The front tires do not spin freely. There is a constant resistance. The driver's side front brake has a sheared bolt. What's the best way to remove it? Drill ir increasing the drill size? Heat it and try to screw it out the back side with vise grips if I have enough bolt? I've never had a lot of luck with e z outs. Sway bar disconnects. Seems to me the collars, (?), should be equal on both sides? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 well, there is a little good news and a little bad. first of all, on the broken bolt. it looks as if the attempt has been made in the past to drill it. I can only surmise that it was tougher than the drill/driller. either way that is what is needed. possibly the process of drill small and step up until you can re tap the spindle. it takes a unique bolt with a cone shaped head. cone shaped under the hex. to fit in the crescent of the retention bracket. if your calipers and hardware were not rusted together, they may have walked out. the brake pads do not have any shim hardware and are probably making noise when starting to brake or letting off. the sway bar end links are better bought new from moog or equivalent. yours seem to have been re bushed with possibly a poly bushing kit. I don't like those in this case. why? because they fall apart like you have here. the end links are side specific and have an odd twist. the geometry of the twin I beams stress these links differently than other types of suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted April 25 Author Share Posted April 25 well, there is a little good news and a little bad. first of all, on the broken bolt. it looks as if the attempt has been made in the past to drill it. I can only surmise that it was tougher than the drill/driller. either way that is what is needed. possibly the process of drill small and step up until you can re tap the spindle. it takes a unique bolt with a cone shaped head. cone shaped under the hex. to fit in the crescent of the retention bracket. if your calipers and hardware were not rusted together, they may have walked out. the brake pads do not have any shim hardware and are probably making noise when starting to brake or letting off. the sway bar end links are better bought new from Moog or equivalent. yours seem to have been re bushed with possibly a poly bushing kit. I don't like those in this case. why? because they fall apart like you have here. the end links are side specific and have an odd twist. the geometry of the twin I beams stress these links differently than other types of suspension. Thanks Matt, once the radius arms are done, Found the connecting links @ Rock Auto. Then on to the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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