Gary Lewis Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 the upper and lower sections of the center shaft are a designed default. they should be tight and are not telescopic in use. it is a crumple zone to reduce impact on the driver in a front-end collision. it works in conjunction with the breakaway aluminum column mount. all movements up or down are caried by the bearings in the upper part of the column. two plastic caged roller bearings held in recesses in the housing by a snap ring. this is also why the lower sector between the gear and column is telescopic. some have installed two borgesons with solid shaft in between defeating the telescopic action without this consideration. it happens a lot in hot rods. Thanks, Vivek. But you don't owe me anything. We had a fun trip and even got to eat at Reba's Place on the way back. Mat - Yes, the telescoping is the safety feature. And my Borgeson telescopes as well. I'm not going to remove any of that, but just stop the movement inside that lower bearing, which is making that noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 Jeff - I don't think the nut on the screw is hitting, but I'll check. I think parallax is the issue as the camera was farther back and makes it look like it hits. Yep, you’re probably right about the parallax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 Jeff - I don't think the nut on the screw is hitting, but I'll check. I think parallax is the issue as the camera was farther back and makes it look like it hits. Yep, you’re probably right about the parallax. Gary, did you fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 Gary, did you fix it? No, Jeff. Wanted to finish the clutch switch bypass and power steering leak before tackling the noise issue. But now with that done I realize that our grandtwins arrive on Wednesday and they may want to drive the truck while here. So I'll put a bit of oil on the spot where it is sliding and grinding and wait until they are gone before taking the steering apart. So it'll be about 10 days before I get to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 No, Jeff. Wanted to finish the clutch switch bypass and power steering leak before tackling the noise issue. But now with that done I realize that our grandtwins arrive on Wednesday and they may want to drive the truck while here. So I'll put a bit of oil on the spot where it is sliding and grinding and wait until they are gone before taking the steering apart. So it'll be about 10 days before I get to that. Do check those 3 screws! On the auto column if my bad memory serves me any good, that is ultimately what opposes the nut behind the steering wheel (the actual nut ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 Do check those 3 screws! On the auto column if my bad memory serves me any good, that is ultimately what opposes the nut behind the steering wheel (the actual nut ) Where are those three screws? It looks like they are the ones holding the lower bearing in, and if that is so then they are tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 Where are those three screws? It looks like they are the ones holding the lower bearing in, and if that is so then they are tight. They are behind the flange extension. They are a pain to get to as you will need to be on the floor looking up... and allen head (at least on the auto column). You will need to remove the plastic surround around the column. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 They are behind the flange extension. They are a pain to get to as you will need to be on the floor looking up... and allen head (at least on the auto column). You will need to remove the plastic surround around the column. Ok, when I get into it I'll check. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 Ok, when I get into it I'll check. Thanks.Well, our grandtwins and daughter went home today, so it was time to pull the steering column apart and see if I can get rid of the chuckle. The first thing I did was to record a video showing looseness between the bearing and the shaft. Turns out the ID of the bearing is .999" and the OD of the shaft is .988" so there was .011" slop. Then I brazed the shaft up and turned it down on the lathe, and got it to .995" which gave a pretty good fit. And since I knew I wanted a spacer between the top of the Borgeson shaft and the inner race of the bearing I found that the red retainer for the original bearing is a perfect fit. I hope to put it back together tomorrow and if there is still some slop I'll open up the top of the column by pulling the steering wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 Well, our grandtwins and daughter went home today, so it was time to pull the steering column apart and see if I can get rid of the chuckle. The first thing I did was to record a video showing looseness between the bearing and the shaft. Turns out the ID of the bearing is .999" and the OD of the shaft is .988" so there was .011" slop. Then I brazed the shaft up and turned it down on the lathe, and got it to .995" which gave a pretty good fit. And since I knew I wanted a spacer between the top of the Borgeson shaft and the inner race of the bearing I found that the red retainer for the original bearing is a perfect fit. I hope to put it back together tomorrow and if there is still some slop I'll open up the top of the column by pulling the steering wheel. Looks good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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