85lebaront2 Posted July 28, 2023 Share Posted July 28, 2023 Got the file, Bill. Thanks. Interesting. The part number for the relay I posted above is 0 332 019 150. And that catalog says the maximum normally-open resistive load is 40A in spite of the relay itself showing 30A. I’m thinking I should add that document to the site. Thoughts? It might not be a bad idea as just about anything with a relay uses them. The PDC I used in the konvertible has 4 of the big ones and a bunch of the smaller ones. My power seat update uses 6 smaller ones under the seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 29, 2023 Share Posted July 29, 2023 It might not be a bad idea as just about anything with a relay uses them. The PDC I used in the konvertible has 4 of the big ones and a bunch of the smaller ones. My power seat update uses 6 smaller ones under the seat. Done: Documentation/Electrical/Relays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.Jett Posted August 5, 2023 Author Share Posted August 5, 2023 Gary, FWIW, Bosch lists the NO contact (87) at 40 amps, NC (87a) at 30 amps. In dealing with Lucas equipment, they released a "Constant Energy" replacement for the old Opus (Oscillating Pick Up System) that is a small aluminum box with GM HEI module in it. There was no need for any wiring change other than eliminating the ballast resistor when replacing the Opus system. It came with a new distributor with what appeared to be a Chrysler magnetic pickup and the HEI module in a nice case that was installed under the coil using longer bolts. I would not be surprised if a DS-II distributor would trigger the HEI module and a later TFI coil would work. The smaller GM engines used an external coil HEI as there wasn't room for the huge cap and coil assembly. These also didn't have the huge power feed wire which leads me to believe that the coil is the power hog. Bill, this is what I found when I removed tape and sorted wires. The wire that goes thru firewall, goes to a relay with white/lb and comes out white/lb to switch? Red wire is not hooked up. Got photos out of order. I don’t know how it even works, but it runs good. The white/lb in the fender harness goes thru firewall at drivers side of master cylinder. Which wires do I delete? I know it’s a loaded question, when and if you have the time, please walk me through it. Thank You CJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 6, 2023 Share Posted August 6, 2023 Bill, this is what I found when I removed tape and sorted wires. The wire that goes thru firewall, goes to a relay with white/lb and comes out white/lb to switch? Red wire is not hooked up. Got photos out of order. I don’t know how it even works, but it runs good. The white/lb in the fender harness goes thru firewall at drivers side of master cylinder. Which wires do I delete? I know it’s a loaded question, when and if you have the time, please walk me through it. Thank You CJ What you need is this: Coming out of your ignition switch are two ignition feed wires, a brown with a pink from terminal I2 and a red with light green from terminal I1. When turning on the ignition, when you reach the run position, terminal I1 is connected to the battery, turning the key further opens that connection and connects terminal I2 to the battery. Inside the harness is a resistance wire, 1.1 +/- .05 ohm wire. For the purpose of operating a relay, I do not believe it will make much if any difference. From a splice in the harness, a white with light blue hash wire is fed from terminal I1 when in run and the red with light green is powered in start. Ford used the resistor for the DS-II and bypassed it in the TFI harness. If the old factory coil connector is still there it will have a red/light green and white/light blue hash wire. This is a good place to pick up the trigger for a relay and the stud on the front side of the driver's firewall is a large battery feed that can be used to connect to pin 30 of the Bosch relay with pin 87 powering the HEI system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.Jett Posted August 6, 2023 Author Share Posted August 6, 2023 What you need is this: Coming out of your ignition switch are two ignition feed wires, a brown with a pink from terminal I2 and a red with light green from terminal I1. When turning on the ignition, when you reach the run position, terminal I1 is connected to the battery, turning the key further opens that connection and connects terminal I2 to the battery. Inside the harness is a resistance wire, 1.1 +/- .05 ohm wire. For the purpose of operating a relay, I do not believe it will make much if any difference. From a splice in the harness, a white with light blue hash wire is fed from terminal I1 when in run and the red with light green is powered in start. Ford used the resistor for the DS-II and bypassed it in the TFI harness. If the old factory coil connector is still there it will have a red/light green and white/light blue hash wire. This is a good place to pick up the trigger for a relay and the stud on the front side of the driver's firewall is a large battery feed that can be used to connect to pin 30 of the Bosch relay with pin 87 powering the HEI system. Bill, the existing relay, under dash, has a 10 or 12ga yellow wire to batt+ on starter relay with fusible link, and a black wire to batt - . There is also a white/lb to relay that makes a loop thru firewall on each side of master cyl. This wire has insulation removed and a white/lb wire twisted on and run to Dist. There is also a brown wire, didn’t see any pink, twisted at same place and run thru firewall. I will have to remove fuse box to chase it down. (See photos) Will install new relay and use the yellow wire w/30a fuse to pin 30 - The black wire will go to pin 86 - New red 12ga wire to pin 87 - white/lb to pin 85 - Does this brown wire go to pin 85 also? Thanks CJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.Jett Posted August 12, 2023 Author Share Posted August 12, 2023 Bill, the existing relay, under dash, has a 10 or 12ga yellow wire to batt+ on starter relay with fusible link, and a black wire to batt - . There is also a white/lb to relay that makes a loop thru firewall on each side of master cyl. This wire has insulation removed and a white/lb wire twisted on and run to Dist. There is also a brown wire, didn’t see any pink, twisted at same place and run thru firewall. I will have to remove fuse box to chase it down. (See photos) Will install new relay and use the yellow wire w/30a fuse to pin 30 - The black wire will go to pin 86 - New red 12ga wire to pin 87 - white/lb to pin 85 - Does this brown wire go to pin 85 also? Thanks CJ Bill, would you check my Aug 6 post? Thanks CJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 12, 2023 Share Posted August 12, 2023 Bill, the existing relay, under dash, has a 10 or 12ga yellow wire to batt+ on starter relay with fusible link, and a black wire to batt - . There is also a white/lb to relay that makes a loop thru firewall on each side of master cyl. This wire has insulation removed and a white/lb wire twisted on and run to Dist. There is also a brown wire, didn’t see any pink, twisted at same place and run thru firewall. I will have to remove fuse box to chase it down. (See photos) Will install new relay and use the yellow wire w/30a fuse to pin 30 - The black wire will go to pin 86 - New red 12ga wire to pin 87 - white/lb to pin 85 - Does this brown wire go to pin 85 also? Thanks CJ From your description it sounds like it is wired to power the relay in "start" and "run" and the relay is providing a low resistance feed to the HEI system. Other than the lack of a shell on the relay and the twist connections it sounds like what I would do to power an HEI system reliably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.Jett Posted August 12, 2023 Author Share Posted August 12, 2023 From your description it sounds like it is wired to power the relay in "start" and "run" and the relay is providing a low resistance feed to the HEI system. Other than the lack of a shell on the relay and the twist connections it sounds like what I would do to power an HEI system reliably. Thanks Bill, that’s the way I will go, just needed your opinion. CJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.Jett Posted August 25, 2023 Author Share Posted August 25, 2023 Thanks Bill, that’s the way I will go, just needed your opinion. CJ Bill, finally got it wired up. I swear it runs better and cranks great. “Lord Mr. Ford” power steering reservoir started leaking. 38 yr old o’rings will be replaced tomorrow. CJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 25, 2023 Share Posted August 25, 2023 Bill, finally got it wired up. I swear it runs better and cranks great. “Lord Mr. Ford” power steering reservoir started leaking. 38 yr old o’rings will be replaced tomorrow. CJ Sounds good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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