Gsmblue Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 Finally started to tackle the Bronco roof. We hit 23F this morning, it is still dry thankfully. We will be up in the low 80s later in the week. I need to get this done! The current plan is: Remove all the rubber seals (done) Remove the windows as they are cracked. I am replacing them with a JY find they have a horrible gold tint! Scrape down all the seal surfaces Eraser wheel any last bits of rubber/glue. Wash it all down and give it a good scrub in and out. Tape off the areas that will have the new seals. Rustoleum hammer finish in white on the outside only, to match the current textured finish. Install new seals with contact adhesive. Does this sound reasonable? Should I do something else? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 Yes, but - what are you going to use to "wash it all down"? I like to use O'Reilly's brake cleaner to prep things. However, if you are doing this on the fiberglass top I'm not sure that's a good idea. Instead, maybe rubbing alcohol? Also, do the new seals not come with their own adhesive? 3M's weatherstrip adhesive would be my choice if they don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 Yes, but - what are you going to use to "wash it all down"? I like to use O'Reilly's brake cleaner to prep things. However, if you are doing this on the fiberglass top I'm not sure that's a good idea. Instead, maybe rubbing alcohol? Also, do the new seals not come with their own adhesive? 3M's weatherstrip adhesive would be my choice if they don't. I was going to use isopropyl for the fiberglass, after a good scrub with soap and water and a blue scotch pad. I think blue is the softest. No adhesive with the new seals, I will pop out and get some 3m, thanks! Today I will clean and hopefully paint, tomorrow should be seals and maybe windows.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 I was going to use isopropyl for the fiberglass, after a good scrub with soap and water and a blue scotch pad. I think blue is the softest. No adhesive with the new seals, I will pop out and get some 3m, thanks! Today I will clean and hopefully paint, tomorrow should be seals and maybe windows.. Sounds like a good plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 Sounds like a good plan. Had about 1/3 of an eraser wheel so I used it up. Need to go to the store and get another tomorrow. I am hoping I can get all the gunk off and pull the windows tomorrow.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Had about 1/3 of an eraser wheel so I used it up. Need to go to the store and get another tomorrow. I am hoping I can get all the gunk off and pull the windows tomorrow.. That's progress and, as Jim says, progress is good! Is the bottom that you are working on fiberglass or metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 That's progress and, as Jim says, progress is good! Is the bottom that you are working on fiberglass or metal? All about progress, take a big project and break it up into small projects... It is fiberglass for sure. Looking forward to getting it spiffed up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 ...they have a horrible gold tint!I like those windows because they keep more heat OUT. But if you're getting "UP" to 23°F...Wash it all down...At 23°F???Install new seals with contact adhesive.I'd use either weatherstrip adhesive, or E6000.Should I do something else?The window gaskets don't use adhesive, but they & the non-adhered surfaces of all the others need silicone lubricant or grease to keep them pliable, and to prevent them from sticking to the paint. It also helps them seal because they can relax into position sooner. This photo album describes R&Ring the camper & windows: https://supermotors.net/getfile/72080/thumbnail/side-remove-2.jpgIs the bottom that you are working on fiberglass or metal?The only metal in '78-91 Bronco campers is the tiny "roll bar" in the rear arch, shown in this & the NEXT few pics: https://supermotors.net/getfile/316405/thumbnail/rollbar1.jpg '92-96s have a full steel cage inside the fiberglass, visible at the rear mounting bolts, and those at the top front outboard. It passes above the windows to reinforce the rear shoulder belts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 All about progress, take a big project and break it up into small projects... It is fiberglass for sure. Looking forward to getting it spiffed up! Yes - step by step you can accomplish almost anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 ...they have a horrible gold tint!I like those windows because they keep more heat OUT. But if you're getting "UP" to 23°F...Wash it all down...At 23°F???Install new seals with contact adhesive.I'd use either weatherstrip adhesive, or E6000.Should I do something else?The window gaskets don't use adhesive, but they & the non-adhered surfaces of all the others need silicone lubricant or grease to keep them pliable, and to prevent them from sticking to the paint. It also helps them seal because they can relax into position sooner. This photo album describes R&Ring the camper & windows: https://supermotors.net/getfile/72080/thumbnail/side-remove-2.jpgIs the bottom that you are working on fiberglass or metal?The only metal in '78-91 Bronco campers is the tiny "roll bar" in the rear arch, shown in this & the NEXT few pics: https://supermotors.net/getfile/316405/thumbnail/rollbar1.jpg '92-96s have a full steel cage inside the fiberglass, visible at the rear mounting bolts, and those at the top front outboard. It passes above the windows to reinforce the rear shoulder belts. Thanks Steve! Overnight low was 23, will hit a high of 80 later this week, so still got some good weather for painting etc.. One side window is cracked so I got a second roof (beige with roof bar mounts that I don’t like) from the JY for $100 with good glass. I will swap both side windows out as the “new” glass has a slight mirror tint applied and I want them to match. I will see how it looks but may re do the tint later for a more standard black tint, I have silicone spray and weather strip adhesive at the ready, just need another eraser wheel to finish the de gunking... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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