viven44 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 I have wanted to convert my non-AC truck (the other 'Big Blue') and have been eyeing the vintage air system for a while. As you may have seen in my 78 Bronco thread, I have an 86 supercab parts truck that I bought wrecked which has a donor motor for my 78 Bronco. That same truck happens to have a fully functional R134a AC system (was still blowing cold when I got it!), and it has the same blue interior and literally everything I would possibly need. Cab swap is out of the question as my parts truck is a supercab. There is a wonderful lot of information at the thread below from Cory which I have read and will read again many times as I go through this https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Factory-AC-conversion-thoughts-tp47308.html Since I have a complete parts truck how easy of a conversion would this be ? Basically if I have both trucks with dash out, will it be as simple as moving parts from one to another ? I know the firewall will also need to be matched, but nothing some sheet metal work can't handle right ? I am asking this (probably far well in advance) because living on 0.25 acres, I have to pick and choose the vehicles to keep, and most of the supercab is parted out already, and all I have is the complete wiring harness, and a cab... I would like to get rid of the remnants but if the remnants give me an almost "free" AC conversion it would be well worth keeping it. The vintage air system isn't cheap by any means... The only parts I would need to find again would be the 460 AC brackets (As they would go into my 78 Bronco in the near future)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 If the target truck is non-A/C then it won't be easy as the firewall is different. You might want to read Dave/Fuzzface2's thread to see how he did it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 If the target truck is non-A/C then it won't be easy as the firewall is different. You might want to read Dave/Fuzzface2's thread to see how he did it. Thanks for the thread. I will go through all of it, but a quick glance lets me believe that is a perfect approach for a frame-off situation. In my case, its a running vehicle, I just need air conditioning. Yes the target truck is non-AC. The portion of the firewall that matters is the passenger side, correct ? If thats the case then its sheet metal work to match the openings. Reading Cory's thread, a template would have to be made to copy the AC firewall into the non-AC firewall. May involve welding, riveting, etc but appears to be not impossible. Now if that portion of the firewall isn't flat and requires some special contours and other features to be copied that would make it harder, and thats probably what i need to understand better. Edit: the parts truck's firewall could be cut as well, or at least a substantial portion of it for templating purposes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Thanks for the thread. I will go through all of it, but a quick glance lets me believe that is a perfect approach for a frame-off situation. In my case, its a running vehicle, I just need air conditioning. Yes the target truck is non-AC. The portion of the firewall that matters is the passenger side, correct ? If thats the case then its sheet metal work to match the openings. Reading Cory's thread, a template would have to be made to copy the AC firewall into the non-AC firewall. May involve welding, riveting, etc but appears to be not impossible. Now if that portion of the firewall isn't flat and requires some special contours and other features to be copied that would make it harder, and thats probably what i need to understand better. Edit: the parts truck's firewall could be cut as well, or at least a substantial portion of it for templating purposes aside from the firewall, it's a bolt on swap. apples to apples? Only if you have both apart. I have finished doing this on a cab right before fall when work changed my availability to work on my own truck. the cab is sitting on a dolly in the back waiting on me. I cut the ductwork section of the firewall out of the donor and used it as a template as earlier suggested and used bits of it also for minor rust repair. yes, its best in a cab only situation but not completely. with the fender removed, access to the hvac box is good. very reachable. fender removal is the biggest help and inner fender also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 aside from the firewall, it's a bolt on swap. apples to apples? Only if you have both apart. I have finished doing this on a cab right before fall when work changed my availability to work on my own truck. the cab is sitting on a dolly in the back waiting on me. I cut the ductwork section of the firewall out of the donor and used it as a template as earlier suggested and used bits of it also for minor rust repair. yes, its best in a cab only situation but not completely. with the fender removed, access to the hvac box is good. very reachable. fender removal is the biggest help and inner fender also. Thanks for the inputs! I am encouraged. This would be a nice project... I may need to buy some tools. All I have is a cheap harbor freight flux-core welder. What type of welder would be best in preparation for some metal work ? Something that can handle lighter gauge metal. Something under $300 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Thanks for the inputs! I am encouraged. This would be a nice project... I may need to buy some tools. All I have is a cheap harbor freight flux-core welder. What type of welder would be best in preparation for some metal work ? Something that can handle lighter gauge metal. Something under $300 for light sheet metal I have been generally happy with the Hobart flux core wire feed I keep in my home shop. its good enough to do most if not all body work and cheap enough to not be prohibitive. not under 300 though unless you find a used one. all of the big units we have are miller and that's certainly not cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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