Clutch Switch Bypass For Big Blue

[Gary Lewis]

We will all have FUN! :nabble_anim_jump:As for getting ready for the trip, I got the 10-second relay module & switch in as well as the project boxes. The module just barely fits in the project box, height-wise, but it does fit. :nabble_smiley_good:We are taking Big Blue on an outing tomorrow to test the new seats, but perhaps Friday I can power the relay up, make sure it works, and determine the voltage to the on-board LED. Then I can order a panel-mount LED to replace or parallel it and move on to get the panel ready to install the switch & LED. I'm planning to powder coat the panel to match the one the aftermarket gauges are in. And I need to order the white-on-clear label tape for my Brother label maker.Also, the hand throttle came in today, but that'll be discussed in another thread: Hand Throttle For Big Blue.

Got to test the 10 second delay module today, and it works perfectly - as you can see in the video below.

 

So now I need to find a 2V panel-mount LED to replace or parallel the one you can see on the board to tell the driver he can crank it then.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Got to test the 10 second delay module today, and it works perfectly - as you can see in the video below.

 

So now I need to find a 2V panel-mount LED to replace or parallel the one you can see on the board to tell the driver he can crank it then.

 

I found that I can't measure the on-board LED's current. So I took it off the board and stuck the lowest-current LED I could find in my stock and that pulled 4ma and just barely glowed. :nabble_smiley_cry:So I'm going to have to come up with a Plan B for an LED to indicate when the bypass is active.

[Gary Lewis]

I found that I can't measure the on-board LED's current. So I took it off the board and stuck the lowest-current LED I could find in my stock and that pulled 4ma and just barely glowed.

So I'm going to have to come up with a Plan B for an LED to indicate when the bypass is active.

Ok, here's Plan B. Please pick it apart.

The trigger circuit nor the coil are drawn in, but you'll get the gist. The LED will be energized with the key on, but won't have a ground until the relay closes and then it'll use the starter relay's coil and the ignition box as the ground. So it'll go out, or seriously dim, when the starter is engaged. But it'll glow bright red when the clutch safety is bypassed.

[Nothing Special]

Ok, here's Plan B. Please pick it apart.

The trigger circuit nor the coil are drawn in, but you'll get the gist. The LED will be energized with the key on, but won't have a ground until the relay closes and then it'll use the starter relay's coil and the ignition box as the ground. So it'll go out, or seriously dim, when the starter is engaged. But it'll glow bright red when the clutch safety is bypassed.

Sounds like it will work. but do you need the indicator? If it's going to go out in 10 seconds it's not like you need a reminder to turn it off. I suppose it could be nice to know that you actually pushed the button, and to know when it times out so you need to push it again (if you're not done with it yet). But those don't seem all that necessary either.

Or maybe you just need it because YOU just need it! That's OK too!

[Gary Lewis]

Sounds like it will work. but do you need the indicator? If it's going to go out in 10 seconds it's not like you need a reminder to turn it off. I suppose it could be nice to know that you actually pushed the button, and to know when it times out so you need to push it again (if you're not done with it yet). But those don't seem all that necessary either.

Or maybe you just need it because YOU just need it! That's OK too!

I think it is the latter - I want it.

Was playing with MyBB forum software the other day and it requires you to attach a picture to a post and then click a button to put the picture in the post you are writing. There's no feedback on the button and you can't see the text of the post at that point, so the first time I used it I clicked the button three times and had three copies in the post.

I like feedback. When I push a button I want to know that something happened. And the LED coming on will tell me that something happened. Plus it'll tell me if the thing timed out and I have to hit it again.

By the way, you can hold the button in as long as you want and the relay stays closed. But when you let up after more than 10 seconds the relay drops out. In other words, it is the first push that starts the timer.

And to document my thinking & calculating, the LED will drop about 2 volts, so the resistor needs to drop ~10v @ 30ma. R = E/I = 10/.03 = 333. But that's a non-standard number so it'll probably be a 330 ohm resistor. And that should be an orange/orange/brown resistor.

[85lebaront2]

Ok, here's Plan B. Please pick it apart.

The trigger circuit nor the coil are drawn in, but you'll get the gist. The LED will be energized with the key on, but won't have a ground until the relay closes and then it'll use the starter relay's coil and the ignition box as the ground. So it'll go out, or seriously dim, when the starter is engaged. But it'll glow bright red when the clutch safety is bypassed.

I realize this might be entirely too simple for you, but, I assume that the conditions under which you would need this would be (a) off road, probably rock or similar crawling (b) in 4WD low range and 1st gear in the ZF. © one hand on the wheel and the other on the shifter.

If it were me, I would put a key switch on the dash with a warning light reading "starter safety bypassed", this switch would be a double pole single throw normally off. One side would jumper the clutch safety, the other turn on the light. A push button switch on the shifter to activate the starter, sort of like the splitter control on the big rig transmissions. This way both hands stay where they are needed.

[Gary Lewis]

I realize this might be entirely too simple for you, but, I assume that the conditions under which you would need this would be (a) off road, probably rock or similar crawling (b) in 4WD low range and 1st gear in the ZF. © one hand on the wheel and the other on the shifter.

If it were me, I would put a key switch on the dash with a warning light reading "starter safety bypassed", this switch would be a double pole single throw normally off. One side would jumper the clutch safety, the other turn on the light. A push button switch on the shifter to activate the starter, sort of like the splitter control on the big rig transmissions. This way both hands stay where they are needed.

Thanks, Bill. You are right, those are the conditions in which I'd be wanting to bypass the clutch safety switch. And your setup would get the desired result of being able to crank w/o pushing in the clutch and having one hand on the wheel. (It would require one hand on the shift lever to be pushing the start switch.)

My approach accomplishes the same thing - left hand pushes the bypass button and then moves to the steering wheel while the right hand turns the key to Start. But yours is more robust as it is mechanical rather than electronic.

Thanks, but I'll continue on which my plan and fall back to something else if it doesn't work.

[85lebaront2]

Thanks, Bill. You are right, those are the conditions in which I'd be wanting to bypass the clutch safety switch. And your setup would get the desired result of being able to crank w/o pushing in the clutch and having one hand on the wheel. (It would require one hand on the shift lever to be pushing the start switch.)

My approach accomplishes the same thing - left hand pushes the bypass button and then moves to the steering wheel while the right hand turns the key to Start. But yours is more robust as it is mechanical rather than electronic.

Thanks, but I'll continue on which my plan and fall back to something else if it doesn't work.

I have long been a fan of the KISS theory, "Keep It Simple Stupid".

[Gary Lewis]

I have long been a fan of the KISS theory, "Keep It Simple Stupid".

Let's see, EFI with MAF & SEFI are KISS when compared to a carb? An E4OD is simpler than a C6?

I think it is too late for KISS on Big Blue.

[85lebaront2]

Let's see, EFI with MAF & SEFI are KISS when compared to a carb? An E4OD is simpler than a C6?

I think it is too late for KISS on Big Blue.

How many times did you change metering rods or jets in your AFBs or WCFBs? How many vacuum modulators have you replaced on C4, C6 or GM TH models.

Ok, answer this, you want to improve the shift quality on your C6, or maybe even a Torqueflite 727. What else does it affect? Now do this on an E4OD, 4R70W, 4L80E. All of these the line pressure can be altered without changing the shift points.

Think of an EEC-V as using AI to adjust things on the fly, like altitude changes. It is a lot simpler once set up.