Gary Lewis Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 Ok, "closer" threw me off, but I see what you are saying about muscle memory. However the ZF boot is actually two boots that fit very tightly, so I'm not sure I want to take the cable down through that. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg As for that loop, I left it loose as I don't want to kink it since it might not go through the outer covering then. But yes, the aluminum ferrule will go right near the bead connector. I tried to put the ferrule in the bead connector but it won't go and, as you said, that would put more stress on it, so I'm thinking that a tight loop is the way to go. Thinking about adjustment, my hope is the have just a little slack with the manual throttle all the way down, and it'll take some movement to raise the RPM. The combination of the beaded chain and knurled adjustment you can see at the end of the outer sleeve should let me dial it in. But I have no idea how much I'll be able to raise it - hope it is enough. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig.png Mid-morning report - it is ready under the hood. Drilled the Nylon end for the speed control cable, found about the right place on the bracket for the knurled piece that the cable sheath goes into, drilled and tapped the bracket for that piece, and put the piece in - from the back so it is ready for the cable. Obviously the chain is too long, but I can pull it out the front and clip it off as needed. And I can use the knurled piece for fine tuning if that's needed by just loosening the lock nut. Now it is time to start inside the cab... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 Mid-morning report - it is ready under the hood. Drilled the Nylon end for the speed control cable, found about the right place on the bracket for the knurled piece that the cable sheath goes into, drilled and tapped the bracket for that piece, and put the piece in - from the back so it is ready for the cable. Obviously the chain is too long, but I can pull it out the front and clip it off as needed. And I can use the knurled piece for fine tuning if that's needed by just loosening the lock nut. Now it is time to start inside the cab... Done! And I quit giving it throttle at 3000 RPM, so I think it works. Lots of details to share in case someone is wanting to do this. First, the bushing to go around the t-case shift lever. Theirs has to be drilled out to get it over the lever, but my first attempt wasn't too productive so I cut a piece of 1/2" hose & split it. Worked perfectly. Next, I moved the hand throttle lever to max and wrapped the cable through the ferrule, bead connector, & again through the ferrule and crimped the ferrule with about 1/4" between it and the adjustment piece to ensure that won't limit the travel. Then I cut off the excess cable. Then I backed the hand throttle off to Min and took the slack out of the chain, left an extra bead, and cut the excess off. And with the connector on there's enough slack that it doesn't interfere with the foot throttle. In fact, the hand throttle doesn't start increasing the RPM until the lever is moved quite a ways, so I'm sure that another bead could be taken out. However, since I can get to 3000 RPM I don't see a need to do that. And, here are a couple of shots of the control. I didn't cut any of the outer sheath off so I could relocate it pretty much anywhere if I don't like it there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 Done! And I quit giving it throttle at 3000 RPM, so I think it works. Lots of details to share in case someone is wanting to do this. First, the bushing to go around the t-case shift lever. Theirs has to be drilled out to get it over the lever, but my first attempt wasn't too productive so I cut a piece of 1/2" hose & split it. Worked perfectly. Next, I moved the hand throttle lever to max and wrapped the cable through the ferrule, bead connector, & again through the ferrule and crimped the ferrule with about 1/4" between it and the adjustment piece to ensure that won't limit the travel. Then I cut off the excess cable. Then I backed the hand throttle off to Min and took the slack out of the chain, left an extra bead, and cut the excess off. And with the connector on there's enough slack that it doesn't interfere with the foot throttle. In fact, the hand throttle doesn't start increasing the RPM until the lever is moved quite a ways, so I'm sure that another bead could be taken out. However, since I can get to 3000 RPM I don't see a need to do that. And, here are a couple of shots of the control. I didn't cut any of the outer sheath off so I could relocate it pretty much anywhere if I don't like it there. Looks good! We're getting there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 Looks good! We're getting there Yes, we are! Unless you come up with something else () I think the mod's to the truck are done. There may be an adjustment or two, but now I think it is time to start checking on what tools, recovery gear, etc I have in the truck. Janey and I are taking it to SW OK next Thursday and Friday to drive the Sugar Creek Loop, eat at White Dog Hill restaurant, and then visit the outlet mall in OKC on the way home. It'll be a good shakedown run for the truck after going through the steering, adding the clutch switch bypass and hand throttle, and tightening the power steering connections. Oh yes, I have to also turn the Ewissions light off. It came on, yet again, while putt putting around moving the trailer. I'm sure it is P1506, meaning the engine RPM was higher than the ECU wanted it to be, which usually happens when I'm slowing down in a low gear and the inertia keeps spinning the engine. Haven't figured out how to prevent that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 Yes, we are! Unless you come up with something else () I think the mod's to the truck are done. There may be an adjustment or two, but now I think it is time to start checking on what tools, recovery gear, etc I have in the truck. Janey and I are taking it to SW OK next Thursday and Friday to drive the Sugar Creek Loop, eat at White Dog Hill restaurant, and then visit the outlet mall in OKC on the way home. It'll be a good shakedown run for the truck after going through the steering, adding the clutch switch bypass and hand throttle, and tightening the power steering connections. Oh yes, I have to also turn the Ewissions light off. It came on, yet again, while putt putting around moving the trailer. I'm sure it is P1506, meaning the engine RPM was higher than the ECU wanted it to be, which usually happens when I'm slowing down in a low gear and the inertia keeps spinning the engine. Haven't figured out how to prevent that. My only other suggestion it what you're already doing. Drive it! That's the best way to reduce the possibility of something stranding you on the trail! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 My only other suggestion it what you're already doing. Drive it! That's the best way to reduce the possibility of something stranding you on the trail! We took it to Ponca City and back three weeks ago for ~200 miles. Two weeks ago Steve/FoxFord33 and I took it to Stillwater and back to get that Mountaineer that he called an Explorer - again 200+ miles pulling the trailer. (The difference is significant in that the Merc came as AWD and the Ford didn't.) And next week's jaunt will push 500 miles. I think we might qualify for "driving it". But if that doesn't qualify I'll bet the ~1000 miles to Moab surely will. We plan to take the "middle" route, meaning out the Oklahoma panhandle to Clayton, NM for 433 miles and 7 hours and 10 minutes. The next day will be through Raton to Durango, which is 362 miles and 6 hours and 13 minutes, although we'll stop in Raton at the quilt shop. Then from Durango it is 158 miles and 2 hours & 45 minutes to Moab. So we hope to be there around lunch time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 We took it to Ponca City and back three weeks ago for ~200 miles. Two weeks ago Steve/FoxFord33 and I took it to Stillwater and back to get that Mountaineer that he called an Explorer - again 200+ miles pulling the trailer. (The difference is significant in that the Merc came as AWD and the Ford didn't.) And next week's jaunt will push 500 miles. I think we might qualify for "driving it". But if that doesn't qualify I'll bet the ~1000 miles to Moab surely will. We plan to take the "middle" route, meaning out the Oklahoma panhandle to Clayton, NM for 433 miles and 7 hours and 10 minutes. The next day will be through Raton to Durango, which is 362 miles and 6 hours and 13 minutes, although we'll stop in Raton at the quilt shop. Then from Durango it is 158 miles and 2 hours & 45 minutes to Moab. So we hope to be there around lunch time. I think the only part of that route that I've ever been on is the last 54 miles on highway 191. Bit it's all beautiful country out there, you really can't pick a bad route! We'll be leaving a couple days ahead of you, going through Omaha, Denver and (I think) I-70 to Glenwood Springs before heading south to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. We'll spend a day there, and then have a 3 - 4 hour drive to Moab on Sunday. That ought to leave plenty of time on Sunday to set up camp and walk through town (although I don't think we'll be able to get a shake as the Moab Diner is closed on Sundays). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 14 Author Share Posted April 14 I think the only part of that route that I've ever been on is the last 54 miles on highway 191. Bit it's all beautiful country out there, you really can't pick a bad route! We'll be leaving a couple days ahead of you, going through Omaha, Denver and (I think) I-70 to Glenwood Springs before heading south to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. We'll spend a day there, and then have a 3 - 4 hour drive to Moab on Sunday. That ought to leave plenty of time on Sunday to set up camp and walk through town (although I don't think we'll be able to get a shake as the Moab Diner is closed on Sundays). You'll be north of us at Black Canyon. My brother and I saw plenty of it when we went to Ouray with Big Blue a few years ago. They had US 50 closed at one point and routed us through there on the way out. But on the way back we got lucky and 50 was open again. Let's plan to meet up Sunday afternoon in Moab. If we can't get a shake maybe we can get something else. And yes, there isn't a bad route. We aren't in a hurry so will enjoy the drive from Raton to Durango, up over Wolf Creek Pass. Wolf Creek Pass Way up on the Great Divide Truckin' on down the other side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 14 Share Posted April 14 Ok, it is time to actually start on this project. And the first thing I'm told to do is to remove the knob off the shift lever. But I don't know how to do that, so I'm going to tag Shaun/salans7 'cause I think he knows. Having said that, if it isn't easy then I'll slit the bushing they provide and slip it on that way. Here's the knob and it is on a BW1345: Gary, it seems you were able to bypass removing the knob, but the only way I know to remove a splined shift knob is to heat it up to melt the glue holding it on. Sometimes you can get lucky in hot states since the high temperatures in the cab have long since melted the glue. The knobs down here tend to come right off without even trying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 14 Author Share Posted April 14 Gary, it seems you were able to bypass removing the knob, but the only way I know to remove a splined shift knob is to heat it up to melt the glue holding it on. Sometimes you can get lucky in hot states since the high temperatures in the cab have long since melted the glue. The knobs down here tend to come right off without even trying. Thanks, Shaun. I assumed it was splined and since pulling on it did nothing I decided to bypass that step. The hose appears to be working fine and was just about the right size because the split has closed up. But the ears of the clamp have closed up as well, so we are as tight as we are going to get. If it slips I may pull it off and put a turn of friction tape on the shifter before placing the hose back on. That will give it a bit more friction (can't come up with a better word), but I don't think I'll have to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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